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  #41  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:54 AM
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kirk1701 kirk1701 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmarvin4064 View Post
Definitely do a jar test (compatibility test) before you mix these two together in your tank.

A few years ago, a friend of mine mixed some powdered thiophanate-methyl (generic Clearys 3336) and some average liquid chelated iron together in his 200 gallon sprayer. I formed a large mass of sludge! It tooks him a couple weeks and many gallons of ammonia to get it out of his tank.

Check the MSDSs of your products to find the pH. Often, very high pH and very low pH products don't mix well.
Thanks Lil
Will do
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  #42  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:29 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Good idea. You do know how to mix up the products in the exact proportions that you will be using in the sprayer. right? That iron product you will be using tends to be acidic. Good. 3336 is rapidly degraded by alkaline materials.
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  #43  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Good idea. You do know how to mix up the products in the exact proportions that you will be using in the sprayer. right? That iron product you will be using tends to be acidic. Good. 3336 is rapidly degraded by alkaline materials.
No, not really. Since its 4 gallon at a time I was going to mix 1 gallon up in a jug and make sure before I put it in the backpack sprayer but I take it there's an easier way?
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  #44  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:39 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Scale it down to a quart or pint before wasting a full gallon. The standard test is in a 1 quart Mason Jar. If the products mix together and are easily resuspended on settling that is a pass. Forming unmixable sludge, crystals, flakes, etc or having the liquid separate into an oily top layer with a water bottom is a fail.
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  #45  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Scale it down to a quart or pint before wasting a full gallon. The standard test is in a 1 quart Mason Jar. If the products mix together and are easily resuspended on settling that is a pass. Forming unmixable sludge, crystals, flakes, etc or having the liquid separate into an oily top layer with a water bottom is a fail.
Ok, so just a little math but don't know if I will spray them both together this month; I'm thinking seriously about doing the iron treatment on the front and waiting till when the fungicide is needed and apply it at a later date separately now.

I want to get the Iron down like "Now" this week and with these temps it might be another two weeks before the fungicide is actually even needed here.

Which is why I said a few pages back could be a month before I have any results. I was going to wait till I did the fungicide treatment to do the iron and assumed it would be last week of april.

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  #46  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:56 PM
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Get on the small doses of iron on a regular basis and you might not need the fungicides at all. That is my hope anyway. Small doses of iron will green up the grass without causing the soft surge growth that pythium and brown patch just love.
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  #47  
Old 04-30-2013, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Get on the small doses of iron on a regular basis and you might not need the fungicides at all. That is my hope anyway. Small doses of iron will green up the grass without causing the soft surge growth that pythium and brown patch just love.
I'll try anything at this point greendoc

Last year I put my N down the fall prior (2011) and last spring 2012 all I put down was my Pre-M and an insecticide. Went all summer, just regular monthly fungicide treatment and did fine but didn't want to take the chance of skipping the fungicide and last fall I figures "why waste the money on the fungicide I'm fixing to have it aerates and overseed" well we got one of those tropical leftovers from the gulf come up through our region and two or three days of 75 degrees and 80% humidity and sure enough I got brown patch anyhow and the only N it had in a year was the grass clippings.

Ok back to the iron I was going to put it down at the recommended rate seeing I was going to do it separately. Here's what I think I'll do. Half the recommended rate now and save a quart jar of the mix. In two weeks if it is even that long put down the fungicide and when I mix the clearys I'll have a sample of the Iron to mix with the clearys before I mix them both together.

If all's fine and it mixes with the clearys, I'll mix the iron with the clearys at half rate and do a spit application of the iron two weeks apart.
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  #48  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:07 PM
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Sounds good, Kirk!
You understand a whole lot better than most of the homeowners that send us notes.
Clearly this lawn is important to you.
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  #49  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:12 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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If I do not supplement iron and micronutrients in the highly irrigated and low mowed lawns I normally maintain, there will be disease. This will happen in spite of applying lawn fertilizers. Some diseases thrive under low nitrogen conditions, some are made worse by too much, but I have not observed any that are made worse by supplying enough iron and micronutrients to keep the grass green. Of course, this is in conjunction with a moderate fertility program. I suspect the reason why even though you starved your lawn the other year, there were still disease problems was the lack of iron and micronutrients.
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  #50  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:14 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Iron does not keep when mixed with tap water. If you were going to keep iron solutions, they would have to be made with distilled water and oxygen excluded from the bottle.
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