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Old 04-13-2013, 09:32 PM
jacobsenDW220 jacobsenDW220 is offline
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older style Bad Boy greasable spindles disassembly...

***Warning*** ...the following is a little long-winded... Thanks for reading on!

Howdy folks! First off I want to say thanks to all that helped out on a different thread where I modified some Bad Boy sealed bearing spindles into a greasable setup. It all went well until I put the 3rd one back together... Apparently this one was a replacement installed under warranty (which is long gone) and was a different type using a collar and setscrew to the shaft to keep the upper bearing in place versus a snap ring like the other two spindles... I found this collar was too thick causing the bearings to drag/bind from pressure once the pulley was installed. (This might explain why I've had to replace the belt every season?)

Anywho; after speaking to Mr. Robert Patterson at Bad Boy parts in an effort to find a recommended fix, he gave me the option of purchasing some "old style" greasable spindles which they pulled from their product line due to too many warranty issues... (folks weren't greasing them) They appear very well built, supposedly with tapered bearings and are geasable with a pressure relief valve on the opposite side. He gave me a helluva deal (1/2 off) so I went ahead and got 3 of them. (Greasable Short Spindle - Red 037-7000-00) At least this way all 3 spindles are the same type for future spindle issues.

...and finally, my issue...

Upon receiving them, they all turn with what feels to me like too much resistance (I'm figuring old grease from sitting so long) and am trying to take them apart for a cleaning / re-greasing... My issue is how to remove the collar / spacer above the top bearing (which is different from the previous spindle)... There's 4 setscrews securing it to the shaft which when removed allows the shaft to turn while holding the collar, but the collar won't slide up and off the shaft. I've tried slight prying to no avail, and don't want to mess up the bearing seal beneath it with more aggressive prying. There's 2 holes drilled into the top of the collar which a #10 or #12 screw might fit into to assist removal, but the holes are not threaded.

Any ideas?

Thanks again for your expertise('s)

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Old 04-13-2013, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobsenDW220 View Post
Any ideas?

Yup, The collar has fine threads and screws off the shaft once the set screws are loosened. The two top holes are for a spanner wrench for removal/installation.

After re-assembly the bearing pre-load has to be set, Pre-load is set like adjusting trailer axle bearings.....
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:46 PM
jacobsenDW220 jacobsenDW220 is offline
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Thanks
Now for pre-load help... Is there a rule of thumb something similar to "finger tight, then another 1/4 turn"?
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:53 PM
jacobsenDW220 jacobsenDW220 is offline
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Since you mentioned preload and all 3 spindle shafts turn with what feels to be the same resistance, I'm wondering if that's causing the additional resistance over the sealed bearing spindles, and am now thinking that cleaning/re-greasing and messing with the preload may be biting off more than I can/should chew... As a point of reference, I'd guestimate the new spindles take at least twice the effort to hand-spin over the other spindles I modified to greasable. Would I be better off pumping a bunch of new grease through one to see if that frees it up a little? I've heard you don't want to mix greases but actually have no idea why, and don't see how that's avoidable when I received nothing with them stating what grease to use... Opinions?

***Sorry if all this appears elementary or over-thinking, I'm just trying to get it fixed right the first time***

Last edited by jacobsenDW220; 04-13-2013 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:45 AM
jacobsenDW220 jacobsenDW220 is offline
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Thanks
Now for pre-load help... Is there a rule of thumb something similar to "finger tight, then another 1/4 turn"?
After doing some reading, I now realize if anything, that it would be backed off a little vs. tightened more... The base question still applies... Is there a general "rule of thumb" to properly position the collar/preload? Although I have no experience with this, my gut still tells me there's too much resistance on the shaft rotation.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:36 PM
jacobsenDW220 jacobsenDW220 is offline
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...bump...
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:35 AM
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Sorry for the delay, Was unable to get online......

A spindle of this design will spin harder than a spindle with sealed bearings, It's hard to explain setting pre-load because I go by feel. I've been doing it toooo many years......

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobsenDW220 View Post
Is there a rule of thumb something similar to "finger tight, then another 1/4 turn"?
I'd guess 1/8 to 1/4 but again it depends on feel.....


If it were me, I'd pop um in and go mow..... I doubt any grease inside is causing a issue, Most grease turns to oil over time and is likely not to cause binding.....
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:31 AM
jacobsenDW220 jacobsenDW220 is offline
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Originally Posted by Restrorob View Post
Sorry for the delay, Was unable to get online......

A spindle of this design will spin harder than a spindle with sealed bearings...
Thanks for getting back to me Restrorob (You're the only one that's chimed in on the subject.)

I understand what you're saying about preload "feel". After doing some research and studying them, that's not so much the issue versus getting past the effect of the additional resistance that's going to be put on the clutch, motor and overall blade RPM's... I'm guestimating the new spindle shafts turn with at least 3-4 times the resistance of the original bearing spindles, x 3 spindles = 9 to 12 times more resistive load on the system. Under different applications, I'd say "no way", but don't have the mower expertise to make that call here... I guess what I'm mostly looking for is an experienced "warm fuzzy" they won't cause a different load issue like having the clutch go out every season. After all, trading spindle bearing issues for a slipping clutch isn't the best of solutions.

The grass is getting HIGH so I'm putting them on today, and hope you chime back in soon for that "warm fuzzy".
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:41 PM
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jacobsen,


Your over analyzing the situation, Many OEM's use this tapper bearing style spindle without issue. Badboy and others likely found they could make more money by going to sealed bearings and selling complete assemblies, As long as the PTO clutch gets the proper battery voltage to engage it's not going to slip, Just put the dang things in and I'll bet you see no difference in performance......


Is that "warm-n-fuzzy" enough ?!?!
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:53 PM
jacobsenDW220 jacobsenDW220 is offline
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That'll do... Like your signature says, "You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all..."
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