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  #21  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:56 AM
Stillwater Stillwater is offline
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Yep, we do but coping has more supported mass over a paver on a edge of a slab
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  #22  
Old 03-25-2013, 05:12 PM
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DVS Hardscaper DVS Hardscaper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wurkn with amish View Post
yet we step on "glued" retaining wall coping used as treads all the time........
Absolutely.

And step treads are not on ground level neither




.
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  #23  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:44 PM
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jbailey52 jbailey52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillwater View Post
Yep, we do but coping has more supported mass over a paver on a edge of a slab
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When will the craziness end???!! A wall cap, or bullnose used as a stair tread is much more susceptible to popping off.... It's a see-saw for goodness sakes! (I just became an 82 year old woman for saying that)
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  #24  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:32 PM
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DVS Hardscaper DVS Hardscaper is offline
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Absolutely. That's my whole point. They pop off all the time. That's why I advise against gluing anything. But they glue
Back on easily

Cleaning off concrete to get glue to adhere is no more easier than drilling holes and dropping a spike in
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  #25  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:32 PM
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alldayrj alldayrj is online now
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This debate makes mortar look very attractive
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  #26  
Old 03-26-2013, 12:24 AM
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promower promower is offline
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Never had any prob with glue. We capped a wall last year and the customer decided they wanted a different cap. Two days later we couldnt pop them off with a sledge, or the chisel and hammer trick. Ended up using the chop saw in between the block and cap. Total PITA and big expense for the customer.
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  #27  
Old 03-26-2013, 12:41 AM
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DVS Hardscaper DVS Hardscaper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by promower View Post
Never had any prob with glue. We capped a wall last year and the customer decided they wanted a different cap. Two days later we couldnt pop them off with a sledge, or the chisel and hammer trick. Ended up using the chop saw in between the block and cap. Total PITA and big expense for the customer.
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Correct. Usually the block will break before the glue bond breaks.

If the block was wet or if the block was dirty when the glue was applied - then thats often when you will have problems.

But see, you folks keep going back to walls and steps. This topic regards *PATIOS*

With walls and steps you set the block dead level. With an existing concrete slab - there is often variation in levelness. The beauty of mortar is that you have a way to adjust the level of each and every paver or stone unit. The beauty of bedding sand is that it allows each and every paver to sit flush with one another. Whereas with *gluing* pavers to a pavement - your hands are tied behind your back, the pavers will only be as level as the slab is.

We usually simply remove the existing slab and install an aggregate base (as previously mentioned by others in this thread). Pool Decks - depending on some variables we'll leave the concrete in tact. Many folks want to keep a concrete slab as they think it will be expensive to demo the concrete. Which is usually not the case.

1) So you can set your pavers on a screeded sand bed, install your SnapEdge restraint with 10" gal. spikes drilled into the slab. The bedding sand will allow you to overcome unevenness in the slab, killing the need for buying thickker pavers for the outer border. Making the install a dream.

OR

2) You can go out and buy the thicker pavers. Scrub the dirt off the slab from the last 10 to 23 years so the adhesive will adhere to the slab, glue the pavers, and not have a way to adjust the levelness of the individual units, thus giving you an uneasy feeling about your quality of work. And remember - you can't glue the pavers to the existing concrete....until the water you used for cleaning the slab has dried

Your name is on the job. You wanna come back in 3 yrs to make repairs or you wanna leave knowing you'll never need to lay a finger on those pavers again? Drilling holes for the SnapEdge does not require cleaning of the slab and it does not require waiting for anything (water and / or adhesive) to dry
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  #28  
Old 03-26-2013, 12:49 AM
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Bru75 Bru75 is offline
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All this talk of "glue" makes me feel like I'm listening to a bunch of DIY'ers.
It's adhesive, and if you use the right adhesive you won't have a problem.
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  #29  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:54 AM
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DVS Hardscaper DVS Hardscaper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bru75 View Post
All this talk of "glue" makes me feel like I'm listening to a bunch of DIY'ers.
It's adhesive, and if you use the right adhesive you won't have a problem.
My proposals state "adhesive". But "glue" contains half the characters of "adhesive". On a forum I can type "glue" faster. Especially from a computer-phone. But instead of saying "computer phone" we say "smart phone", because "smart" has less characters. To type.

Bru - what town are you in? We have friends in Elkins and friends on the other side of the mountain.
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"It's You vs. You"

"People Throw Rocks At Things That Shine"


My Equipment Brag List:

-1 CAT hat
-16 pairs of Hanes socks (the Heavy Duty model), many with holes.
-12 pairs of underwear, ranging from Joe Boxers to Jockey, many are in need of replacement. (no more photo requests please)
-hundreds of t-shirts. Some w/ grease stains, some torn & tattered.
-7 pairs of jeans, ranging from Levis to Polo to GAP. 1/2 of them have holes in 'em.
-1 belt
-1 pair of old worn out Nike shoes.

Last edited by DVS Hardscaper; 03-26-2013 at 09:03 AM.
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  #30  
Old 03-26-2013, 09:08 AM
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Bru75 Bru75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVS Hardscaper View Post
"glue" contains half the characters of "adhesive". I can type "glue" faster. Especially from a computer-phone. But instead of saying "computer phone" we say "smart phone", because "smart" has less characters. To type.

Bru - what town are you in? We have friends in Elkins and friends on the other side of the mountain.
You have a point, but to me it's like when people say cement when they really mean mortar. Or bid when they should say price.

I'm near Luray, VA. Small town about 20 mi. north of Harrisonburg.
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