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  #11  
Old 06-18-2013, 03:50 PM
SlaytonFarms SlaytonFarms is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Drop the paraquat. That much paraquat antagonizes glyphosate. If you want to use paraquat, omit the glyphosate. The diuron in the Krovar will modify the action of the paraquat, making it a much more potent herbicide.
Great advice. Thanks, I was under the impression that I would have issue knocking down some of the grasses without the Glyphosate. Your reply made my research alittle harder and made the difference.
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  #12  
Old 06-18-2013, 03:52 PM
SlaytonFarms SlaytonFarms is offline
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Originally Posted by ted putnam View Post
Your bid will of course have to be based on material costs. Make sure you have everything you need and skip any extras or unnecessaries. I based mine on materials recommended by Greendoctor at the time. I thought using paraquat and Glphosate in the same mix was overkill when I first saw it in this thread as well. However, I lack the experience to know that some of these particular products enhance the effect of others. In my bid, blue dye was a requirement and had to be included in the list of materials to be used too. Blue dye is not cheap and its something I almost never use and didn't even think about in my material costs until I got a list of prerequisites for the bidding process.
I forgot to add my dye and surfactant both.
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2013, 03:55 PM
SlaytonFarms SlaytonFarms is offline
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Originally Posted by SOONER GREEN View Post
$200.00 for 12 lbs of Krovar is high. $80 bag is what It goes for.
I need to fine tune it I agree. But the Krovar is the chemical driving up the cost and it is near the quoted $80 bag, but the bags are 6 pounds each.
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2013, 04:04 PM
SlaytonFarms SlaytonFarms is offline
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I have come to realize the profit will come with volume. If I was able to drop the Krovar for something as potent for half the price it would help, but I will need multiple customers on a regular bases to make the bareground portion pay for itself.

I am going to test out for lawn/turf and trees next month to add some variety to my income. In planning for this, do those of you who spray herbicides and Fertilizers use separate tanks for heavy chemicals (Krovar/Glyphosate) and lawn friendly chemicals?
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  #15  
Old 06-19-2013, 12:45 AM
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ted putnam ted putnam is offline
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Here again, I lack some of the experience that others have in bare ground apps. I do know that some of the herbicides used in bare ground are merely pre-emergent herbicides used at higher rates. Diuron for instance can kill trees at higher rates. Used at lower rates you can achieve Bermuda Release. A thorough rinsing might be all it takes to get the tank clean enough to use lawn chemicals if something like this were used. On the other hand, if Imazapyr were used, I would give the tank a thorough scrub down before using it for lawns I'd like to keep alive. Even then, I might sweat it a little.

It's always better to have dedicated equipment whenever possible to avoid cross contamination and the possibility of costly accidents/mistakes.
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2013, 01:17 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Originally Posted by SOONER GREEN View Post
The going rate is a penny per foot. $435/acre you should keep your chem cost to @ $200./acre. 2 bags Krovar and 5 qts glyphos . add 1 bad Diuron if its bad. or 1 bag Sahara and 1 bag Krovar with 5 qts Gly/acre.
Sahara and Krovar should be rotated rather than mixed together to preserve effectiveness of both MOAs.
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2013, 01:22 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Originally Posted by ted putnam View Post
Here again, I lack some of the experience that others have in bare ground apps. I do know that some of the herbicides used in bare ground are merely pre-emergent herbicides used at higher rates. Diuron for instance can kill trees at higher rates. Used at lower rates you can achieve Bermuda Release. A thorough rinsing might be all it takes to get the tank clean enough to use lawn chemicals if something like this were used. On the other hand, if Imazapyr were used, I would give the tank a thorough scrub down before using it for lawns I'd like to keep alive. Even then, I might sweat it a little.

It's always better to have dedicated equipment whenever possible to avoid cross contamination and the possibility of costly accidents/mistakes.
Guess I am really good at cleaning things out. My normal bare ground mixes involve imazapyr or metsulfuron, with 2,4-D ester or Garlon 4 to knockdown trees and vines. I use double the max rate of tank neutralizer circulated through. Screens are cleaned off and the inside of the tank is blasted with the neutralizer solution at high pressure. Lawns, trees, and nursery stock are treated with the rig no problems.
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  #18  
Old 06-19-2013, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Guess I am really good at cleaning things out. My normal bare ground mixes involve imazapyr or metsulfuron, with 2,4-D ester or Garlon 4 to knockdown trees and vines. I use double the max rate of tank neutralizer circulated through. Screens are cleaned off and the inside of the tank is blasted with the neutralizer solution at high pressure. Lawns, trees, and nursery stock are treated with the rig no problems.
It's probably just me more than anything. The thought of having to call my Insurance agent for a mishap makes me sick to my stomach... I have used my tree shrub unit for "Total kills"using Glyphos/Triclopyr in rough terrain because I had much more reach with the pressure. A good cleaning and everything is fine. However, something about the phrase "bare ground" and the products used to provide months of control gives me Hellish/Nightmare pictures in my mind...
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2013, 03:11 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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The only mix that ever made me nervous was 12 oz Oust and 10 lb Velpar DF. I washed everything out well and only used the sprayer for lawn fertilizations for quite a while after. Oust has quite a reputation for damaging plants in small amounts. Only vegetation tolerant is some grasses and conifers.
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