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  #21  
Old 04-25-2013, 01:04 AM
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Valk Valk is offline
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Get a commercial 48 walk behind if you're only basing this purchase on 2 larger accounts. This will be a good size to compliment a ztr when you really need one...IE 12-20+ larger accounts.
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  #22  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:26 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valk View Post
Get a commercial 48 walk behind if you're only basing this purchase on 2 larger accounts. This will be a good size to compliment a ztr when you really need one...IE 12-20+ larger accounts.
This is about the best advice I've seen posted here so far.
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2013, 10:38 PM
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TML TML is online now
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I'm probably going to take allot of heat for this one but if this is part time and only for a handful of open area accounts what about a John Deere Select Series Tractor? They can't be bought at a box store. They have a Kwai engine , very easy and tight steering and hydrostatic tyranny with pedals close together makes 3 pt turns easy. They can take a bunch of attachments for winter or personal use as well. I have a x300 it gets the job done. Kawasaki FH grade engine , solid frame, yeah it is a thinner deck but cost me 2999. I wish I had a ZTR but can't justify the expense for a full commercial unit yet.

On a side note to the above post about the 48" wb is good as well. I have debated getting a wb but have been able to get by w the x300 for all my accounts so far.
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  #24  
Old 04-25-2013, 10:49 PM
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JCLawn and more JCLawn and more is offline
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For what he is doing a low grade ztr should last 5 years at 75 hrs a year. The thing is those thin decks will drive you batty. In my time cutter I backed into a root and folded the deck right in. I can understand wanting a ztr over a walk behind but 3 grand is to low for anything really good. Personally I don't think the rider idea is bad. If you do go simplicy, it leave a cut that will rival our commercial mowers and its in your price range.
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2013, 12:19 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TML View Post
I'm probably going to take allot of heat for this one but if this is part time and only for a handful of open area accounts what about a John Deere Select Series Tractor? They can't be bought at a box store. They have a Kwai engine , very easy and tight steering and hydrostatic tyranny with pedals close together makes 3 pt turns easy. They can take a bunch of attachments for winter or personal use as well. I have a x300 it gets the job done. Kawasaki FH grade engine , solid frame, yeah it is a thinner deck but cost me 2999. I wish I had a ZTR but can't justify the expense for a full commercial unit yet.

On a side note to the above post about the 48" wb is good as well. I have debated getting a wb but have been able to get by w the x300 for all my accounts so far.
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You're not alone bro. I've posted the same thing many times on here, and recently even. I still run a 1990 JD garden tractor for some of my stuff, and it cuts and stripes as good as any Z made. I've posted pics here many times to prove it too.
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  #26  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:50 PM
dowtyt dowtyt is offline
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Well, I know it sounds like I didn't listen to anyone, but I really did. The thing is, I read the comments of those that say that a residential won't last day to day, however, what part of 2 accounts is day to day? Right now I mow 2 days per month with the rider. If I go to 4 accounts, I'll still only mow 2 days/month. Being a business, I'm in this to make money, and if I spend $10K on a commercial ztr it'll basically NEVER pay for itself in a part time business. If I buy a used commercial, I'm taking a huge risk. I bought a used garden tractor before this and found out in a short period of time that it was a junk pile. I couldn't afford to take that chance again. I'm still relatively new to the part time lawn business thing (3 years) but I know keeping up with 22 walk behind accounts and 2 rider accounts keeps me plenty busy without having to worry about whether or not I'm going to have issues with the ztr when I go out to get on it. I have NO PLANS to go FT with this business, so the $2999 hustler with what I consider a commerical motor was the most logical choice. I merely got on here to see if there was another ztr in the price range that I hadn't heard about that was turning heads as much as this little Hustler has. I did go by Lowes the day that I bought the Hustler to see what they could do on the Husquavarna, but they wouldn't budge. Not knocking them, but there wasn't even close to $1500 worth of difference in the two ZTR's. I would've spent an extra $500 or so to get the extra 2.5mph with 2K rpm higher blade speed, but not more than that.

