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  #21  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:31 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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My opinion: the negative (ground) side of the battery is connected directly to the negative wire of the reel motor (hopefully it is marked). The positive (hot) side of the battery is connected to the fat terminal of the relay. (Should be marked "B"). One of the switch wires is also connected the aforementioned fat (hot) terminal. The other switch wire is connected to the thin screw of the relay.
Finally, the remaining fat wire from the motor is connected to the fat terminal of the relay, (should be marked "S"). (Meaning switched).
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  #22  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:57 AM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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I agree with Riggle. A side note.... I have a wire from negative battery post going to truck frame also, ensuring I have plenty of ground.
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  #23  
Old 03-26-2013, 07:11 PM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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I got my bypass agitation plumbed in the way you guys suggested. How does this look? I installed the ball valve directly into the bulkhead then ran an elbow hose barb out of the top of it.
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  #24  
Old 03-26-2013, 07:50 PM
clayslandscape clayslandscape is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YardBoss Lawncare View Post
I agree with Riggle. A side note.... I have a wire from negative battery post going to truck frame also, ensuring I have plenty of ground.
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Could I have a separate battery attached to the reel without hooking it to the truck battery? If so, what do I hook up to the negative terminal as I know the positive terminal will have the power supply from reel.
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  #25  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:26 PM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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Here's my answer: You need to determine which direction you want your reel to turn when winding the hose up. The way you will do this is to set the car battery next to the electric motor on your reel. There will be 2 wires coming from its housing. Hold one to the positive and one to the negative. When you do this, your reel will spin. Watch its direction. If you want it to spin the opposite way, reverse the way you are touching them to the battery posts. Once you have confirmed it's spinning the way you prefer, mark the wires somehow. A piece of black electric tape around the wire that your holding to the negative post is the easiest way.
Now mount your battery where you want it. Self tapping screws that take a 5/16 socket and a cordless impact gun come in really handy for this. Run your positive wire from the electric motor (the wire you did NOT wrap black tape around) to the solenoid the way the above poster described. The negative wire coming out of the reel motor (the one you marked with tape) will go directly to the negative post on your battery. If it were me, once you have everything wired up, I would take a short piece of 10 gauge wire and secure it to the battery's negative terminal. Take the other end and secure it to the bed of your pickup with a self tapping screw. This will ground the battery along with the sprayer reel.
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  #26  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:30 PM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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And yes, you can have a separate battery in the bed of your pickup that is not connected to anything except the hose reel. This is how I have mine. The reason you want it connected to the truck's battery though is to keep it charged up. As your truck battery is connected to the vehicle alternator. After so many times of reeling your hose in, your battery will die if you don't have it connected to the truck's system. Your other option is to hook a trickle charger up to it at home.
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  #27  
Old 03-30-2013, 10:31 PM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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I want to add one thing after using my sprayer for the first time today. If anyone copies this design setup, cut the yellow wire that goes into the block of the Harbor Freight engine. This is the low oil sensor shut off switch. If you don't cut it, it will kill the engine when you're moving the vehicle around. Like when you leave it running to agitate the tank and you're backing out of a garage or repositioning your truck on a customer's property, etc. Other than this, everything worked fine. I will definitely be modifying my agitation though. Need a more powerful nozzle or something in the bottom of the tank. With my 1/2" hose, TeeJet gun and gray tip, the 6.5hp engine/4 roller pump puts out 1.5 gallons per 50 seconds at about 30 psi. 50 seconds is my walking speed to spray 1000 sq ft.
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2013 Hawkline 7x16 Enclosed Trailer
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http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=417009

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  #28  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:42 AM
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Ric Ric is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YardBoss Lawncare View Post
I got my bypass agitation plumbed in the way you guys suggested. How does this look? I installed the ball valve directly into the bulkhead then ran an elbow hose barb out of the top of it.
IMHO I feel attaching Heavy parts such as Ball Valve or Pressure regulators to the Tank itself is wrong. Poly Tanks are not that strong and will become brittle with age and Break. The tank can't be fixed very easy or securely

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  #29  
Old 03-31-2013, 11:02 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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More agitation and sprayer diagrams.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sclient...w=1330&bih=710
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  #30  
Old 03-31-2013, 12:25 PM
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YardBoss Lawncare YardBoss Lawncare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
IMHO I feel attaching Heavy parts such as Ball Valve or Pressure regulators to the Tank itself is wrong. Poly Tanks are not that strong and will become brittle with age and Break. The tank can't be fixed very easy or securely

.
Thanks for the feedback. I plan on buying either a 100 or a 200 gallon gnc space saver tank this Summer.
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2013 F-150
2013 Hawkline 7x16 Enclosed Trailer
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Echo Handhelds
Custom Built Sprayer

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=417009

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