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  #21  
Old 06-17-2013, 11:56 AM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
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I honestly think razor sharp seems to be the best. No matter the degree of less tan sharp, it always leaves a partially torn edge. I used a grinder on my push mower years ago, totally unbalanced but, it made the nicest cut and the appearance from the street was a deep emerald green. No white or light brown haze to it. I have been told that a super razor shard edge with dull, thats fine, I have a mower shop up the street to apply that razor edge once a month for 12$. I have a air gun to remove the blades in seconds, again no problem. I also have a totally hand surfaced, and truly flat, front yard with NO objects rocks ect. to hit the blade.

I appreciate the advise but I think im going with the razor sharp edge. The gators leave a worse whitish light brown tear to the blades than the standard hi lift blades. I think I will keep the gators for leaves, but wont that generate unnecessary thatch which will smother or kill off my fall over seeding or my thickly established grass.


I am realizing that mulching or side discharge, regardless of which type of blades is used to cut, applies nitrogen back to the grass which is self fertilizing, but how fast does the grass break down. Is it a problem to cut all season and NOT bag the clippings. I am fearful of the thatch come planting time which is every spring and fall.

Can I apply synthetic granular fertilizer to new grass just 2 or 3 weeks old. I am really in need to green up my lawn and JUST planted rye seed last night.
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  #22  
Old 06-18-2013, 12:16 AM
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Valk Valk is offline
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Thatch is dead root system and is fibrous. If turf is mowed regularly, then clippings do not contribute to thatch.

My customer's lawns look wonderful and I don't bag...I side-discharge all of them and mulch ALL their leaves in the Fall.

You need to do some research around here...as well as the online archives of your State Extension office. Do not talk to salesmen at the hardware store/nursery...do not listen to commercials. Turf needs stress...not to kill it, but to coax it to produce deep roots so it will be more drought & heat resistant.

THEN, plant some seed in Sept with some starter fertilizer after you aerate or verticut. Do not overwater it and be patient. Quality turf seed can take 10-15 days to germinate. There's a LOT more to these seeding/maintaining/mowing/caring procedures. Be patient. There are many here WAY more qualified to give advice.

My BEST advice is to find information that is pertinent to your area/region. What may work here might not work as well there.
Good luck!
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  #23  
Old 06-18-2013, 07:51 AM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Appreciate the advise I am continuing to learn what really works and what doesn't just my experimenting BUT the bad experiments take a season to adjust. When you mulch the leaves do they disappear and break down because I have a TON of leaves I just cant imagine NOT bagging them. When I leave un raked leaves behind, they do NOT break down by spring time and im stuck mowing the lawn down to nothing and raking them all up. REALLY painful.
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  #24  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:19 AM
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Valk Valk is offline
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You know your lawn better than I...so bag up your remaining leaves, or bag them all. Sounds to me like you keep up with things on a regular basis. Enjoy your lawn!
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  #25  
Old 06-18-2013, 10:39 AM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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can I run the gator blades with bag for optimum leave pick up?
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  #26  
Old 06-18-2013, 11:38 AM
GrassGuerilla GrassGuerilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan82775 View Post
can I run the gator blades with bag for optimum leave pick up?
Yes. On bagging with gators. Bag will hold more as the clippings will be smaller.

And try listening when experts are trying to share hard earned information. The razor sharp blade thing has been debated (and proven) repeatedly. The idea is to make it sharp, and just remove the very fine leading edge with a 90 degrees trike of a file. It should just leave a hair width shiny spot on the leading edge of the blade. This technique leaves a lot more supporting metal behind the edge. Trust me it will stay sharp much longer. A truly razor sharp edge will simply fold and become quite jagged within 2 minutes. The real key to sharpening blades is keeping the shape correct and avoiding rounded tips.
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  #27  
Old 06-18-2013, 03:31 PM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
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sounds good to me. Is it safe to say the proof is in the final condition from the cut? meaning, the edge of the grass blades after the cut. I shouldn't see tearing. I will say I do go pretty slow with the mower. Thanks for the advise.

Can I ask you the true purpose between the Hi lift and low lift blades. Are there any trade offs and perks of either
.
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  #28  
Old 06-19-2013, 09:59 AM
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Valk Valk is offline
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Perhaps on a limb here, but low-lifts may mulch better due to less turbulence under the closed deck. When your chute blocker is removed, then the lifted air is free to move out making hi-lifts more useful.

When mulching you will have more tearing due to all the turbulence of spinning blades mixed with clippings.

Have you tried side-discharging yet? As stated, it will save you time and you'll get a better cut.
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~ cut it high ~ let it fly ~
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Some folks are so contrary that if they fell into a river,
they'd insist on floating upstream.
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  #29  
Old 06-19-2013, 12:19 PM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Location: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
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I'm going to try side discharging this week but do I need to go over the center area twice. Every pass pushes the grass further and more clippings are involved. Ill have to experiment
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  #30  
Old 06-19-2013, 12:23 PM
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mnglocker mnglocker is offline
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Location: West of the Mess, MN
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Advice...

You'll never make the Cub something it isn't: A commercial machine with high blade tip speeds.

Keep the cub clean, take a pic or two and put it on craigslist and see if you can get close to what you paid for it.

Then buy a used commercial walk behind and have what you want/need.
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