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Old 08-20-2013, 06:24 PM
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phasthound phasthound is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heritage View Post
Hi Ron,

If soil pH is below 6, I would use DAP (18-46-0). If pH above 7 use MAP (11-52-0). New seedlings needs available P. You can get this from a farm supply.

A pound of Actual P per 1000 is enough, so either bag will go a long way and spread with ease.

P is most available in mineral soils of pH 6-7.

Here (new jersey) P is regulated and the soil test must show low available P before it can be applied at time of seeding.

Barry Draycott may chime in with some comments with a spreadable and more organic option too.
A good natural starter fertilizer is 5-8-5 biosolid. I like to use a liquid inoculant with Mycorrhizae when seeding. These will provide rabid germination without excessive growth.

Just to clarify the NJ law, in addition to the regs Heritage stated, up to 1/4 lb. P is allowed per application if the source of P is organic.
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  #12  
Old 08-20-2013, 08:22 PM
Skipster Skipster is online now
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I think you're barking up the wrong tree if you're starting point is looking for a particular analysis. In my opinion, the first thing you should do is run a soil teest, so you can see what the lawn actually needs. If your soil test indicates a need for P, you can look for an analysis that will give you the P rate you need and the N rate you need.

If the soil test returns a good or optimum value for P (no P required for the existing lawn), you'll still some P for the seedlings. Most studies I've read indicate that 1# P2O5/M is sufficient to supply seedlings with P.

Remember, the particular analysis isn't as important as the amount of nutrient needed. When you confine yourself to a particular analysis without doing the soil test and the math, you risk overapplying or underapplying.

When we have these tools and knowledge at our disposal, why guess?
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2013, 09:06 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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In an overseeding situation--you run the risk of stimulating the old grass--and not get much new grass to establish. Then again, grass is grass so its hard to tell whether you have more old grass or more new grass. Then again, it probably does not matter. Unless your new grass is special--for instance--disease resistant.
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