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  #31  
Old 05-06-2013, 07:49 PM
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Gabby Gabby is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynardGkeynes View Post
One thing though, hard to tell from photos, but that soil, did you break up the surface a little bit before you seeded? It looks like it got some thatch blocking soil/seed contact
That was fresh top soil that I put down. I did about 10 low areas in the lawn where trees used to be. Filled them with top soil seeded, raked in, and put some starter fertilizer on top. Then watered daily. In some of the areas it was pretty low and there is 6+ inches of top soil. The soil is still pretty loose. No thatch what so ever in the seeded areas.
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  #32  
Old 05-06-2013, 08:21 PM
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Today is day 30 since i put the seed down and day 20 since i saw germination. There is some more growth then what was in the pictures I posted almost a week ago. It still looks thin and blotchy but there is a little more growth. More then once I almost raked it all out to start all over but I haven't and I am going to see what happens I guess. All 10 areas look the same so what ever the cause it is common to them all. One thing that has bothered me since I saw how crappy these areas look is that I used Scott's starter fertilizer with weed control. I have never used it with the weed control before so my thought is this is what my problem is. Is this crap somehow preventing my seed growth?
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  #33  
Old 05-06-2013, 09:26 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Couldn't disagree more. Do you have some references to support your assertion that straw will hold more water and heat the soil more than compost? Last time I checked compost not only holds more water, but will reduce the need to irrigate (reduce evaporation) and will heat the soil faster (lower albedo).
30+ years Last time I check Its hold moisture and hold heat in better then no seed cover

I have done a lot state jobs and never seen it in the spec book to put compost down for seed cover.
Always been straw or hydro mulch.
If you think compost is a better seed cover then straw. You think the state would have it in there spec book.
Fars that goes out all the job I have ever done. Never seen compost in the spec book. You think if it was the best stuff on earth they would have it in the spec book.

Its your right to disagree just like I disagree doing seeding on bare ground with out a seed cover like straw or hydro mulch.
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  #34  
Old 05-06-2013, 09:33 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabby View Post
Today is day 30 since i put the seed down and day 20 since i saw germination. There is some more growth then what was in the pictures I posted almost a week ago. It still looks thin and blotchy but there is a little more growth. More then once I almost raked it all out to start all over but I haven't and I am going to see what happens I guess. All 10 areas look the same so what ever the cause it is common to them all. One thing that has bothered me since I saw how crappy these areas look is that I used Scott's starter fertilizer with weed control. I have never used it with the weed control before so my thought is this is what my problem is. Is this crap somehow preventing my seed growth?
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weed control is your problem
If it had weed control then its not a starter fertilizer a good starter is a
13-13-13 12-12-12
With a soil test it tell you what the soil needs

90% of the time on my soil test always calls for Lime
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  #35  
Old 05-06-2013, 09:37 PM
maynardGkeynes maynardGkeynes is offline
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weed control is your problem....
Agree 100%.
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  #36  
Old 05-06-2013, 09:43 PM
maynardGkeynes maynardGkeynes is offline
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Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
The temps at various depths doesn't matter at all. The only thing that matters is the average soil temp at sowing depth.
The average of the boiling and freezing points of water is 122F. How good is that for germination?
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  #37  
Old 05-06-2013, 10:11 PM
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I never heard of starter with weed control.
I HAVE heard of starter with crabgrass control (Tupersan--siduron)...this product should work OK...provided you put down the proper amount.

What were the active ingredients?

Keep the water coming; it should look better soon.

Kentucky bluegrass is very slow--you need a lot of patience. That is why sod is better if you need Kentucky bluegrass--customers seldom want to wait for 6 months.
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  #38  
Old 05-06-2013, 10:12 PM
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The temps at various depths doesn't matter at all. The only thing that matters is the average soil temp at sowing depth.
So if the top is 50 and 2 inches down is 32 only matters what top is You are saying?
Whats the depth of your seed that you are sowing ??
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  #39  
Old 05-07-2013, 06:52 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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If this is newly added LOOSE topsoil,,, sometimes almost 6" deep,,, then I'd like to know if it was SOAKED to "settle it" in then raked LEVEL??? or was it just raked level so that there are too many large air pockets under the seed???

The correct moisture/air ratio in the soil is important at seeding time as well... the surface will not hold water as it should if it is too much air underneath a ways...

But yes,,, even broadleaf 'cides can inhibit seedlings for up to 3 weeks... not sure why or how,,, but that has been on the label for years...
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  #40  
Old 05-07-2013, 11:54 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by Snyder's Lawn Inc View Post
30+ years Last time I check Its hold moisture and hold heat in better then no seed cover

I have done a lot state jobs and never seen it in the spec book to put compost down for seed cover.
Always been straw or hydro mulch.
If you think compost is a better seed cover then straw. You think the state would have it in there spec book.
Fars that goes out all the job I have ever done. Never seen compost in the spec book. You think if it was the best stuff on earth they would have it in the spec book.

Its your right to disagree just like I disagree doing seeding on bare ground with out a seed cover like straw or hydro mulch.
Ummm, I already posted what I disagreed with, specifically your comments on compost. Since you apparently missed it ....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Couldn't disagree more. Do you have some references to support your assertion that straw will hold more water and heat the soil more than compost? Last time I checked compost not only holds more water, but will reduce the need to irrigate (reduce evaporation) and will heat the soil faster (lower albedo).
Further as an example, compost used for re-vegetation & erosion control.....

http://www.utexas.edu/research/ctr/p...s/0_4403_2.pdf

http://www.erosioncontrol.com/EC/Art...rage_4811.aspx
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