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#11
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A large swale or berm would definately be noticeable, but you may be able to topdress critical areas with sand 1" at a time and slow the flow without affecting the existing grass at all...
If she is willing to lightly rake back the sand into correct positioning after each downpour, this would absolutely be her least expensive option... after a couple of downpours and a couple of additions and modifications you should be able to know exactly what it will take... BTW, she's purely misguided as to the ground being so wet that grass don't grow, while at the same time saying it doesn't really make puddles, just rivers... Both statement CANNOT be true at the same time... so expect to go visit during a cloudburst and see for yourself what is going on... I once drained a 3 acre woods during a 2 day Spring rain with a rake and shovel... while the valleys are noticeable they are not an issue for driving or walking, and zero puddles where we have placed good topsoil...
__________________
* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#12
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If the problem is the downspouts, the move the water from the downspouts to a less offensive area. Coordinate with the neighbor to do the same. If you need to, dump the water into a drywell.
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#13
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Downspouts are a big contributer to the problem yes... not solely the problem.. a swale may be the answer. This yard will be a complete renovation as stumps will b removed, regrade, and water drainage option I go with...along with sod... that being said what your guys thoughts on taking out 3" of topsoil(basically clay here) and bringing in fill sand.to help absorb the water below the surface then sod over the top.... id like to eliminate as much water on top if the ground as possible..
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#14
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If you're going through all of that then by all means raise the level and grade to the most convenient spot... Bring in Compost along with your fill sand and be sure and till it in good, like mixing up a cake batter... I guarantee no adobe or concrete will be form, with new OM added to the mix...
__________________
* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#15
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BTW, remember the water problem is solved once you raise the grade so I wouldn't focus on that as a major consideration any more... consider what yourgrass needs for decent growth environment next...
__________________
* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#16
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...... Bad idea.
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#17
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And...see a lawyer. Neighbors are not allowed to channel their water onto your property. Only natural drainage is allowed in most jurisdictions. You probably should subcontract the drainage to a professional drainage firm. They have the trenching equipment and knowledge. Surveyer's transit. Laser leveling equipment.
http://www.lawguru.com/legal-questio...door-97618823/ |
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#18
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Illegal to divert water off your property onto your neighbors. So if she has a property below street grade and lower then her neighbors she is stuck in swamp land. Even dry wells will fill up and over flow.
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#19
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Well if the neighbors Downspouts r causing or at least adding to this issue...wouldn't that water coning outta here Downspouts b "their" water? I wouldn't b pushing hers onto there property... id simply bring hers up to grade some while collecting all her water in Downspouts And piping them off the back of the property.... why would bringing fill sand.in and.mixing it not be a good idea? Elaborate please, I'm not sure a drywell would work in his situation either as the volume of water would overcome the capacity. It would have to be huge.. not practical. We need to get the water of the ground as quick as possible
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