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  #11  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:28 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselMDX View Post
KIRIL so no early morning watering only a blast a 1pm?
Depends on your soil, but unless you are sitting on pure sand, no.

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Originally Posted by DieselMDX View Post
HISSINGCOBRA: good god I am way over my head. I do have a john deere in Dartmouth. I AM GOING TO DO EXACTLY WHAT U SAID
I wouldn't. He is way off base on more than a few items. Further, you will need to over seed again in the fall anyhow. All you are doing now is trying to get some desirable grass in place so it will be somewhat green until fall.
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:46 AM
bepperb bepperb is offline
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IMO it's kind of a time vs money problem, and which do you have more of. If you have a lot of crabgrass pressure, and/or have had a history of that I would not aerate and get some starter with tupersan. If that's too expensive, and you have the time, and you don't usually have a lot of crabgrass you can probably manage it by spot spraying and/or pulling out by hand.

Keep in mind most people on this site do this for a living, they aren't doing their own small yard. Hand pulling weeds for anything but the most earth conscious and good paying clients is out of the question. But if you have a six year old you can train to pull crabgrass or if you don't mind going around with a tank sprayer once a week you have options they don't.

Also, we must have the weakest crabgrass, or there must be more robust varieties elsewhere... because some people are deathly afraid of it but in my experience it's not that big a deal to control. So take my advice with that in mind.

Lastly, I'd agree that laying patches of sod always looks patchy for a long time, and anything with annual rye will have tall light colored grass that will look ridiculous. And if it's 100% KBG sod perennial rye might look out of place too.
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  #13  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:49 AM
maynardGkeynes maynardGkeynes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselMDX View Post
I have a small lawn about 7,000 sqft

i was going to spend 95 dollars on ultra for 25pd bag

will see how much jdl is today
Up in Mass, I would be using perennial ryegrass and/or KBG. Black Beauty and TTTF are recommended for transition zone, and little if any of Mass is in that zone. TTTF a good turf, but not as attractive as PRG and KBG and has other problems too.
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  #14  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:58 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by maynardGkeynes View Post
Up in Mass, I would be using perennial ryegrass and/or KBG. Black Beauty and TTTF are recommended for transition zone, and little if any of Mass is in that zone. TTTF a good turf, but not as attractive as PRG and KBG and has other problems too.
TTTF is the most problem free turfgrass (relatively speaking) on the market. PRG is junk grass, KBG not much better. If it is appropriate for your region, then IMO TTTF it is the only choice.
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  #15  
Old 05-02-2013, 10:19 AM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Depends on your soil, but unless you are sitting on pure sand, no.



I wouldn't. He is way off base on more than a few items. Further, you will need to over seed again in the fall anyhow. All you are doing now is trying to get some desirable grass in place so it will be somewhat green until fall.
Like I said, my program is not the "be all and end all" of programs but I take offense to where I'm off base. I'm open to civil discussions, so lets talk about what's "right" and what's "wrong".

You don't even have to use John Deere Landscapes products to get a good lawn. You can use any company's products just as well. It's all in the active ingredients and the "why's/how's" that you go about it. I recommended John Deere because that's where the majority of the Pro's go to around here and they get good advice from the John Deere employees. I work for John Deere and have been down this road too many times with homeowner customers who don't have the knowledge to pull this off on their own. I've recommended this type of program to 100's of them over the past 7 years and they keep coming back and telling me that what they're doing is awesome. I wouldn't recommend any of this is I didn't believe it worked or if I had no testimony from customers telling how good it did work.
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2013, 10:30 AM
bepperb bepperb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
TTTF is the most problem free turfgrass (relatively speaking) on the market. PRG is junk grass, KBG not much better. If it is appropriate for your region, then IMO TTTF it is the only choice.
I think you feel a bit more stongly than I do. I'd agree TTTF is probably the most problem free but KBG spreads, has better colors, and this guy just put in irrigation which is probably evens the biggest benefit of TTTF over KBG (deeper roots). Also, I'm not sure if his location makes TTTF not such a great choice, I'm not sure if he's too far north.

It's definitely something to consider, I'm just saying TTTF isn't the only choice especially if he has a KBG lawn he wants to overseed and not do a full renovation. If he had asked before irrigation was installed, or if this was fall and he was going to kill a salad of a lawn, I'd be more inclined for TTTF.
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  #17  
Old 05-02-2013, 10:31 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
Like I said, my program is not the "be all and end all" of programs but I take offense to where I'm off base. I'm open to civil discussions, so lets talk about what's "right" and what's "wrong".
First ... irrigation

Second ... fertilizer

Third ... assumption of weed pressure and/or problem

But at least you recommended a soil test.
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2013, 01:27 PM
maynardGkeynes maynardGkeynes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
TTTF is the most problem free turfgrass (relatively speaking) on the market. PRG is junk grass, KBG not much better. If it is appropriate for your region, then IMO TTTF it is the only choice.
TTTF is great if you can maintain a tight stand, and I mean a very tight stand. Once it starts to thin out, which is going to happen on most lawns, you start to get problems with bunching, prostrate growth, wide leaves, fungus and bare spots. Yes, it is a great grass if you know what you are doing, and all of these problems have a solution, but that's true of every grass on god's earth. I sure don't see TTTF as the only choice -- because I like the results I get with PRG and KBG a lot better. Your mileage may vary of course. Biggest issue with this gent is that he is pretty far north for TTTF, and PRG loves New England.

Last edited by maynardGkeynes; 05-02-2013 at 01:36 PM.
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2013, 07:49 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
First ... irrigation
Really? If he watered like you stated he'd never have any germination. Here's your quote from earlier in this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
"Yes. At those temps you should only need a slight irrigation around 1 PM. Couple of minutes with sprays, 5-10 minutes with rotors depending on distribution uniformity)"
We haven't had any rain in the past week and a half and the lawns are already drying out. His new seed needs to remain damp in order to germinate and grow. Watering one time per day for a few minutes isn't going to be enough.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Second ... fertilizer
What's wrong with my fertilizer recommendations? I see you haven't even mentioned Tupersan/Siduron at all and recommended a regular starter fertilizer instead, which will do nothing but grow his seed and Mother Nature's crabgrass/weed seeds. How is he supposed to deal with weeds and crabgrass, which we all know he'll get (unless he's got a very shady lawn)? Why do all of the Professionals recommend to never seed in the spring time? Because of the headaches they get with weeds and crabgrass pressure. At least I'm recommending a product that will work to control it while you are not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Third ... assumption of weed pressure and/or problem
This is not an assumption, this is reality. If you can seed a lawn in the spring time without the use of Tupersan/Siduron or Quincloric, and get no crabgrass/weeds, then you're one in a million, 'cause the other 999,999 people out there cannot.

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But at least you recommended a soil test.
Yes I did, and I always do.
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  #20  
Old 05-02-2013, 07:57 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Here's a couple of pictures of my lawn that I seeded a year and a half ago with Lesco's "50/50" Bluegrass/Ryegrass seed mix. These were taken last summer when it was less than 1 year old. I follow the same program that I recommend to my customers on a daily basis. I know without a doubt that it works.





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