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Old 05-14-2013, 07:05 PM
KSA250 KSA250 is offline
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Location: Amherst, MA
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A few Questions regarding the Kawasaki KGT27A

I was lucky enough to find one of these in good condition. Cleaned it all up best I could. I notice there appears to be a grease joint at the bottom of the shaft, but the instruction manual shows the use of a tube of white lithium grease. Is a grease gun needed to grease this properly or can it be done with a tube only?

Also, I was wondering if I need to apply new grease to some area around the spinning shaft that also spins the cooling fan by the crankcase? There was a lot of dirty grease in that area when I flushed it clean (I then power-soaked the entire area with Seafoam Deep Creep) while it was running.

When the machine idles there's a weird sound that sounds like a tinny metal banging sound (as though the fan was hitting part of the surrounding enclosure) but when you give it some throttle, this sound disappears. Any ideas what this could be and if something might be wrong?

This machine looks like it operates very well and I want to try to make it last forever, so any maintenance tips you can offer would be appreciated.

Thanks.

P.S. Will running this without a guard damage the machine, or only if I get carried away with the line length?
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:41 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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Your dinging noise is likely one or both of two things to check. Your clutch drum bearings may have some wear causing the drum to droop a bit allowing the clutch shoes to bounce against it or it's also possible that you may have clutch shoe pivot pins that are hanging up in the shoe(s) not allowing the shoes to completely retract under the spring pressure.

All I can say is from my experience is that I've always greased the gear head with good quality gun grease with no problems. Over greasing will force grease into the lower shaft assembly. Part of my preventative maintenance is to remove the drive shaft and coat it with a lightly with gun grease as well.

Running long trimmer line reduces engine speed and causes premature clutch/shoe wear. When I was in a shop we had a customer come in yearly to have the clutch and drum replaced due to running line longer than recommended. He didn't seem to mind as he felt it was a time saver in trimming a lot of steep ditch work.

Last edited by dutch1; 05-14-2013 at 09:49 PM. Reason: add
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:29 PM
KSA250 KSA250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch1 View Post
Part of my preventative maintenance is to remove the drive shaft and coat it with a lightly with gun grease as well.
Do you remove it from up by the crankcase, unscrewing a bunch of stuff to get to it yes?
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:02 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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The drive shaft can be removed from either end. If all you plan to do is lube the drive shaft, it's probably easier to remove from the gearhead end. If you intend to check the clutch/drum/bearing assembly, you may want to do so from the engine end since you will want to remove the shaft/handle assembly. You can go to Kaw's website to find a parts breakdown.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:33 PM
KSA250 KSA250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch1 View Post
The drive shaft can be removed from either end. If all you plan to do is lube the drive shaft, it's probably easier to remove from the gearhead end. If you intend to check the clutch/drum/bearing assembly, you may want to do so from the engine end since you will want to remove the shaft/handle assembly. You can go to Kaw's website to find a parts breakdown.
Does the clutch, drum, and bearing assembly need to be greased as well? (the owners manual doesn't say anything about it).

So I took the trimmer head apart (all the plastic stuff) and removed the gear case, unscrewed the grease fitting, and squeezed new grease into it and cleaned the old stuff out. Is that all there is to greasing the gear case, or does that thin metal nut (approx 3/4") at the base of the threaded metal part need to come off and the other metal parts slid off to get the old grease out from the bottom part? The manual isn't clear on this, and I hope I don't have to do that because the amount of force needed to remove that nut is completely insane (maybe it isn't removable?), as I already tried to do so with a large wrench and all my strength after even spraying it with pb blaster.

Isn't that threaded piece the part one would have to change also if you tried to put a Stens adapter on it to run an echo/shindy head?
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:24 PM
GlynnC GlynnC is offline
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Location: Nashville Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSA250 View Post
Does the clutch, drum, and bearing assembly need to be greased as well? (the owners manual doesn't say anything about it).

So I took the trimmer head apart (all the plastic stuff) and removed the gear case, unscrewed the grease fitting, and squeezed new grease into it and cleaned the old stuff out. Is that all there is to greasing the gear case, or does that thin metal nut (approx 3/4") at the base of the threaded metal part need to come off and the other metal parts slid off to get the old grease out from the bottom part? The manual isn't clear on this, and I hope I don't have to do that because the amount of force needed to remove that nut is completely insane (maybe it isn't removable?), as I already tried to do so with a large wrench and all my strength after even spraying it with pb blaster.

Isn't that threaded piece the part one would have to change also if you tried to put a Stens adapter on it to run an echo/shindy head?
I have 3 of the KGT27A and have maintained 10 others for another guy for several years. The clutch drum bearing is sealed and does not need lubrication. To grease the gearbox, all that is needed is to remove the bolt on the side of gearbox and grease 3 or 4 pumps on the grease gun once a year or so unless you are heavy commercial user. I have had no occasion to remove the nut you are asking about, but it is important to remember that the string head shafts are left handed threads (counterclockwise to tighten). Since you bought it used, I would advise checking the exhaust port. I have had no problem with my units, but the ones I maintain for the other guy are heavily used and the exhaust port needs cleaning yearly. And yes, the threaded "bolt" screws out (left handed threads), and can be changed for other heads.

Congratulations on finding one of these. They are great trimmers--the other guy has thousands of hours on his.
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:13 AM
GlynnC GlynnC is offline
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sent you a couple private messages--been a while since I've done that--hopefully you received them.
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