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  #11  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:19 AM
GrassGuerilla GrassGuerilla is offline
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Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Riggle followed an unirrigated, hydroseeded lawn last year and we all got to see it turn to CG by Fall... w/out irrigation I would not spend a lot of money on it this time of year... run over with a slit-seeder with a mix of grass seed containing 10-15% annual ryegrass to keep the dirt covered for the season,,, and do a real renovation this Fall...
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2013, 03:47 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Since you have clumps of grass...do not till because then you have clumps of grass to remove. I suggest use a sod cutter to strip off the old residue. Then a light rake or light till followed by seed. Or install sod--its quick--and you can usually get paid before the extreme dryness sets in.
If its hot there, use tall fescue, not rye. Don't let your hydroseeder use more than 20 percent rye, its aggressive--if more than 20 percent--the results will be 99 percent rye, bluegrass will be almost invisible.
This is a good spot for irrigation--or--at least a temporary set-up, timer, splitter, and 4 hoses. Deposit refunded, when returned to you
Abiotic mean not fungus or insect--so basically they are saying we could not determine the cause.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 04-18-2013 at 03:49 PM. Reason: add
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2013, 05:14 PM
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DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
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Do a soil test
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2013, 07:22 PM
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POPO4995 POPO4995 is offline
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I thought about tilling due to the unknown, tilling in some compost but it really does have a good grade. I went and looked again and thinking the sod cutter and then laying sod might be the best option as long as they water, and I think they will. They are to the point now they said whatever it costs, we dont care, we just want a yard.
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  #15  
Old 04-19-2013, 06:57 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POPO4995 View Post
... The soil test was done by University of Illinois, and the actual diagnosis was an inknown Abiotic disorder
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The abiotic disorder is still troublesome,,, as though they are trying to say unknown contaminant, but the Uni should be all over contaminants...

Before you go ahead and spend the clients money on sod and wasted labor, I would check out the soil myself... what is the texture and tilth of the soil??? how does it handle water???

If the Uni can't give you necessary information then have an experienced gardener, or better yet a farmer,, take a look at a scoop full of dirt that is representative of the top 6"...

If most of the dead lawn mass will rake away, you can probably just put down a coat of compost and lay sod over that, without cutting away the top layer... If the soil is any good at all, the compost and the old rotted dead grass from last year will be healthy bed for sod...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #16  
Old 04-19-2013, 11:48 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
The abiotic disorder is still troublesome,,, as though they are trying to say unknown contaminant, but the Uni should be all over contaminants...
Why would they be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Before you go ahead and spend the clients money on sod and wasted labor, I would check out the soil myself... what is the texture and tilth of the soil??? how does it handle water???
And that will lead to what?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
If the Uni can't give you necessary information then have an experienced gardener, or better yet a farmer,, take a look at a scoop full of dirt that is representative of the top 6"...
For what reason?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
If most of the dead lawn mass will rake away, you can probably just put down a coat of compost and lay sod over that, without cutting away the top layer... If the soil is any good at all, the compost and the old rotted dead grass from last year will be healthy bed for sod...
This is a beyond bad suggestion.
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  #17  
Old 04-20-2013, 12:19 AM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
The abiotic disorder is still troublesome,,, as though they are trying to say unknown contaminant, but the Uni should be all over contaminants...

Before you go ahead and spend the clients money on sod and wasted labor, I would check out the soil myself... what is the texture and tilth of the soil??? how does it handle water???

If the Uni can't give you necessary information then have an experienced gardener, or better yet a farmer,, take a look at a scoop full of dirt that is representative of the top 6"...

If most of the dead lawn mass will rake away, you can probably just put down a coat of compost and lay sod over that, without cutting away the top layer... If the soil is any good at all, the compost and the old rotted dead grass from last year will be healthy bed for sod...
WOW
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  #18  
Old 04-20-2013, 12:52 AM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Riggle followed an unirrigated, hydroseeded lawn last year and we all got to see it turn to CG by Fall... w/out irrigation I would not spend a lot of money on it this time of year... run over with a slit-seeder with a mix of grass seed containing 10-15% annual ryegrass to keep the dirt covered for the season,,, and do a real renovation this Fall...
Smallaxe if you cant get grass to grow with out a sprinkler system then You are not very good Landscaper
The people that hydro seed that lawn you talking about might not prep the lawn for the hydro seed to start with.
I always have 4-6''of depth for a seed bed before I straw or hydroseed or sod lawns

I hydro seed a lawn last summer with out a sprinkler and it did ok looks really nice this spring nice and thick all turf fescue


Where I live maybe 5% of all the lawns in my town has a Sprinkler system rest is non.
I have never had a problem growing grass and have a healthy lawns.
Non Sprinkler lawns Grass roots goes deep.
In a Sprinkler lawn roots never goes down they stay close to the surface
A lawn that has a sprinkler system cant live with out it period.
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2013, 09:45 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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I can get grass to grow without irrigation... in fact most of what I'd done involved no irrigation... my comment had to do with neglect during a drought... the idea of putting down sod for someone who will neglect it it(as in Riggle's exa.) is definately going to be a waste of money in the Spring of the year...

I would not be involved in putting down sod onto large areas and expected that the customer is going to treat it right with hoses...
Look at the CONTEXT of the conversation and notice the comments were directed at sod and h.o.s that didn't care for the turf,,, [b]hence the use of Riggle's exa...)
I never use straw anymore becuz it ends up with lots of barespots... it is useful on hills to prevent current from forming, but a well conditioned seed bed, correctly soaked and maintained with proper moisture/air ratio...

Notice the change in CONTEXT between sod and seedbeds??? when telling me I'm a poor landscaper it is SMART to be able to make your claims make sense...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #20  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:51 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyder's Lawn Inc View Post
In a Sprinkler lawn roots never goes down they stay close to the surface
In a lawn where the irrigation is incorrectly managed, the roots will generally be close to the surface.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyder's Lawn Inc View Post
A lawn that has a sprinkler system cant live with out it period.
Assuming you live in a region that requires supplemental water inputs to keep turf alive.
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