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Old 04-22-2013, 02:40 PM
92utownxj 92utownxj is offline
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Location: Unionville, IN
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Wiring an electric start Briggs on a Ferris walk behind

I have an older Ferris BGF48 walk behind. I got it as a project for use at my own house. The original Kawasaki engine was replaced with an electric start 14.5hp Briggs I/C engine. The Briggs engine is model and type 287707-1272-E1. I'm currently rewiring it using a diagram from Briggs and Stratton. The engine has a dual circuit alternator. One wire is DC output for charging the battery, and the other wire is AC output, orginally for lights. I have the DC output, charging, key switch, and everything figured out. It's straight forward on the diagram.

Now, the Ferris has an electric PTO clutch. Before I rewired it, the PTO was running straight off the battery and working perfectly. The wire went from the battery, to the PTO switch, to the clutch, and the other wire on the clutch was grounded. I know the clutch runs on DC.

Now for my question, Should I run the PTO clutch how it was since it worked? Or, should I install a rectifier diode in the AC wire coming from the engine and run it that way? The rectifier diode should convert the AC to DC. Any thoughts, ideas, comments? What's the best way to wire the PTO clutch for everything to work properly?
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:20 PM
ricky86 ricky86 is offline
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I would run the clutch off the ign switch. Use the A or L terminal to the pto switch. Should only be hot in the run position. I believe the dual circuit dc side will produce 7.5 amps @ 3600. Clutch will draw no more than 4 and you got 3 for the battery. Direct off the battery leaves an opening for problems. Like corrosion or leaving the switch on (for whatever reason). I guess the interlock system is not functioning?
Doesn't briggs show the pto switch wired off the ign switch?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:59 AM
92utownxj 92utownxj is offline
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Thanks for the help. I actually thought about running it from the ignition switch last night. I used a replacement briggs and stratton 6 terminal ignition switch. I do not have an A or L, but I have one free terminal now. It's the terminal that would be used for a carburetor solenoid. I just have the carburetor bowl with bolt in it. That terminal should be hot with the engine running, I think. I can test it. Then I can run the wire from that terminal on the ignition switch to the PTO switch.

I do not have the safety interlock system working. I want it to work though. I was going to get it all working first then see about the safeties. I have the switch for the operator presence levers. It would be ok if the engine would just shut down when I let go of the handles. I'm not sure how to wire that though.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:30 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Is there a relay between the pto switch and the clutch on this machine ?
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:32 PM
92utownxj 92utownxj is offline
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No there is not a relay between the PTO switch and the clutch. At least not that I have. Should there be something?
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:37 PM
ricky86 ricky86 is offline
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Some companies use them, some don't. Depends on your model's age. Most Ferris walk behinds did not.
Depends on your abilities and how sophisticated you want to get. Switch to switch to clutch will work.
KISS. While you're wiring the pto switch, probe it and find which terminals are n/c. You will use those when you get the interlock working. Sounds like the wiring on you're unit has been "Landscaperize"
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:53 PM
92utownxj 92utownxj is offline
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This was supposed to be a winter project, but I never got around to it. Yeah, definitely "landscaperized". The wiring was awful to say the least. It wasn't even wired properly to charge the battery. I got rid of all of it and started over. I should be able to work on it a lot tonight. I'll keep it simple and wire it ignition switch to pto switch to clutch.

I have no clue how to wire the safety interlock switch. The interlock switch has 2 terminals on the back of it. The pto switch has, I think, 6 terminals on it. I'll only be using 2 on the pto switch for it to work, but that's without the interlock switch.

I'm also fighting new rear tires. I have one side of each tire mounted on the wheels. I'm having a tough time getting the other side to even get started on the wheel. I've mounted dirt bike tires, but these aren't working out so well.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:17 AM
ricky86 ricky86 is offline
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Silicone spray. Works wonders.
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:09 PM
92utownxj 92utownxj is offline
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Just an update. I got the tires mounted up no problem last night. I also have the ignition switch wired up and started it up. It works great. I still have to wire the pto switch and clutch, which I plan to do from the ignition switch as was suggested.

Now the question is, what's the best way to wire up the safety interlock switch? I have the existing switch on the mower, just no wires.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:50 PM
ricky86 ricky86 is offline
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There should be a few, trans and OPC switch (s)
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