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  #21  
Old 09-11-2013, 12:13 PM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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My initial reaction to this repair, was , why not use Keen-serts?

But then I realized that there ain't much meat on them bosses, so the home made inserts looked like the only option, no?

Then FBN mentions Time-serts. ( never heard of em before) Now they look thin enough to do the trick.

Anyways, nice repair job!
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  #22  
Old 09-11-2013, 12:42 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Yeah Fish...the backside of the engine block is eggshell thin....
I used a 5/16 drillbit...and drilled almost thru to the crankcase..just to get to thick enough metal to thread..
It should hold up until they find another way to break it...
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  #23  
Old 09-11-2013, 06:25 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Engine blocks are make from brittle cast aluminum...
Has anyone had any luck welding these castings.????
If so...what welding setup did you use...????
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  #24  
Old 09-11-2013, 10:53 PM
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Jeff in AL Jeff in AL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
Yesterday......Our local POS dealer informed me that I would have pay an additional $500 for a replacement engine if I didn't surrender my engine to them...

I have a little history with our "local POS dealer"...about 10 to15 years worth....we don't like each other..
In the 2 yrs since taking this job with this semi large landscaper...purchases which previously averaged $7000 to $10000 a month from our "local POS dealer"....have dropped 90 %.....
I don't want to completely want to stop doing business with them..I like to see them squirm....
Unless there has been a very recent change, that I am unaware of, Kawasaki does NOT want the engine back... But there is a "Certificate of Destruction" form that needs to be filled out COMPLETELY, dated and signed by the Dealer AND the customer... It also states that the Dealer verifies that the engine is "destroyed"... Like I said, I pop a hole in the block, take a picture and send it on. There is no reason why the customer can't keep for parts... After all, it is their engine!

This deal with Kawasaki is one of the dumbest things I have seen/heard of yet... IF the engine wasn't "destroyed" already, why would someone be replacing it to begin with?.....Duh!

I'll check tomorrow and see if this has changed and let you know...
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  #25  
Old 09-11-2013, 10:59 PM
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fatboynormmie fatboynormmie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
Engine blocks are make from brittle cast aluminum...
Has anyone had any luck welding these castings.????
If so...what welding setup did you use...????
Have never welded one but if I were to try, I would start with a mig spoolgun/argon to squirt down into the hole to bring it up just enough to finish off with a tig/argon. The problem is getting enough penetration down in the bottom of the hole to tie the metals together . I know time is money for you. I would find a local tig welding(professional) and stop by and start talking shop. Might be able to barter services. Anybody can stick metal together but a true weldor is an Artisan there is a difference.
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  #26  
Old 09-12-2013, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
Engine blocks are make from brittle cast aluminum...
Has anyone had any luck welding these castings.????
If so...what welding setup did you use...????
The problem with welding cast aluminum motor blocks is not so much the brittleness, but the fact that the metal is usually pretty oily, and you have to take great pains to get the oil out of the base metal. I've never welded any Kaw. blocks, but they look to be a die casting, and prolly not as porous as a sand cast Harley block. Which I've dealt with a lot. We used Tig on those, which is what I would use on the Kaw/small engine blocks.
As Normie said, prolly be way better off to get a welding shop to repair em. Ask them what kind of prep do they want. ( NO wire brushing! )Just try to get em as oil free as possible.
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  #27  
Old 09-12-2013, 01:55 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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Only had one experience with a block repair--an FH500V was loose on the mower frame and had lost the right front mounting bolt. The engine had vibrated so badly that the left front mounting boss was broken off and the engine had lost all oil. I took it to a professional shop and they used a TIG with argon. The guy did a superb job for $20 and the job held through 3 or 4 years until the owner traded mowers.

While I was in a Toro shop, we took a cracked Toro cast aluminum deck to a welding shop but were told that it was to porous to do an effective job.
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  #28  
Old 09-12-2013, 06:45 PM
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fatboynormmie fatboynormmie is offline
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Hey Fish most weldor's won't let you prep due to fear of the wrong cleaners being used. Any chlorinated cleaner becomes lethal when tig welding. Most people would grab brakekleen to clean up oily parts but most are chlorinated . Acetone would be the ideal degreaser and is not lethal. So for safety reasons most will clean the parts themselves.
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  #29  
Old 09-12-2013, 07:00 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Thanx for the input guys....
Looks like its time to invest in a good TIg welder....ouch....
I already have a Lincoln suitcase mig....it has proved invaluable...
I have been borrowing a Miller sync wave Tig to do the stainless work on my smoker...
Its amazing that something the size of a lunchbox can do all that work..
But....I haven't talked myself into getting up off $1200 for a new toy...
I may have to dig into my shed full of Kohler Command engines.....perhaps.....
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  #30  
Old 09-12-2013, 09:22 PM
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fatboynormmie fatboynormmie is offline
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If your going to mess with Aluminum you will need an AC/DC rig with a large amp range . I wouldn't go below a 250 amp machine messing with aluminum. She's gonna be expensive .
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