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  #11  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:27 AM
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Runner777 Runner777 is offline
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I'm near Columbus, GA and I'll wait until the turf expires last seasons nutrients and begins the natural green up before making my applications. The turf out here is still dormant but showing signs of transition.
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:31 AM
jgrs7 jgrs7 is offline
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Same here, there is a little start of green in my lawns but still mostly dormant. I am wth you on that though. I don't want to force it out of dormancy.
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  #13  
Old 04-04-2013, 11:19 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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Do I understand you right? In the south on warm season grasses (like Bermuda) you apply crabgrass control first without fertilizer (including weed control sometimes), and then begin fertilizer apps only after the grass has come out of dormancy and greened up?
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  #14  
Old 04-05-2013, 07:55 AM
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Turf Dawg Turf Dawg is offline
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That is the way I do it. First round is pre emergent and a broadcast post spray. Since the grass is still dormant the fert would just be wasted.That is why I hate those Scotts commercials where they are telling everyone to feed their grass, because around here everyone would just be feeding their weeds when they start those.
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2013, 08:44 AM
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Runner777 Runner777 is offline
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Application timing is determined by turfgrass species. Warm season turf (C4) Should not be fertilized until it is actively growing. Unlike Northern Turfgrass (C3) warm season turf thrives with heat and stops growing when temps below 60.

For timing on pre emergent down south we try to time it off soil temp and normally Jan-Feb is a good time for that. Applying fert to dormant turf is a waist of money and is not healthy for the turf. Let it wake up naturally and expire some nutrients from the prior season then apply fert.


If interested in the difference of C3-C4 this link is pretty good...
http://www.fsl.orst.edu/forages/proj....cfm?PageID=33

Last edited by Runner777; 04-05-2013 at 08:50 AM. Reason: adding link
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2013, 09:22 AM
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Runner777 Runner777 is offline
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Here is the soil temp @ 6" in my backyard.
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2013, 10:36 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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My soil temp is 36 in the shade. A bit higher in the sun. And when my wife dug down for some garden work in a heavy shade spot. Frozen soil. Turf not green, but we expect warm rain.
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2013, 12:15 AM
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DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
My soil temp is 36 in the shade. A bit higher in the sun. And when my wife dug down for some garden work in a heavy shade spot. Frozen soil. Turf not green, but we expect warm rain.
I imagine about that same here. Frost partially but not totally out. Temps turned cold again. With a gradual warm up may be out end of April. Otherwise will be late and bump into May.
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2013, 02:06 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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Soil temperature here 37 degrees F. Air temp the same.
Heavy rain last night ...2 inches.
Grass has some slight greening.
Normal greenup here is about April 15, and first mowing is during the last week of April.
Dandelion bloom normally is about the last week of April.
We are about 2 weeks behind schedule weather wise.
Forsythia bushes have a slight swelling of the buds.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2013, 02:42 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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I feel like the hated little Dunce Boy sitting in the corner with a Dunce Hat on my head,,, when everyone else is going out for Recess... I haven't even seen any turf since Dec. 22nd, 2012...
Plus,,, I imagine that the frost is at least a foot or more deep in most locations(but, enough whining)...

Runner,,, when you say:
"... Applying fert to dormant turf is a waist of money and is not healthy for the turf. Let it wake up naturally and expire some nutrients from the prior season then apply fert. ..."

You are basically describing the life-cycle of our northern turf as well... Our grasses are not considered to need fert until late May- early June,,, although we may want to pre-M before then...
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