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  #11  
Old 04-17-2013, 08:41 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Stick a fork in it...its done....
Buy a new wheelmotor from J Thomas..and get back to work..
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2013, 06:50 PM
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Sharpcut 1 Sharpcut 1 is offline
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It's probably a 14 cc whell motor, but if it's an 18 cc let me know, as I have had one sitting on the shelf for two years I would let go for a good price. Shipping to Texas might be a little hefty though!
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2013, 06:55 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Originally Posted by Sharpcut 1 View Post
It's probably a 14 cc whell motor

That's what it is.......
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  #14  
Old 04-19-2013, 01:05 PM
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ELS Landscape ELS Landscape is offline
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I think it is a 14 CC
Thanks

Do I need the parts Restorob listed or a whole new wheel motor?

I know I need a Hub/flang / key but unclear if the shaft and seal will do it or do I need a wheel motor.
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  #15  
Old 04-23-2013, 02:28 PM
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ELS Landscape ELS Landscape is offline
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Got the parts ordered. Contacted J Thomas for the wheel motor but had to go to Power Mower Sales for the rest of the parts, flange and other miscellaneous things I decided to order. Both companies were great to work with but I have not gotten an e-mail from J Thomas yet.

Noticed the clear 3/8" clear tube is very stiff. Is this normal or a sign to change it. The mower is a 2006 so I am thinking change it while doing the work. Is this something I can get at Granger or auto zone? New clamps as well?
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  #16  
Old 04-23-2013, 06:08 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Originally Posted by ELS Landscape View Post
Got the parts ordered. Contacted J Thomas for the wheel motor but had to go to Power Mower Sales for the rest of the parts, flange and other miscellaneous things I decided to order. Both companies were great to work with but I have not gotten an e-mail from J Thomas yet.

Noticed the clear 3/8" clear tube is very stiff. Is this normal or a sign to change it. The mower is a 2006 so I am thinking change it while doing the work. Is this something I can get at Granger or auto zone? New clamps as well?
Nope you wont find that clear hose and its always that stiff I still have factory clear line on my 95DC had replace it on my 88DC
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  #17  
Old 04-23-2013, 06:43 PM
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ELS Landscape ELS Landscape is offline
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Originally Posted by Snyder's Lawn Inc View Post
Nope you wont find that clear hose and its always that stiff I still have factory clear line on my 95DC had replace it on my 88DC
Thanks, I will leave it be then.

I may try to find some new clamps as it does seem to be leaking near the pump motor.
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2013, 06:56 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Thanks, I will leave it be then.

I may try to find some new clamps as it does seem to be leaking near the pump motor.
O yes
First things I replace is the clamps

Now I have seen one the hoses was crack but The owner lets it sit out side all the time. This was a 09 model even the seat was falling apart, To much sun
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  #19  
Old 04-23-2013, 07:07 PM
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ELS Landscape ELS Landscape is offline
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Originally Posted by Snyder's Lawn Inc View Post
O yes
First things I replace is the clamps

Now I have seen one the hoses was crack but The owner lets it sit out side all the time. This was a 09 model even the seat was falling apart, To much sun
Mower is stored indoors.

I am still looking for clues on the best practice method for replacing this wheel motor.

I am planning on changing the oil and filters at this time even though it only has 300 hours on the last change.

Thanks again.
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  #20  
Old 04-23-2013, 07:26 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Originally Posted by ELS Landscape View Post
Mower is stored indoors.

I am still looking for clues on the best practice method for replacing this wheel motor.

I am planning on changing the oil and filters at this time even though it only has 300 hours on the last change.

Thanks again.
I would to
Best to prime the motor turn by hand
Some might do it different Then me
I jack it up turn the bypass valve after motor has been primed Let the pump run fluid into the motor for a few mins Then turn bypass valve back and run the control to help get air out.
But I have done a hand full 1 motor and 1 pump on my mowers since 1985.
Done more for other people. They see my fleet they know I know how to work on them. Some mad money

One tip buy new pinch nuts (lock nuts) After been removed they wont lock next time 50% time they wont
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