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  #11  
Old 08-09-2009, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by flyingsquirrel View Post
A file is about: $1
File handle about: $1-$2
Practice is free
Once you are good at it: Priceless

The best way to sharpen a saw for the money. You dont have to take the chain off and it is quick. Also unless you carry your grinder out in the field with you what are you gonna do when your saw gets dull. A file is small, compact and most important, PORTABLE.
You all can burn me at the stake now. I guess Im just old fashioned
Pretty much the only way I know how. I can't imagine using anything else in the woods anyway. Have an oregon jig at home to straighten the teeth even every now and then.
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  #12  
Old 08-18-2009, 07:09 PM
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I have been hand filing for nearly 14 years. I dont even own a grinder. We have 2 at work and I refuse to use them. I get better quality with a file and a good eye.
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  #13  
Old 02-18-2010, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by flyingsquirrel View Post
I have been hand filing for nearly 14 years. I dont even own a grinder. We have 2 at work and I refuse to use them. I get better quality with a file and a good eye.
I have to agree with you. Some guys have that knack, of doing a good job with a file, free hand, while others can't do it to save their own life. I for one, am that way, I can't sharpen with a file, free hand.
Once my chain starts getting dull, I swap it out, with a sharp one, and keep on cutting. I do my chain sharpening, at the end of the day.
I used to use an Oregon Filing Guide, for a lot of years, till I got my bench grinder, about 7 or 8 years ago. Never looked at a file ever since.
Trick I learned is, not to put too much down preasure on the motor assembly, use gentle up and down movements, with the power head, with a little more down, with every pass, that way the cutter won't get too hot, and loose it's temper.
Took me a few scrap chains (that didn't fit any of my chain saws, or were almost out of chain life), to practice with the grinder, to find that out.
When I set up the grinder to do a chain, I slide the chain, till it touches the grinder wheel, with the power head pulled down, and then set the back stop, a little bit a head, and try a cutter.
If I can feel, a slight wired edge, with the tip of my thumb nail, while sliding it along the length of the cutter, I know that the chain, is going to be sharp.
My bench grinder is a Tecomec FL-136 (Jolly Bench Grinder), (wish I would have spent the extra $50.00, for the Super Jolly Bench Grinder, because of the automatic lock), but is still a good out fit.
It is built, in the same factory, in Italy) as the Oregon grinders, and a bit cheaper as well, than the Oregon.
One thing I did find, if I didn't clean my chains prior to sharpening, my grinding wheel would get gummed up, with oil, and saw dust, from the chain, and I'd have to do more dressing of the wheel.
I toss them into a tub of oven cleaner, for about an hour or two, place them on a board, with a nail, use a scrub brush for doing vegetables, scrub them down, both sides with hot soapy water, rinse them in the hot soapy water, and in clean water
Once they are dry, I sharpen them, and I dip them in bar oil, let them soak for a few minutes, and hang them up on a nail, to drip off the extra bar oil.
As for time doing the sharpening, I can sharpen 8 20" chains, in an hour, as with the filing guide, I could do 4 20" chains in an hour, once I had everything set up, per chain, with both the filing guide, and the grinder.
For doing the chain rakers, I have to do one side at a time. If I don't, I get uneven heights, from side to side. I do all my chain rakers, at 0.025".
I put a straight edge, across two cutters, on the same side, measure with a feller gauge, and get the power head set at that height, do that side, and repeat the set up, for the other side of the chain. Hope this helps a bit. Bruce.
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  #14  
Old 03-07-2010, 06:27 PM
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oregon

I have an Oregon grinder that I use for chains that get rocked. I learned to hand file and do that primarily but in never hurts to buzz them with the grinder to get things back in the ballpark relatively quickly and then "finish" with a hand file. Grinders are like everything else...a cheap one will give cheap results.
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2010, 10:17 PM
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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7449_200327449



I have one of these. works great! quick and easy. makes me want to sharpen chains. I do the same thing you said tree&turf, i sharpen a few chains here and there to make a few bucks when people ask. hope this answers your ORIGINAL question:dancing:
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  #16  
Old 05-12-2010, 11:09 PM
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WoodsFire knows what he is talking about.
If time is "of the essence", drop the file and step into the 21'st century.
If you have absolutely nothing else better to do with your time, file away.
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  #17  
Old 05-15-2010, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by westvirginiacountryboy View Post
WoodsFire knows what he is talking about.
If time is "of the essence", drop the file and step into the 21'st century.
If you have absolutely nothing else better to do with your time, file away.
I dont know. I can touch up my 20" 3/8 chain in five minutes and fix a completely wrecked chain (if fixable) in less than 15 with a good file. Thats quicker than I can take the chain off, grind it and put the chain back on. And the filed saw I think cuts better than the ground one. But thats just me.
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  #18  
Old 05-15-2010, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by flyingsquirrel View Post
I dont know. I can touch up my 20" 3/8 chain in five minutes and fix a completely wrecked chain (if fixable) in less than 15 with a good file. Thats quicker than I can take the chain off, grind it and put the chain back on. And the filed saw I think cuts better than the ground one. But thats just me.

Some guys can work magic with a file, not saying that it can't be done, if you know how to hold the file properly, and can get everything done equal, but others like myself included, can't file to save ones life, and have to resort to a grinder, or a filing jig of some kind. Bruce
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  #19  
Old 05-15-2010, 11:42 PM
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It all boils down to personal preference, (just like everything else). When my crew is out gettin' jiggy wit' it, I swap chains at the end of every cord, whether it needs it or not. I'm not cutting wood for entertainment, it's a necesity. Efficency is key to making money in the woods, and it's far more efficienct to swap'em during the day and grind'em once I get back to the house in the evenings. I will concied that no, and I mean NO automation could ever replace hand craftsmanship, (just look at Detroit). I remember setting on the tailgate of my 1977 F250 hand sharpening chains with my late father, they were some of the best times of my life, but my son is only 2 now, and if that saw ain't cuttin' I'm going broke.
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  #20  
Old 04-12-2011, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by flyingsquirrel View Post
A rookie will be a rookie forever unless they practice. If you were not allowed to climb once in a while you would have never got good a climbing. Same thing with filing a saw by hand. Learn the right way to do so, practice, practice, practice and then maybe you dont have to carry all that extra chain around with you.
Ive used the silvey grinders and dont like them UNLESS the chain is completely wrecked (which is not very often). They take tooooooo long, they do heat and harden the chain (maybe not as much as other grinders), and Im never happy with the outcome (not very sharp).
Next time you get a chance take a saw take the chain off sharpen it and put it back on. How long does it take you to do this?
It takes me 4 minutes for a 20" yes I timed myself , and they cut good, take some extra chains out to the woods. Nothing wrong with filing either and I'll agree a GOOD file job will cut a bit better than a good grind job but when I grind the cut as good or better than new. How long does a good file job take on a 20" chain either a .325 or full comp 3/8 ? Steve
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