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  #31  
Old 06-19-2013, 01:11 PM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Posts: 54
i dont think there is anything wrong with the cub. sure its not a 32 HP but again, i have a small lawn that takes 15 minutes to cut and I enjoy cutting twice a week. This thing doesnt have multiple adjustments like others but again, it works well. I cut dry to moist and approx 1- 1 1/4 inches max per cut. This thing is fine. Just need to learn which function to perform, mulch side discharge bag ect and with which blade.

I honestly have no reason or desire to purchase a used commercial 4K walk behind when 33 inches and 10 HP is about as big and powerful as I need. My lawn is what remains from a 120'x60' lot, minus the house driveway and swimming pool.

And just to repeat myself, my soil is 100% flat ! hand graded so I am going to make my blades razor sharp. No hills or THINGS in the soil to hit and curl the blades, just metal vs grass.
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  #32  
Old 06-21-2013, 07:57 PM
GrassGuerilla GrassGuerilla is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: St. Louis Missouri
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Ok. Have fun. The things listed have nothing to do with what I tried to share about sharpening blades. Yes, the blades of grass WILL curl the razor sharp edges of a blade, quickly. But I'm not going to beat myself over the head trying to explain it to you. Try it. Or don't. No animosity needed.

I'm an idiot and have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to cutting grass and sharpening blades. Just sharing a wasted decade+ of experience.
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  #33  
Old 06-21-2013, 08:37 PM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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I have a pneumatic air gun. Takes 20 seconds to take the blades off. My neighbor has a 1,000 sharpening tool so it's nothing to have them professionally sharpened and balanced once a month. So again, my cut will continue with a razor sharp blade Blades are dirt cheap. My file off a sharp edge. I'm in the major not settling for a minor league cut lol.
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  #34  
Old 06-21-2013, 09:03 PM
GrassGuerilla GrassGuerilla is offline
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Location: St. Louis Missouri
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Either a: you have no idea how sharp "razor sharp" is.
Or b: you've never looked at a razor sharp blade after 20 minutes of cutting

After about two minutes the "razor sharp" edge will be destroyed from thick dense grass. The edge will be wavy with divots. The rest of the grass cut after the first two minutes will likely have brown tips.

The key. The key my good and determined friend, is the tip. The first inch. Straight, correct profile. I wish you the best with your plan.
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  #35  
Old 06-21-2013, 09:36 PM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Location: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
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I have the edge now, of which you speak of, and it cuts and tears soooooo. Now what. Yes, I am determined
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  #36  
Old 06-21-2013, 11:02 PM
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Valk Valk is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Eastern KS
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Are you still mulching? This will result in torn tips since EVERYTHING is swirling around under there. Side-discharge!

Lot size: 60'x120'
Dang, if your lawn is that small then why not just bag it? It's not like you're doing this for a living ya know.
I HATE bagging, too, so...
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  #37  
Old 06-21-2013, 11:12 PM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Location: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
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No I'm side discharging.
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  #38  
Old 06-21-2013, 11:42 PM
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Valk Valk is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Eastern KS
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I'm not a chemical guy, but it seems that when any of my customers gets a fert/broadleaf treatment by their chem company that I'll notice excessive brown tips when I return for the next mowing. I'm a stickler about keeping my blades sharp so I gotta point my finger elsewhere.

I bring all this up since you had said you've been trying to green up your lawn with fertilizer. So, if there's any truth to my observations, then perhaps we've found your culprit.

I have a neighbor nearby that uses one of these Cub 33s. I'll try to remember to slow down and see how his is cutting.
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~ cut it high ~ let it fly ~
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Some folks are so contrary that if they fell into a river,
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  #39  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:04 AM
dan82775 dan82775 is offline
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Location: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
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so you also prefer a super sharp tip? or do you take a file to your edge and knock the KNIFE edfe down to a BUTTER knife edge.
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  #40  
Old 06-22-2013, 03:55 PM
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Valk Valk is offline
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I just don't sharpen to extreme sharpness...they dull very fast and are more prone to knicking from sticks/etc... No, I do not square them up...nor are they excessively sharp/sharpened.

New blades get a very brief fine handfile from me...then they go on. For (re)sharpening purposes, I use a handfile 99% of the time even though I have an angle grinder. Many (around here) try valiantly to maintain the 'ideal' 30 degree angle... I just put an edge on it/them. When the ends start to round too much I switch to new blades.

FWIW, I have 4-6 different kinds of blades at my disposal that I try to match to the 'avg conditions for the day': depending on wetness/dryness...how tall the grass is...and how much I want to process the clippings.

Any chance you're being overly critical or analytical with with your grass tips? Have you examined others from neighboring lawns? When do you notice these brown tips.
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~ cut it high ~ let it fly ~
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Some folks are so contrary that if they fell into a river,
they'd insist on floating upstream.
~ Josh Billings
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