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  #11  
Old 08-28-2013, 11:55 AM
g&MWorkslandscape g&MWorkslandscape is offline
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But is core aerating still good even if you are just spot seeding?
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2013, 11:56 AM
g&MWorkslandscape g&MWorkslandscape is offline
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Also I sprayed my crabgrass with acclaim and used the required 1 oz per 3 gallons however it really didnt work? Did I do something wrong here?
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2013, 04:49 PM
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americanlawn americanlawn is offline
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Go online & you will see that many land grant universities say the best time to aerate in the Midwest = late August thru September. I say the best time is in the fall, but it might be as late as mid December (still "fall"). Why??? To pull out decent plugs once the soil becomes moist/soft enough.

Every year I see competitors aerate and then leave a bill on the door after pulling 1/2 - 1 inch plugs (ripoff).

2 choices: using a calendar or using smart horticultural sense. my 2 cents
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2013, 04:52 PM
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americanlawn americanlawn is offline
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Originally Posted by g&MWorkslandscape View Post
Also I sprayed my crabgrass with acclaim and used the required 1 oz per 3 gallons however it really didnt work? Did I do something wrong here?
Kinda wondering if it's too late & not worth it. If it were my lawn, I'd plan for next year. Also check proper 'summer mowing height'. just sayin.
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2013, 05:04 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Americanlawn is correct in the sense that pulling plugs when the soil has enough moisture to get the plugs deep enough to actually do some good, if you think about it...

There are 3 main reasons to aerate and there are plenty of lawns that don't need it done... I've even done lawns that were no better off after the aeration than they were before, in fact aerating Fescue lawns actually thin the turf and the seed growing out of the 3" holes, may or may not survive into the following Summer...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #16  
Old 09-19-2013, 11:33 PM
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LifeBack Lawns LifeBack Lawns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Americanlawn is correct in the sense that pulling plugs when the soil has enough moisture to get the plugs deep enough to actually do some good, if you think about it...

There are 3 main reasons to aerate and there are plenty of lawns that don't need it done... I've even done lawns that were no better off after the aeration than they were before, in fact aerating Fescue lawns actually thin the turf and the seed growing out of the 3" holes, may or may not survive into the following Summer...
Does this (plugging thins fescue out) apply for a thick tall fescue lawn in the southeast too?
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  #17  
Old 09-20-2013, 09:29 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by dropctony View Post
Does this (plugging thins fescue out) apply for a thick tall fescue lawn in the southeast too?
I don't know if your tall fescue spreads or not... it is too cold up here to grow the stuff...

The idea behind my statement is that once your kill a chunk of fescue,,, it is gone... you now end up with a bare spot that either grows new grass or grows a new weed or is mud/dust from now on...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #18  
Old 09-20-2013, 11:31 AM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Originally Posted by ReddensLawnCare View Post
Correct. I always core aerate before i seed
There is a large National Co. Here that will do a single pass aeration with a rolling tine standard aerator and throw out seed and call it an over seed. Pretty lame and and they are ripping off the clients.

I'm biased and really feel reciprocating aerators are the hands down choice for over seeding prep. Vertical tilling I like to call it.
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2013, 10:26 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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What is the best method to overseed?
Nobody knows. Its almost impossible to determine what percent of the new seed took...because it looks the same as the old grass.
Probably the only way to do this is to use an overseeder and sow a purple color ornamental grass. So you could decide how much actually took hold. Compare with aerator. Compare with power rake. Compare with multiple drags.
So many variables: species of grass? Species and thickness of old grass?
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  #20  
Old 09-21-2013, 07:07 AM
Mike A Mike A is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dropctony View Post
Does this (plugging thins fescue out) apply for a thick tall fescue lawn in the southeast too?
If u are just aerating (not overseeding after), it is best to wait until daytime temps r in the 60s and adequate moisture in the ground. The fescue will recover better from the shock if its cooler. It will also fill in and you won't be able tell u even aerated next spring. Fescue is a clumping grass not spreading as I'm sure u know, but it will fill in an area the size of a baseball or smaller if its healthy....
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