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  #81  
Old 06-08-2013, 02:02 AM
lawnsaspire lawnsaspire is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Quincy, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansoph View Post
Get the turfmaster blades they are higher lift.

The timed blades are keyed at the blade and timed with a cogged belt. I sheaared a blade washer, the blades flanked, let off the BBC, figured out the problem, got new washer. All good, no real issues, blades still measure put on the garage floor.
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what do you mean by keyed at the blade? i don't understand your description of the repair you did? the blade washer, yes , but keyed?
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  #82  
Old 06-08-2013, 07:13 AM
sjessen sjessen is online now
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Location: Knoxville, Tn
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My Timemaster has some belt slap when engaging the blades/heavy cutting. Anyone know how to to adjust the idler?
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  #83  
Old 06-08-2013, 08:16 AM
CuttingEdge LawnCare's Avatar
CuttingEdge LawnCare CuttingEdge LawnCare is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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The toro and exmark are virtually the same!
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  #84  
Old 06-09-2013, 12:54 PM
Exact Rototilling's Avatar
Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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On the TimeMaster and TurfMaster there is an aluminum blade key/washer that retains and aligns the blade to the spindle. If this is accidentally installed incorrectly it can result in what is described.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lawnsaspire View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by stansoph View Post
Get the turfmaster blades they are higher lift.

The timed blades are keyed at the blade and timed with a cogged belt. I sheaared a blade washer, the blades flanked, let off the BBC, figured out the problem, got new washer. All good, no real issues, blades still measure put on the garage floor.
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what do you mean by keyed at the blade? i don't understand your description of the repair you did? the blade washer, yes , but keyed?
__________________

I'd Rather Be Flying
Always Looking for Greener Grass
Always Looking for Better Mower Blades ™
Say "YES" to higher mowing heights.
...
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  #85  
Old 06-09-2013, 01:21 PM
stansoph stansoph is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjessen View Post
My Timemaster has some belt slap when engaging the blades/heavy cutting. Anyone know how to to adjust the idler?
Remove front lower cowl cover. You will see the idler pulley. Find the cable. Adjust the cable sleeve similar to the drive adj cable. This should take out a bit of slop. If you tighten the cable too much the BBC brake shoe will not make contact with the spindle pulley to stop the blades when they are disengaged.

I have watched the pulley in action and its a pretty violent movement when blades are engaged. I have been able to reduce some slop but not eliminate the contact from the pulley on the cover cowling. It is a cowling size and fit issue more than a pulley problems. I really don't think it is worth the time and effort to adjust the cable. YMMV.

Other than it being annoying, I don't feel it is an issue for the long term health of the machine.

It does make me a bit miffed that they should have designed it a bit better to avoid this; especially on a new, expensive mower.

If it was me I would leave it.
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  #86  
Old 06-09-2013, 02:46 PM
sjessen sjessen is online now
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Knoxville, Tn
Posts: 1,639
Quote:
Originally Posted by stansoph View Post
Remove front lower cowl cover. You will see the idler pulley. Find the cable. Adjust the cable sleeve similar to the drive adj cable. This should take out a bit of slop. If you tighten the cable too much the BBC brake shoe will not make contact with the spindle pulley to stop the blades when they are disengaged.

I have watched the pulley in action and its a pretty violent movement when blades are engaged. I have been able to reduce some slop but not eliminate the contact from the pulley on the cover cowling. It is a cowling size and fit issue more than a pulley problems. I really don't think it is worth the time and effort to adjust the cable. YMMV.

Other than it being annoying, I don't feel it is an issue for the long term health of the machine.

It does make me a bit miffed that they should have designed it a bit better to avoid this; especially on a new, expensive mower.

If it was me I would leave it.
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Thanks!

Will do as you suggest.
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  #87  
Old 06-10-2013, 09:58 PM
keith.heckman keith.heckman is offline
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I had the Timemaster 30 for 1 year and 1 day. Had to get rid of it because it didn't have the power to cut my Zoysia. I could only cut it over 2.5", but couldn't get it down to 1.75 or 2" where it needed to be. I was interested to know if the commercial Kawasaki 180 would be any better. One of the local dealers told me that it was still only a 6.5 hp motor and probably wont do any better than the timemaster. I ended up buying a Toro Commercial 36" WB. Unfortunately that was a jump from $1,000.00 to $4150.00. OUCHHHHHHHHHH! But at least it works and cuts like a charm......
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  #88  
Old 06-11-2013, 08:49 AM
Caddyshack Lawn Care Caddyshack Lawn Care is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Columbia MO
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I sold the ExMark 32" and bought a Timemaster yesterday. That was a rude awakening. It works wonderfully as long as I'm on perfectly flat ground. The damned thing won't even pull itself up a slight incline though. I can't imagine how much I'm going to hate it once it has a few hours on it.
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  #89  
Old 06-11-2013, 01:32 PM
Platinum2 Platinum2 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: East Lansing, MI
Posts: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by keith.heckman View Post
I had the Timemaster 30 for 1 year and 1 day. Had to get rid of it because it didn't have the power to cut my Zoysia. I could only cut it over 2.5", but couldn't get it down to 1.75 or 2" where it needed to be. I was interested to know if the commercial Kawasaki 180 would be any better. One of the local dealers told me that it was still only a 6.5 hp motor and probably wont do any better than the timemaster. I ended up buying a Toro Commercial 36" WB. Unfortunately that was a jump from $1,000.00 to $4150.00. OUCHHHHHHHHHH! But at least it works and cuts like a charm......
My sentiments exactly. My Timewaster has no power. The Kawasaki engine is for longevity/durability only. It actually makes less power than the B&S. You can look at the power curves from each manufacturer and verify for yourself by visiting their websites. I am a homeowner and can't ditch my Timewaster fast enough.

GW
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  #90  
Old 06-11-2013, 01:53 PM
Platinum2 Platinum2 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: East Lansing, MI
Posts: 42
The links are here:

Kawasaki FJ180V KAI: http://www.kawasaki-engines.eu/engin...es/fj180v-kai/

B&S Professional 875: http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocum...DvrS8lFix2.pdf

To be fair, the Kawasaki is net where the B&S is gross, but in the end, they are probably virtually the same. The B&S might even edge out the Kawasaki due to 5% more engine displacement.

GW
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