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  #31  
Old 03-15-2013, 08:45 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is offline
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I'm still thinking a safety switch. I have a box of little bypass pigtails I've made to bypass all the switches at once and eliminate the possibility.
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  #32  
Old 03-15-2013, 10:04 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Remove 1 of the square plastic relays...
Match it up at the autoparts store..
One at a time...Swap it out with each of the relays....
When mine don't start...usually a relay..
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  #33  
Old 03-15-2013, 10:37 PM
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Landrus2 Landrus2 is offline
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Hey birddseedd. By-pass your safety switch (on the PTO) and attempt to restart that way.
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  #34  
Old 03-15-2013, 11:50 PM
birddseedd birddseedd is offline
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Ok,,,,, i am confused. really, really confused.....

There are 2 wires to the solenoid, the constant 12v that powers it and the starter. And the starter/activator wire that simply completes the relay circuit when you turn the key. both wires measure well over 12v.........

how the heck can 12v go to the solenoid and the solenoid not work. if i jump the constant post to the activator post (iv no idea what the correct term is) it will start up, engine fires up and we are good to go. but, with the ignition system supplying the 12.38v to that terminal, nothing happens.....

my only conclusion is it has the voltage, but does not have any amprage. how? since i am detecting over 12v on the wire that means my neutral safety switches are all working? if any of them was not working there would be no closed circut and i would see 0v as i do before try to crank the engine.

i am perplexed. this is why i hate electrical.

Last edited by birddseedd; 03-15-2013 at 11:50 PM. Reason: grammer
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  #35  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:01 AM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is offline
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This is really rough via net. Can you run a solenoid jumper wire from the correct terminal on the switch (use heavy guage). You have not replaced the switch correct? Double checked all the fuses? Bypassed switches and relays?
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  #36  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:08 AM
birddseedd birddseedd is offline
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Tomorrow afternoon i will get the switch off and run a wire and see what happens. have not replaced it. have checked all the fuses i know about.
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  #37  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:26 AM
Wright Lawn Wright Lawn is offline
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I was gonna suggest swapping out the solenoid. I have a 2011 G3 Toro 74951 with 800 hrs. and have had nothing but problems from the day I bought it. Seems they're not manufactured to commercial grade. Was hoping to buy an eXmark this fall, but looks like I'll need to buy now. Toro is in the shop as much as in use. Don't get me wrong, I have a 21" Toro recycler that will not stop, but the zero turn machines seem to be more for homeowners imho.
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  #38  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:34 AM
birddseedd birddseedd is offline
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i prefer scag. newest one has a transmission and goes 18 mph. its crazy. but they are built tough. as far as my solenoid i got that tested it works. and if i run power directly from teh battery to the solenoid the engine starts right up.

something in the ignition system has to be lowering the amps to the solenoid.
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  #39  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:45 AM
Wright Lawn Wright Lawn is offline
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Scag is a good machine but, I'm a big guy and prefer the legroom of eXmark.
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  #40  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:48 AM
birddseedd birddseedd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wright Lawn View Post
Scag is a good machine but, I'm a big guy and prefer the legroom of eXmark.
Givem another look next time ur in the market. the cheetah model is pretty big.
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