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  #21  
Old 09-08-2013, 11:51 AM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Do not mow yet, the sod is not ready for that. You need to stay off of it for a month. That grass is at a much more delicate stage than you might realize. It's only going to be shaggy like that once. You will be mowing that grass for as long as you live there, give it a chance to get started.

When i said mow at 1 1/2", i meant that as your final cutting height. The rule of thumb is to take off 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time. Start out mowing as high as you can and then go down one notch on your mower for each subsequent mowing.

I'm not talking about those manual, push type of reel mower's, those thing's will wear you out fast. I meant something motorized, but when you see the price's of those thing's you will probably say the rotary type mower will do for now. As long as your blade's are sharp and you mow when it's dry and you mow at 1 1/2" you will be happy with how it look's.

Last edited by agrostis; 09-08-2013 at 11:55 AM.
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  #22  
Old 09-08-2013, 02:51 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
Do not mow yet, the sod is not ready for that. You need to stay off of it for a month. That grass is at a much more delicate stage than you might realize. It's only going to be shaggy like that once. You will be mowing that grass for as long as you live there, give it a chance to get started.

When i said mow at 1 1/2", i meant that as your final cutting height. The rule of thumb is to take off 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time. Start out mowing as high as you can and then go down one notch on your mower for each subsequent mowing.

I'm not talking about those manual, push type of reel mower's, those thing's will wear you out fast. I meant something motorized, but when you see the price's of those thing's you will probably say the rotary type mower will do for now. As long as your blade's are sharp and you mow when it's dry and you mow at 1 1/2" you will be happy with how it look's.
Agrostics,

Thank you so much for clearing that up also. I was a little bit confused because I knew better than to take 1/3 off, but also realize it's suppose to be cut shorter. So I'll follow the subsequent method, similar to the watering! I definitely seen you mention the reel mower so I had to look it up. And I will by far tell you I . They look like they great job on your lawn and on your wallet.

I'll save that one for after school, but I will be putting a brand new blade on the mower before cutting time comes and I'll get it down to 1 1/2 after the first or second initial mow! I also have yet to send you an email, had to take kiddo to water park yesterday, and zoo today, but I'll get around to that soon!
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2013, 05:49 PM
Will P.C. Will P.C. is offline
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The best thing you can do is sit back and let nature do its thing. Stay off the sod as much as possible or you will be fixing ruts, footprints, tire imprints, with sand for the next several years. The sod will do its thing organically and once it gets stronger you can focus on specific spots or problems

Sometimes we research too much and put down too many products. This might lead to you applying a long series different products to make up for the damage/inconsistencies applied by the last product.

I don't think there is a better investment than a reel mower for zoy or bermuda. It is not even an argument. Sears.com sales a Mclane 20inch for around 500. About 160 a year to sharpen it though
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  #24  
Old 09-10-2013, 09:40 AM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Agrostics,

Hey I'm a little bit confused about this watering. I don't have an in-ground irrigation system, so I'm currently using impulse sprinklers. I cut back the watering to two times a day, but how long should I leave these things on? Should I go with longer intervals being that I'm cutting back to twice a day? What would you say would be a good time frame for two intervals on impulse sprinklers. I got confused, because I put a cup out there this morning and ran each zone for twenty minutes and not coming up with but about a half an inch. Thank you again!
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  #25  
Old 09-10-2013, 10:01 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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I know this is a warm-season grass thing,,, but wouldn't it make sense to see if the roots have started in the soil and let the ground start to be something other than mud???
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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  #26  
Old 09-10-2013, 11:45 AM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Originally Posted by BlazersandWildcats2009 View Post
Agrostics,

Hey I'm a little bit confused about this watering. I don't have an in-ground irrigation system, so I'm currently using impulse sprinklers. I cut back the watering to two times a day, but how long should I leave these things on? Should I go with longer intervals being that I'm cutting back to twice a day? What would you say would be a good time frame for two intervals on impulse sprinklers. I got confused, because I put a cup out there this morning and ran each zone for twenty minutes and not coming up with but about a half an inch. Thank you again!
As long as the soil underneath the sod is damp, then your good. When you water every day you'll notice that it take's less and less water to make the soil wet, this go's back to gradually cutting back the water, concentrate on getting just enough water down to keep the soil moist and your zoysia sod will be that much farther ahead. Remember, zoysia in the sod stage is delicate and can really benefit from precise water management, but don't let it dry out.
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  #27  
Old 09-10-2013, 11:47 AM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
I know this is a warm-season grass thing,,, but wouldn't it make sense to see if the roots have started in the soil and let the ground start to be something other than mud???
Smallaxe,

I'm new to this so any information I receive is news to me. I understand what you mean as far as making sure the roots are not growing in mud. But I was instructed to keep the soil "moist". The problem with keeping the soil moist, is when temperatures soar 100 degrees in September, then there comes the question am I letting my new sod dry out? Am I keeping the soil moist. So then you obviously have to resort to watering weird schedules. When the temperatures are soaring the water is disappearing into the air. Then I then get paranoid about watering? I'm going to go ahead and spread out tuna cans today. The weather has been calling for rain from a Tropical Storm for four days straight. I've watched it go from Sunny to Thundering with no rain to sunny. We got a quick shower yesterday, then right back to sunny. I think I got it figured out though, I'm going to just keep the soil moist for the first two weeks three times a day, temperatures should be dropping in the next few days) I'm going to cut the rain to two times a day depending on rain. And slowly reduce from there.
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  #28  
Old 09-10-2013, 12:10 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
As long as the soil underneath the sod is damp, then your good. When you water every day you'll notice that it take's less and less water to make the soil wet, this go's back to gradually cutting back the water, concentrate on getting just enough water down to keep the soil moist and your zoysia sod will be that much farther ahead. Remember, zoysia in the sod stage is delicate and can really benefit from precise water management, but don't let it dry out.
Appreciate that. That's what I'm defiantly going to do. I'm just going to let it take it's course and keep the sod moist. But I see exactly what your talking about. It seems to hold less water each time. I think I'm going to run the experiment and see how much water my Gilmour Impulses are actually putting out then cut back from that rate. It's just been hard and confusing with these silly whether stations lately. They call or a high amount of rain, show were in the middle of the storm (red zone), however I get a few drops, then some sunlight. Over this time, I definitely learned not to depend on the weather or the weather channel, at least in Texas. Can you tell me something? I noticed the sod has started knitting around the edges much quicker? Do you think it's possibly because it's getting more water? (I been hand watering the whole edge of the lawn due to sprinklers missing corners.) But I was going to wait until the 14 day mark to lay the fertilizer app? I also put down compost and organic matter in after I found out my soil was alkaline and the grass is still maintaining a healthy green color. I figure 14 days should be long enough for be to do a quick light fert. app without damaging it from walking on it so much, although it will still be delicate? I think I'm getting the hang of it in everything I learned from you!
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  #29  
Old 09-10-2013, 01:26 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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"Never depend on the weather, it will always let you down"
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  #30  
Old 09-12-2013, 07:14 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Agrostics, what could white on the grass blades be from in one area of the lawn? Some of them are the tip and some like the middle of the grass blades?
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