Now that I've written a book, I'll give a short review on the new Hustler. I was really thinking it was slow yesterday when I was mowing with it, probably had it at 80% throttle not knowing that I hadn't pushed it all the way forward. It shaved about 20 min off the 1 acre yard, not bad. Today I mowed 1.5 acres and it shaved over an hour off my previous time. It was a combination of more seat time, and figuring out what full throttle can do for you. I don't know if those engines are made to run at full throttle for prolonged periods of time, but I would like advice from anyone that knows if it makes a difference. It definitely made a difference in my mowing time. Obviously if it signficantly shortens the life of the engine it wouldn't be worth it though.

Thanks all for the info
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  #27  
Old 05-05-2013, 11:56 PM
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JCLawn and more JCLawn and more is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dowtyt View Post
Well, I know it sounds like I didn't listen to anyone, but I really did. The thing is, I read the comments of those that say that a residential won't last day to day, however, what part of 2 accounts is day to day? Right now I mow 2 days per month with the rider. If I go to 4 accounts, I'll still only mow 2 days/month. Being a business, I'm in this to make money, and if I spend $10K on a commercial ztr it'll basically NEVER pay for itself in a part time business. If I buy a used commercial, I'm taking a huge risk. I bought a used garden tractor before this and found out in a short period of time that it was a junk pile. I couldn't afford to take that chance again. I'm still relatively new to the part time lawn business thing (3 years) but I know keeping up with 22 walk behind accounts and 2 rider accounts keeps me plenty busy without having to worry about whether or not I'm going to have issues with the ztr when I go out to get on it. I have NO PLANS to go FT with this business, so the $2999 hustler with what I consider a commerical motor was the most logical choice. I merely got on here to see if there was another ztr in the price range that I hadn't heard about that was turning heads as much as this little Hustler has. I did go by Lowes the day that I bought the Hustler to see what they could do on the Husquavarna, but they wouldn't budge. Not knocking them, but there wasn't even close to $1500 worth of difference in the two ZTR's. I would've spent an extra $500 or so to get the extra 2.5mph with 2K rpm higher blade speed, but not more than that.

Now that I've written a book, I'll give a short review on the new Hustler. I was really thinking it was slow yesterday when I was mowing with it, probably had it at 80% throttle not knowing that I hadn't pushed it all the way forward. It shaved about 20 min off the 1 acre yard, not bad. Today I mowed 1.5 acres and it shaved over an hour off my previous time. It was a combination of more seat time, and figuring out what full throttle can do for you. I don't know if those engines are made to run at full throttle for prolonged periods of time, but I would like advice from anyone that knows if it makes a difference. It definitely made a difference in my mowing time. Obviously if it signficantly shortens the life of the engine it wouldn't be worth it though.

Thanks all for the info
They are made to run wide open. Wide open is set to around 3400 rpms, its not the max rpm for the engine(realy its about half of what it could do), but rather the optimum blade tip speed and torque curve. Also I must say that's about the best thing you could of bought with your money.
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  #28  
Old 05-07-2013, 09:27 AM
dowtyt dowtyt is offline
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Thank you very much. I really appreciate the info as it is definitely good to know.
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  #29  
Old 05-07-2013, 09:44 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Running at WOT is what you should do as stated above. It is how they stay cooled correctly. The fan on the engine is designed for optimum cooling at WOT. Running at lower rpm's under load can overheat them, plus the blades, spindle pulleys, PTO pulley etc are all designed to work the most efficiently at WOT.
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  #30  
Old 05-07-2013, 11:18 AM
dowtyt dowtyt is offline
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That makes sense. Thank you, I definitely was looking at it from another angle, but now knowing how much they are governed that makes a lot of sense. They forgot to give me the owners manual when I bought it, so I just picked it up, but haven't had time to read through it yet. I need to get an hr meter for it to help me keep up with maintenance. I know someone posted a part number on a different thread, so I'm going to have to do some digging today to find that. Hopefully I can find a way to attach it that doesn't look like a rig job. The new still hasn't worn off of it to me yet.

I forgot to mention, I don't know if it was a gimmick or not, but the dealership said they were running a special through the end of April that if I bought it they would put some flex forks on the front, so I got those too. I can't really compare it to the originals because I only drove it around the parking lot with the originals, but it sure seems like a good idea. I know I didn't get jarred by any big bumps while I was mowing, so I'm going to say they work well. He said it was a $250 option if I remember right. So far, I'm very pleased with the purchase.
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