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  #11  
Old 05-11-2013, 09:14 AM
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Yatt Yatt is offline
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Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
I believe Riggle has it right as far as timing... I find it hard to believe that the grubs woke up under the snow and started eating roots a couple of weeks ago, already...
All the damage is from last year.

This japanese beetle thing around here is new. In the past I have never seen any issues. Last year I was beginning to see some damage on my apple trees of my orchard and they are on an IPM of every 14 days minimum spray schedule and they get a shot of Imidan every time.

Virtually all the golf courses are now treating for grubs.

Getting back to my original question:

How is everyone treating, a fetilizer based insecticide such as Merit, a granular product just for grubs or an additive that can be used with broad leaf control at the same time.

I kind of prefer the latter as I don't want to charge people for more applications than necessary and if I could do two things at once it would be great.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2013, 09:44 AM
walliemeisner walliemeisner is offline
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Mole activity, as you mentioned would indicate grubs. I'm not an expert, but I've been told by experts (not sales reps (c that moles/voles are there for the grubs. The treatment for moles on golf courses is to spray for grubs.
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2013, 10:28 AM
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Efficiency Efficiency is offline
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Originally Posted by walliemeisner View Post
Mole activity, as you mentioned would indicate grubs. I'm not an expert, but I've been told by experts (not sales reps (c that moles/voles are there for the grubs. The treatment for moles on golf courses is to spray for grubs.
Not true in any way
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  #14  
Old 05-11-2013, 10:28 AM
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OP, we spray ours
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  #15  
Old 05-11-2013, 10:53 AM
hackitdown hackitdown is offline
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Mole activity in our area often indicates grubs. Skunks or crows and robins tearing up the turf, is also a hint. Neither is proof, but they would trigger a real inspection.

We use Merit early summer as a preventive measure around here. For lawn with heavy populations of actively feeding grubs, we apply Dylox.
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  #16  
Old 05-11-2013, 07:33 PM
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Yatt Yatt is offline
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Originally Posted by walliemeisner View Post
Mole activity, as you mentioned would indicate grubs. I'm not an expert, but I've been told by experts (not sales reps (c that moles/voles are there for the grubs. The treatment for moles on golf courses is to spray for grubs.
Well I have heard that to, but this is how it was explained to me. Moles are out for food. Grubs are like lobster/shrimp and earthworms and nightcrawlers are like cheeseburgers. Sure they like the grubs, but won't turn down the worms too. Moles make the runs they do, then cruise the runs for whatever comes in.
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  #17  
Old 05-12-2013, 11:45 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by phasthound View Post
Here's a pretty good article from UMass on IPM for grub control. http://extension.umass.edu/turf/mana...noids-and-bees
We all should be better educated in the over use of pesticides. Every applicator has a continual obligation to apply all pesticides in a responsible, informed, and careful manner.
It is usually helpful to print out the relevant paragraph, in determining the correct response to the OP...

"... Am I using the correct approach? Timing is a critical consideration when using a preventive approach for white grub control. Neonicotinoid insecticides have little or no effect against the large, mature grubs that are present in the spring or the fall. The appropriate preventive use pattern is to time the application so that the material is in place when the grubs are in the most susceptible stage of development, which is immediately after egg hatch. The life cycles of the various grub species found in New England are relatively similar: adults fly in early summer and lay eggs in late June to late July; larvae feed on turf roots from early July through mid-autumn and again in the spring; pupae are present in the soil for a week in mid-June to mid-July; and adults emerge early the following summer to complete the cycle. Neonicotinoids for grub control, therefore, must only be applied within the period from approximately mid-June to early August in most years. Applications at other times will be markedly less effective against grubs, while still carrying the potential to affect non-target insects like bees. ..."

At this point it becomes clear that the OP needs to understand the estimated time of egg hatch in his area,,, if indeed we are to continue as knowledgeable professionals...
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  #18  
Old 05-12-2013, 12:48 PM
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Yatt Yatt is offline
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Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
It is usually helpful to print out the relevant paragraph, in determining the correct response to the OP...

"... Am I using the correct approach? Timing is a critical consideration when using a preventive approach for white grub control. Neonicotinoid insecticides have little or no effect against the large, mature grubs that are present in the spring or the fall. The appropriate preventive use pattern is to time the application so that the material is in place when the grubs are in the most susceptible stage of development, which is immediately after egg hatch. The life cycles of the various grub species found in New England are relatively similar: adults fly in early summer and lay eggs in late June to late July; larvae feed on turf roots from early July through mid-autumn and again in the spring; pupae are present in the soil for a week in mid-June to mid-July; and adults emerge early the following summer to complete the cycle. Neonicotinoids for grub control, therefore, must only be applied within the period from approximately mid-June to early August in most years. Applications at other times will be markedly less effective against grubs, while still carrying the potential to affect non-target insects like bees. ..."

At this point it becomes clear that the OP needs to understand the estimated time of egg hatch in his area,,, if indeed we are to continue as knowledgeable professionals...
Thanks smallaxe, now we are getting somewhere.

So the second part of my question, how is everyone treating for grubs.

I do not want to be charging clients for extra applications, however two of the 3 with grub problems said "go for it". What I'd like to do is incorporate grub control into something I am already doing. Both of these places can forgo Pre-M so postponing Spring fertilizer and applying a Merit based would work. The second possibility is incorporating a insecticide for grubs with a broadleaf treatment.

It's not going to be hard to figure out when the flying adults have become quite a pest over the last couple years.

On the humorous side, I made a $100 last year trapping moles in the one ladies yard. She goes ballistic over them.
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  #19  
Old 05-12-2013, 07:15 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by Yatt View Post
... On the humorous side, I made a $100 last year trapping moles in the one ladies yard. She goes ballistic over them.
On the property in FL,,, I've had great success in trapping moles, becuz they are the size of muskrats down there... We have little problem with them in our area here in Wisco, but when they do show up, I haven't helped the client get shed of them except for those "windmill sonar things"...

How do you do it???
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  #20  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:44 PM
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Yatt Yatt is offline
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Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
On the property in FL,,, I've had great success in trapping moles, becuz they are the size of muskrats down there... We have little problem with them in our area here in Wisco, but when they do show up, I haven't helped the client get shed of them except for those "windmill sonar things"...

How do you do it???
The best luck is with the Victor Out - O - Site moles traps. There is a knack to setting them and the way I set them is different from from the directions and videos on you tube.

I found these and think they would be very good, not too expensive either.
I think I am going to buy some. http://www.traplineproducts.com/
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