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  #21  
Old 03-15-2013, 12:15 PM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Smallaxe, Last APS where put down mid October to early November. 20-7-14 slow release synthetic fert.

In marketing I scare folks off in telling. them how a clock.is made vs what.time it is or how.to tell the time...?

Thanks for shedding some light on this.

I have one fert client I used a bridge product on his lawn and he bags every other mowing. It worked okay but he also mows to short.

I'm just going to bundle services and sign up clients for monthly plans for those I don't mow for. This way tweaks and inputs can be made as needed, I can keep tabs on issues etc.
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  #22  
Old 03-15-2013, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Substantiate this statement given it couldn't be anymore wrong.
Not much point in putting down more expensive organic based fert and loose a percentage of it when the client bag mows the next day after watering.

Honestly I don't want.to.waste my time putting.down synthetic fert and have do this either.
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  #23  
Old 03-15-2013, 12:29 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
Smallaxe, Last APS where put down mid October to early November. 20-7-14 slow release synthetic fert.... ...I'm just going to bundle services and sign up clients for monthly plans for those I don't mow for. This way tweaks and inputs can be made as needed, I can keep tabs on issues etc.
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If you get a chance to review that article,,, you may wish to eliminate the applicatioin previous to your last one,,, because your last app is the most important...
good article,,, check it out...
Good Luck...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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  #24  
Old 03-15-2013, 12:32 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
Not much point in putting down more expensive organic based fert and loose a percentage of it when the client bag mows the next day after watering.
Not a good reason. If the client cannot follow instructions or mow at an appropriate height, then that is their loss, assuming their will even be a loss to begin with.
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  #25  
Old 03-15-2013, 01:30 PM
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Not a good reason. If the client cannot follow instructions or mow at an appropriate height, then that is their loss, assuming their will even be a loss to begin with.
Okay fair enough are most or all of your clients on board with proper mowing heights and need specific watering?

All or most of your lawn clients on a organic and/or bridge semi organic plan?
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  #26  
Old 03-15-2013, 02:12 PM
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The biggest problem with organics is the average customer dosnt have the paitiance to wait for the results.
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  #27  
Old 03-15-2013, 03:26 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
Okay fair enough are most or all of your clients on board with proper mowing heights and need specific watering?

All or most of your lawn clients on a organic and/or bridge semi organic plan?
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yes, yes, yes.
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  #28  
Old 03-15-2013, 08:03 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by AI Inc View Post
The biggest problem with organics is the average customer dosnt have the paitiance to wait for the results.
The biggest point about a bridge program is for the soil to actually increase fertility and for the turf to survive beyond coddling the layer of living thatch...

It is pure folly for a client to "be patient" while his lawn turns to chaos... unecessary and unprofessional...

to let you in on a little secret, whenever some hotdog who kows all about "OrganicLawns" and plays the 'Be Patient Card',,, I tell the victim that it is a foolish and unnecessary Rippoff....

Then I explain how a "Bridge Program " works...
and if they want I take them to the successful locations that prove the point...
I never say anything to the layperson, that cannot be demostrated by real life conditions...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #29  
Old 03-15-2013, 09:19 PM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Smallaxe,

You mentioned something about a low input lawn that is largely organic and affordable. Care to expound on how those are done...?

I have one account I mow bi-weekly sometimes tri-weekly in a rental infested area. It stays fairly green with zero inputs but fairly weedy. The client thinks I'm the best ever and I want to switch over to budget lower input lawn but over time get it up to speed. I'm willing to profit essentially nothing on this smaller the learn and tune my lawn trainer skills. The lawn.is on my route and has good sun and no fence to hassle with. Loads of clover and other weeds but it does green up pretty well. I plan testing various herbicides on different sections. Before and after pics etc.

Your thoughts...?
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  #30  
Old 03-16-2013, 10:49 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Evidently you have some deep rooted grass that is living in some pretty fertile soil having decent tilth... The thing about Milorganite or other organic based ferts is whether or not there is an active soil microbrial system ready to rot away at the fertilizers on a timely and consistant basis... If it stays cool or dry after application you may not notice any color change for weeks...
Compost of course is the best beginning for organic lawn care and if you want to experiment,,, compost is a great one to experiment with... I've always thought about giving cormeal a try, but Milorganite is so handy and the iron really makes the grass attractive...
Anyways,,, once the nutrients start cycling and the soil structure expands fertility deeper into the ground, there should never be an issue with thatch and you won't need a full pound of N for each of the 3 apps...

Check out the soil's tilth and texture as it sounds like some decent stuff... are you in corn country???
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