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  #1  
Old 09-22-2013, 03:44 PM
BlazersandWildcats2009's Avatar
BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Irrigation/Grass Experts

For a grass that requires an inch of water a week, what is your most preferred method of going about supplying the inch a week?

.5 inch two days of the week compared to 1 full inch one day a week.

I'm assuming the roots would grow stronger and deeper being watered 1 full inch a week in one day intervals. Allowing the moisture to go deeper into the soil and drying out allowing the roots to search deeper into the soil for water?

I would love to here the take up on this subject from a few guys!
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2013, 06:10 PM
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gusbuster gusbuster is online now
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its not just watering, but proper cutting techniques, proper mineral supplements, most of all, conditions....soil wind sun weather exct.....


I will always laugh at somebody on the internet that says you only need x amount of water.....yes you can use it as a base line on what to do but it still boils down to what I said above.

The shorter cut grass will need more water. Longer cut grass will need less frequent watering and better to do deep infrequent watering.

So with that said, stop trying to make it more complicated than what it needs to be.. See your what your lawn needs whether it be minerals, watering exct....

What is said is a rule of thumb -a base line. You need to adapt to your actual needs.

John
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:24 AM
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AI Inc AI Inc is offline
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Without knowing the soil structure one can realy do nothing more then guess.
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:31 AM
ArTurf ArTurf is offline
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There is no one size fits all answer. Every yard is different. Take these things in to consideration: Soil type, shade/sun, grass type and more. Different parts of the lawn may need diff amounts of water. Try different things and note how the grass responds. Observe and make adjustments.
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:48 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Your basic water requirements on a per hydrozone (or valve zone) basis assuming no rain inputs, soil moisture content is at field capacity to start with and soil is homogeneous throughout root zone (both current and potential).

Interval: INTz = (AWHC * RZ * MAD) / (ETo * Kl)
INTz = Zone Interval (days)
AWHC = Soil Plant Available Water Holding Capacity (in/foot)
RZ = Root zone depth (feet)
MAD = Management allowable depletion (%)
ETo = reference evapotranspiration (in/day)
Kl = landscape/crop coefficient (%) (see WUCOLS)
Runtime: RTz = [(60 * INTz * ETz) / ARze] * RTM
RTz = Irrigation zone runtime (mins)
INTz = Interval between irrigation events (days)
ETz = Zone adjusted ET (in/day) --> ETz = (ETo * Kl)
ARze = Zone effective application rate (in/hr) --> from catch can audit (most accurate)
RTM = Runtime multiplier (a factor of DU) --> RTM = 100/DULH

Note: Other considerations need to be made here, but this will get you started in the right direction.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:14 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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I guess you are talking about drip line since we can only water once a week with above ground spray system? With drip the answer is giving it a little water about every other day Is best. I have done it both ways.
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:12 PM
txirrigation txirrigation is offline
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What part of Austin are you in? We have a few different kinds of soil... Well soil or rock...
Posted via Mobile Device
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  #8  
Old 09-24-2013, 10:13 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txirrigation View Post
What part of Austin are you in? We have a few different kinds of soil... Well soil or rock...
Posted via Mobile Device
Were in the Round Rock area now. Our soil was actually soil rather than all rocks. However we did have a few n the back. The soil was just really compacted, tilled the whole lawn three inches and also added six yards of loam.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:14 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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ed2hess,

Were in the Round Rock area now. We aren't under any restrictions, but last time I checked you guys are still?
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