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  #11  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:01 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IM_Kona_Brian View Post
Thanks for all the input. I cancelled my lawn treatment service last fall at the behest of my wife...ugghh. Clearly should not have done that. Thinking of putting the house on the market soon so I really wish the bermuda was in good shape. I reached out to a good lawn treatment company that my friend uses and they were able to come out and apply a fertilizer w/pre-emergent last Friday. They also applied weed control to the lawn but said it might take a few rounds to get them under control. I used this week Ortho Weed B Gone Max to spot treat the broadleafs and some of the grassy weeds.

I am going to rent an aerator with my neighbor this weekend and also thinking of renting a power rake / dethatcher to do at the same time. Should I put anything down after aeration / dethatching...fertilizer, iron, lime, etc?


Thanks again -
Bermuda Lawns that are rotary mowed need a lot more attention to chemical weed control. If you terminated your spray guy last year, the lawn missed the fall/winter herbicide applications that would have prevented most of what you are seeing now. Now is better than never and your current spray guy is being honest in telling you that it would take more than one treatment to clean that up. I tell people at least a month, Then they have to keep the lawn mowed correctly.
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:31 PM
macgyver_GA macgyver_GA is offline
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Too soon to aerate. Wait til the end of May-beginning of June when the bermuda is vigorously growing. Also, get some fert down on it. That Poa Annua will die out soon when the temps get a little warmer so I wouldn't worry about it. Also, if you're gonna treat it yourself, go buy some celcius. Since you missed your Pre-emergent window, You can spot spray weeds all season in the bermuda regardless of temp with the celcius. You can't/shouldn't use the Weed-b-gone (2-4d) once the temps get into the mid-upper 80's or you'll burn the bermuda.

Most of the reason it looks a little thin is because its coming out of dormancy. It'll thicken up soon when it gets warmer. Bermuda loves Heat, humidity, and sun. The cooler temps we've had lately aren't helping it much. The upper 70's-low 80's this week will help kick it into gear.

Your front yard looks small enough that you could just rake most of the thatch in about an hour. I wouldn't worry about renting a power rake.

I bought a Tru-cut reel mower for my personal lawn in the fall and I've started using it this year. BTW I recommend Kent at Mower Medix out of Canton if you need your reel sharpened. $120 picked up and delivered for a grind on his foley grinder (a true grind, not just a backlap like some of the "reel mower sharpening" comanies around here sell). I got mine back from him this weekend. He did a good job and threw on a new chain I purchased free of charge. Very nice guy.

I scalped & bagged mine back at the beginning of April, raked up some of the thatch (didn't really have much) just to prep for reel mowing it lower this year. Then reeled it down as low as the Tru cut would go. It is already starting to spread despite the cooler temps. At the end of May, I plan on having a truck load of River sand delivered to top dress it. I've been slowly top dressing low spots over the last few years.

On my customer's lawns, I use a 36" WB with wavvy mulching blades cut a 1.5" in spring, then 1.75" as the season progresses. Always mulch except for the spring scalp when I bag.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:39 PM
macgyver_GA macgyver_GA is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
...your current spray guy is being honest in telling you that it would take more than one treatment to clean that up. I tell people at least a month, Then they have to keep the lawn mowed correctly.
Yes, that's one thing I stress with new customers that call me once the weeds are already there. I actually tell them It'll take a least a full season of applications to really get good results. (Ie. a healthy lawn) getting rid of the weeds is just one step of the process. I also provide them with a brochure, pamphlet with mowing tips, watering tips, bermuda facts, etc. It basically just tells them what I need from them in order to work together as a team for a healthy lawn.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:51 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Does your sharpening shop just spin grind or does he reestablish the relief? Spin grind only will work if you are cutting bent grass at putting green heights and you have the money to constantly regrind, then replace reels. On the other hand, I do know of these mobile sharpening outfits that try to backlap reels that have no relief left. Lots of reel mowers out here.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:56 PM
macgyver_GA macgyver_GA is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Does your sharpening shop just spin grind or does he reestablish the relief? Spin grind only will work if you are cutting bent grass at putting green heights and you have the money to constantly regrind, then replace reels. On the other hand, I do know of these mobile sharpening outfits that try to backlap reels that have no relief left. Lots of reel mowers out here.
He does a relief grind. He doesn't actually sharpen on the truck, he has a foley grinder at his shop.That was one thing that took a while for me to find around here was someone who actually does a relief grind. Everyone claims to do "reel sharpening" but all they do is back lapping. I bought my reel used last year so I had no idea what the history of the machine was so I wanted to "start fresh" and have him do a relief grind and adjust everything back to spec.
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2013, 05:02 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Good. Almost every shop here spin grinds only and just trashes the reel. The reel wears out quick and people wonder why the mower cuts so badly while needing constant sharpening and adjustment. Doing a relief grind to start and backlap for a touch up during the year is the best.
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2013, 05:09 PM
macgyver_GA macgyver_GA is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Good. Almost every shop here spin grinds only and just trashes the reel. The reel wears out quick and people wonder why the mower cuts so badly while needing constant sharpening and adjustment. Doing a relief grind to start and backlap for a touch up during the year is the best.
Yeah that's what he told me. He said I'd probably only need a grind once a year or every other year if I'm just using it on my personal lawn. An occasional back lap to "touch it up". Although, he said he doesn't like to do back laps since it slightly changes the angles. He said if I were using it commercially then it might need grinding more often. Right now, I don't plan on using it commercially, my current customers couldn't afford to pay me to reel 2-3 times a week, so once a year or two isn't a big deal.
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  #18  
Old 05-01-2013, 03:04 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Both backlapping and spin grinding take away the relief angle. Backlapping takes away less, provided it is done correctly. I actually adjust and backlap reel mowers. For people whose mowers have never seen the spin grinder, and the relief angle is intact, a light backlapping is all it takes to restore the edge. I hate seeing shops sell spin grinding only and the reel adjusted for zero contact. 99% of the mower shops here do that. They will even take a reel that only needs a touch up backlap and spin grind the shiz out of it without reestablishing the relief angle. That only works on golf courses where the mechanic can spin grind every week and there is a budget to replace the reels often. Grind up the reel on a McLane or Tru-Cut and the homeowner is out around $500 in parts and labor to fix it.
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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.
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  #19  
Old 05-07-2013, 05:26 PM
IM_Kona_Brian IM_Kona_Brian is offline
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Quick question on lawn cutting height. The guy who is going to do my aeration soon said that I probably need to cut it super low a couple times and then raise the mower back up to my normal cutting height. Here is my lawn before it is cut:





Here is with the rotary mower lowered two spots. Its not really scalped since it really isnt hitting the dirt but what causes the grass to be discolored in certain areas when cutting lowered and not visible when I cut the grass a little higher and is it beneficial to cut it real low like this the first couple of times?



Last edited by IM_Kona_Brian; 05-07-2013 at 05:33 PM.
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2013, 08:18 PM
wrager wrager is offline
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That is scalping. The green blade was chopped off, leaving the brown stem to show through. It needs to be leveled in order to really cut it low, where it will encourage lateral growth. Or just cut it at a setting that doesn't show the brown stem. Gotta cut more often though. I did that for 6 years (rotary) before I leveled. We, here in ATL, just need some hot days and warm nights to get the turf going again. Mine looks pretty rough right now too. I'm trying to be patient....
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