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  #11  
Old 03-23-2013, 07:50 PM
YardBoss Lawncare's Avatar
YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
That would work very well. Actually, by having the ball valve and using the right size orifice on the jet agitator, you can run the agitator constantly. Of course, running it at full open when you are trying to get that tank mixed. WG products need constant agitation while spraying. If I have a tank mix that was sitting, I also spray whatever was in the hose back into the tank for several minutes before putting it on the lawn.
Ok. Just let the bypass regulator bleed off any excess pressure that the agitator restricts? When spraying with the ball valve/agitation line partially open, will I have fluid going through the gun, the agitator, as well as the bypass regulator all at once? What about calibration? if I try to close the agitation line ball valve part way when I spray, I will have to get it exact each time in order to maintain calibration. Is this correct?
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  #12  
Old 03-23-2013, 11:30 PM
ArTurf ArTurf is offline
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LDH
I've duck hunted in your area in the past. Are you a duck hunter by chance?
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2013, 02:24 AM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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LDH
I've duck hunted in your area in the past. Are you a duck hunter by chance?
No. Never been much of a hunter.
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Oklahoma Licensed Pesticide Applicator (3a)
2013 F-150
2013 Hawkline 7x16 Enclosed Trailer
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Custom Built Sprayer

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  #14  
Old 03-24-2013, 05:25 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Originally Posted by LDH View Post
Ok. Just let the bypass regulator bleed off any excess pressure that the agitator restricts? When spraying with the ball valve/agitation line partially open, will I have fluid going through the gun, the agitator, as well as the bypass regulator all at once? What about calibration? if I try to close the agitation line ball valve part way when I spray, I will have to get it exact each time in order to maintain calibration. Is this correct?
That is what a pressure gauge is for. I figure out what the pressure needs to be and set the bypass/agitation valves accordingly. Then again, I have a much more precise set up where there is a secondary regulator and gauge at my hand piece. What I set at the tank and pump is only to ensure I have agitation, as well as enough liquid at the end of the hose.
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2013, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Ok. Then you will be fine. I would hate to see anyone blow a pump or cause hose to burst because the regulator outlet was restricted.
Roller Pumps can't build up that much pressure to burst a good hose. Most Roller pumps can't do 200 PSI. The little Hypo is a throw way style pump that won't do much over a 100 PSI. A Diaphragm pump like a D 30 etc is a totally different story. They can brust pipe easy.

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  #16  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:31 AM
clayslandscape clayslandscape is offline
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I finished my sprayer today.

Predator 6.5 Harbor Freight engine $110
Hypro 4 Roller pump $110
Spider coupler $25
Roller pump mounting bracket $50
8"x18" steel to mount engine and pump to $10
50 Gallon tank from Plasticmart with bands shipped $210
Used electric Hanney hose reel with 300' of 1/2" hose $300
Battery $30
Battery Box $15
TeeJet Gun with swivel and 1.5 tip $100
Miscellaneous fittings, wire, clamps, etc. $100
Metal for skid was free

Total $1,050
Could you show me how you hooked your battery up to your electric hannay reel?
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:44 AM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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I bought a battery box at Autozone and installed an isolator switch on the side of it first. Then I used self tapping screws and secured it to the skid. The reel motor and solenoid on the reel have wires that are wrapped in wire loom going down to the battery posts. I also have a power wire coming from my truck batteries with a 40 amp breaker under the hood. It goes inside the battery box and connects to the switch I mounted on it. From the switch it goes to the positive on the battery that's inside the box. When the switch is turned on, the truck battery/alternator charges the battery that's on the skid. When the switch is off, it isolates it. I'll post a close up pic.
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2013 F-150
2013 Hawkline 7x16 Enclosed Trailer
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Echo Handhelds
Custom Built Sprayer

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=417009

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  #18  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:48 AM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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This is the best pic I could get right now.
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Larry-YardBoss Lawncare
8 years in the business.
Oklahoma Licensed Pesticide Applicator (3a)
2013 F-150
2013 Hawkline 7x16 Enclosed Trailer
2012 Hustler X-One 60", 26hp, Flex Forks, Mulch Kit
Echo Handhelds
Custom Built Sprayer

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=417009

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  #19  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:10 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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My opinion, about the agitation and valves. Yes, you need a T off the pressure hose to send the entire output into an agitation setup. But when spraying you should shut off said agitation valve and let the pressure regulator determine the pressure. When the gun trigger is off, all the pumps output goes through the pressure regulator valve and back to the tank. When you squeeze the trigger the majority of the flow goes to the gun--sometimes all. If the agitation ball valve is cracked open you may not have enough pressure for an adequate spray at the gun.
I suggest drop both agitation nozzles to the bottom of the tank-otherwise there is no agitation when the tank is less than half-full. A short T-shaped pipe and 3 or 4 small drilled output holes will give you better agitation and force the liquid across the bottom of the tank where a powder might otherwise settle.
Most setups route the agitation through the same hole in the tank. The pressure regulator valve will have to be moved up a bit to accomodate another pipe tee.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 03-24-2013 at 10:14 PM. Reason: add
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  #20  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:13 PM
clayslandscape clayslandscape is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YardBoss Lawncare View Post
I bought a battery box at Autozone and installed an isolator switch on the side of it first. Then I used self tapping screws and secured it to the skid. The reel motor and solenoid on the reel have wires that are wrapped in wire loom going down to the battery posts. I also have a power wire coming from my truck batteries with a 40 amp breaker under the hood. It goes inside the battery box and connects to the switch I mounted on it. From the switch it goes to the positive on the battery that's inside the box. When the switch is turned on, the truck battery/alternator charges the battery that's on the skid. When the switch is off, it isolates it. I'll post a close up pic.
If I wanted to hook it up straight to a battery designated to the reel without recharging from truck battery, how would you go about doing so?
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