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  #21  
Old 04-21-2013, 07:51 AM
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mag360 mag360 is offline
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I have seen small open trailers with a built in dove tail and short gate - should be pretty efficient at highway speeds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzMTPjN43Y
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  #22  
Old 04-21-2013, 07:57 AM
32vld 32vld is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weeze View Post
truck tailgate doesn't have mesh holes in it either so not the same concept. truck tailgate is solid but trailer tailgate has holes/mesh to allow air to pass through it instead of going over it.
The trailer mesh and metal frame tail gate, along with being taller then a pickup tail gate trailer tail gate will still create a lot of wind turbulance.
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  #23  
Old 04-21-2013, 08:05 AM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knox gsl View Post
Why not get a 6x12 v nose enclosed for mowing?
The cost of a V nosed enclosed trailer would negate any savings on fuel. I would never get my money back unless the cost of gas went to $20 a gallon. My current trailer is in good shape and I don't anticipate needing to replace it unless it get wrecked or something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sjessen View Post
Richard, had a couple more thoughts of things to test before springing for another trailer, etc. Could you rent a single axle from UHaul, etc for a week to see if it makes any difference? Wonder if there is a way to convert our endgates to something with a hinge in the center to cut the height in half. Might help reduce drag at highway speeds. Only other thing I can think of is how fast we drive. Gas consumption really spikes above 60 mph.
I'll think about the rental but I used to have a 6X12 trailer before I got my current 6.5X16 trailer. I know all of my equipment will fit on the smaller trailer because I used to have one. I don't recall having problems with gas mileage before I got the bigger trailer. But gas was a lot cheaper then too.

Yes the ramps can be hinged so they fold in half decreasing the height of the ramps. That is definitely on the short list of mods. I also think I'm going to keep my current trailer and simply have it shortened. It's actually pretty simple to do. I would shorten it by 3 feet 4 inches. That would also enable me to remove one of the axles.

The axles are 3500 pound axles. I just had the truck and trailer scaled and the trailer weighed 3400 pounds loaded and hooked up to the truck. I figure that 300 to 400 pounds will be removed between the axle, trailer floor and steel. That will bring the trailer down to about 3,000 pounds which is well within the limit of the axle.

I am worrying about this because I don't expect the price of gas to get any lower than it is now. The price of gas has at least doubled since I got this trailer and if I can increase the fuel mileage of my truck, it will be a bonus. Like I said above, I'm just looking for 2 more MPG. My furthest customer is 14 miles away and a lot of that is 55 MPH road.
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  #24  
Old 04-21-2013, 10:15 AM
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clydebusa clydebusa is offline
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Sure didn't read all the comments, but years ago a study was done on loaded vs empty trailer pulling. Most cases and not all. Operators pulling loaded trailers drive slower than empty, thus making the mileage about the same. This article was based operators stating my truck gets XXX loaded or empty. The study also did loaded and empty trucks with close to the same result. I know I drive different with a loaded vehicle opposed to empty.
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  #25  
Old 04-21-2013, 10:58 AM
sjessen sjessen is online now
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Richard, what about selling the current trailer and getting another one in the configuration you are considering? Not sure you will pick up 2 mpg doing trailer mods only. Can anything be done to the truck to pick up some there? Wished I was closer, I'd consider buying your 16 footer.

The other obvious change is to pick up properties closer to home dropping the ones farther away. Based on my economics it costs right at $2 per mile to drive my truck and trailer.
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  #26  
Old 04-21-2013, 11:08 AM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjessen View Post
Richard, what about selling the current trailer and getting another one in the configuration you are considering? Not sure you will pick up 2 mpg doing trailer mods only. Can anything be done to the truck to pick up some there? Wished I was closer, I'd consider buying your 16 footer.

The other obvious change is to pick up properties closer to home dropping the ones farther away. Based on my economics it costs right at $2 per mile to drive my truck and trailer.
It would be cheaper to mod my current trailer.

It's not possible to get jobs that are closer. I'm 4 miles outside of the city so most all of my jobs require a lot of driving.
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  #27  
Old 04-21-2013, 11:27 AM
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LandFakers LandFakers is offline
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I went from a 5x10 to a 6x14 and actually went from 8 to 9mpg. Same equipment and everything else. Strange but smaller isn't always better
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  #28  
Old 04-21-2013, 01:23 PM
weve weve is online now
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I purchased my 12 ft trailer from a former Dixie rep. He did a lot of highway driving from dealer to dealer. He said that he noticed drag from mesh tailgate ramps so he had a local welder make a ramp that slides under the trailer. The downside is that it is a bit heavy and pushing it under the trailer six or eight times a day can take its toll on the body.
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  #29  
Old 04-21-2013, 02:07 PM
Hawkshot99 Hawkshot99 is online now
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When I bought my motorcycle I had to drive around 200 miles one way to pick it up. I took my mowing trailer(5x8 open with gate). I got better mileage on the return trip. Both ways was same road at 70mph. Only difference was a bike pushing the air out to the side of the ramp, rather than hitting a virtical wall.
The biggest difference to be made has to be getting rid of the vertical gate. Maybe somehow getting it under the trailer deck instead.
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  #30  
Old 04-21-2013, 02:13 PM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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I just got back from testing without the ramps. I did about a 30 mile loop through the areas that I normally drive. Without the ramps it was at 15.7 MPG and still climbing. The ramps have to go.
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