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  #21  
Old 08-29-2013, 09:29 AM
WrightCommercial WrightCommercial is offline
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kawakx125,

The blade needs to be low enough so when the grass is being layed over by the baffle the front cutting edge can cut it, if too high in the baffles the grass gets cut further back on the blade edge. If the blade is to low it will force some of the air it is moving out under the baffle dropping the chamber air flows and discharge velocity. On the older decks the blade height (cutting edge to the top of the air foil) was split in half by the bottom edge of the baffle. The new baffle has the sections that drop down (these help lower the air turbulence between the cutting chambers from forcing air under the baffle) lower then the overall bottom of the baffle and the blades are set in relation to those two drop downs, which exposes more of the air foil below the higher part of the baffles lower edge. It isn't usually a problem in this set up for most users but certain conditions may require this relationship to be changed.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg.
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  #22  
Old 08-29-2013, 10:46 AM
kawakx125 kawakx125 is offline
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I am assuming that blowout most always results in lower chamber air flow and discharge velocity, correct?
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  #23  
Old 08-30-2013, 08:55 AM
WrightCommercial WrightCommercial is offline
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kawakx125,

Correct, that is why the baffles help in the discharge velocity by helping to keep the air in the deck. One of the issues the baffle also helps with is the air turbulance between the chambers at the front of the deck when the blades pass each other. In those two areas the blades are passing each other in the opposite direction so while the blades are all spinning in the same direction when they pass each other the air flows are in the oppsite direction. The baffles help in limiting the size of this area to limit the turbulance. Blade placement also comes into play, too high and it can over pressure the deck and too low can cause too much air to escape under the baffle.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg.
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  #24  
Old 08-30-2013, 09:12 AM
Cut It Close Cut It Close is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrightCommercial View Post
Cut It Close,

When the deck is at the 3" height what are the blade tip measurements? Are the spindles in the deck completely flat on the bottom or does the shaft stick out a 1/4" on the bottom? What is the serial number, I would like to see the warranty history on the unit and which 19 hp engine is on the unit? Did the tune up include valve adjustments? This was bought used correct, did the previous owner provide any service history on the mower?

Best Regards
Wright Mfg.
The mower was bought used with no history other than the guy who buys them, then reconditions and sells. The serial # 49407. Engine FH601V 19hp. There doesn't seem to be a shaft sticking out of spindles. They look like there mounted flush to the deck. When lever is a 3" the measurement of blade tip at front is 2.5" This is with 1 spacer on top of blade. Deck Pitch at lowest setting as well as casters. 18 psi on rears. Running stock Wright Blades. Tuneup did not include valve adj.

Thanks
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  #25  
Old 08-30-2013, 10:36 AM
kawakx125 kawakx125 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrightCommercial View Post
kawakx125,

Correct, that is why the baffles help in the discharge velocity by helping to keep the air in the deck. One of the issues the baffle also helps with is the air turbulance between the chambers at the front of the deck when the blades pass each other. In those two areas the blades are passing each other in the opposite direction so while the blades are all spinning in the same direction when they pass each other the air flows are in the oppsite direction. The baffles help in limiting the size of this area to limit the turbulance. Blade placement also comes into play, too high and it can over pressure the deck and too low can cause too much air to escape under the baffle.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg.
so what happens when the deck is over pressureized? i took one spacer out yesterday and it greatly reduced blowout, thinking one more might do the trick to eliminate it
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  #26  
Old 08-30-2013, 03:36 PM
WrightCommercial WrightCommercial is offline
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Cut It Close,

The original spindles where completely flat with no exposed shaft and the blades bolted directly to the bottom with no spacers. If you have these spindles and the blades are spaced then the blades are too low in the deck and in their relation to the baffle allowing the blowout. The spindles that have spacers will have the shaft exposed between 1/4" - 1/2" on the bottom of the spindle depending on which version it is. Valves should be checked/adjusted every 300 hours and could be the cause of the back fire at start up.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg.
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  #27  
Old 08-30-2013, 03:42 PM
WrightCommercial WrightCommercial is offline
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kawakx125,

The most common thing is blowout on the side of the trim chamber since it is furthest from the discharge. Usually shows up as a few inches of grass not being cut on the edge of the trim chamber. One more spacer out will basically be the relationship the previous deck had between the baffle and blade, keep an eye on the area of the cut where the drop down sections on the baffle are to make sure with the new blade set they are still being cut correctly.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg.
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  #28  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:03 PM
Cut It Close Cut It Close is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrightCommercial View Post
Cut It Close,

Valves should be checked/adjusted every 300 hours and could be the cause of the back fire at start up.

Best Regards
Wright Mfg.
Had valves adjusted. Mower still backfires at startup and now when turning off, even at idle. Mower will still run rough then sometimes run perfect. When blades are engaged it will power down and then catch up with itself, then run fine. Sometimes it will run perfect. Especially first cut of the morning. Very weird. Could it be bad coils? I've dumped almost $1000 on this mower since I bought it used this season trying to get this thing to run and cut right. I'm convinced the cut quality can not be improved but the engine I think can be. Any help would be great. I want some knowledge before I listen to the mechanic and they charge me another $2-300.
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  #29  
Old 09-10-2013, 06:50 AM
kawakx125 kawakx125 is offline
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are you letting the engine run for a bit at idle before shutting down? I know that if i don't allow a ''cool down'' period before shutting off both of mine will backfire at shutoff and sometimes again at next startup if i don't. I believe the manual even recommends to let it cool down some before shutting off
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  #30  
Old 09-10-2013, 08:38 PM
Cut It Close Cut It Close is offline
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Yes, sometimes that will do the trick. Other times doesn't matter. Would a bad muffler cause these kind of problems? Also on the cut quality...Here's what's happening. The blades are not cutting the areas of grass that the front caster wheels pin down. The casters wheels are flatless but they are soft. Its like the 2 end blades can't suck up the pushed down grass to cut it, thus requiring another pass in different direction. The middle blade cuts fine. Should I add a spacer to the left and right blades so that they are a little lower than the center? or would that cause an uneven cut? I get the same result no matter what blades I use...gator, hi lift, stock etc..
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