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  #1  
Old 10-26-2013, 12:36 PM
Brantley Brantley is offline
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Posts: 65
Scag sw48-16bv clutch problem?

He guys I've been pulled away from my project to help my dad get his scag fixed.

The engine and mower plates with numbers are Sw48-16bv and model# 303776 and code# 97031011 and type# 1046-a2 5429 It is a pull start mower.

It was working great and then the blades started engaging and disengaging. Then the blades stopped engaging. He replaced the blade engage switch and now when you engage it the motor dies no matter how high the throttle is.

Three questions:

1. How should the wires hook to the six prong switch. Looking down at the switch on left is blank, red and white on right is white, blue and yellow in that order from top to bottom. Is that right?

2. When testing the clutch with a ohm meter does it matter which poles you attach the leads to and should it read between 2-4 ohm?

3. How do I test the wire harness?
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  #2  
Old 10-27-2013, 01:26 AM
herler herler is offline
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1. The way to do it is to:
a) Make a diagram of the OLD switch BEFORE disconnecting anything.
b) Disconnecting ONE wire at a time, reconnect said wire(s) to the NEW switch in the exact same way they come off the old one.

Failure to follow that procedure is likely to result in a headache.
Good luck
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  #3  
Old 10-27-2013, 02:24 AM
tigerepairdotcom tigerepairdotcom is offline
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http://www.scag.com/OpManuals/SW/93S...plete01176.pdf

BA-BAM! Users manual with wiring diagram page 26 for your unit! I would read the manual end to end just 4 fun

I cant weigh much on your specific situation but I hope this helps.

also see this thread see if it helps shed some light http://www.perr.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9800

This bit of knowledge specifically helpful. All credit belongs to bgsengine

QUOTE: Also check and verify the ground wire has a good solid, clean connection, check wiring and connectors for any looseness (and separate connectors, check the female terminal ends for fatigue - they can get loose but the connectors remain tight, adding to amps draw.) If you have a voltmeter, and the skill you can do a voltage drop test on the circuit (Ive explained voltage drop a few times in these forums..) which would prove or disprove the wiring - if there is a voltage drop in the system, replacing the clutch may only mask the real issue. Replacement of electric clutch should typically be a "last choice" option unless it is obviously bad.
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Last edited by tigerepairdotcom; 10-27-2013 at 02:29 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-27-2013, 11:14 AM
Brantley Brantley is offline
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The problem is he already took the old switch off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by herler View Post
1. The way to do it is to:
a) Make a diagram of the OLD switch BEFORE disconnecting anything.
b) Disconnecting ONE wire at a time, reconnect said wire(s) to the NEW switch in the exact same way they come off the old one.

Failure to follow that procedure is likely to result in a headache.
Good luck
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  #5  
Old 10-27-2013, 11:15 AM
Brantley Brantley is offline
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The wiring diagram you provided doesn't break down the individual wires for the PTO switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerepairdotcom View Post
http://www.scag.com/OpManuals/SW/93S...plete01176.pdf

BA-BAM! Users manual with wiring diagram page 26 for your unit! I would read the manual end to end just 4 fun

I cant weigh much on your specific situation but I hope this helps.

also see this thread see if it helps shed some light http://www.perr.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9800

This bit of knowledge specifically helpful. All credit belongs to bgsengine

QUOTE: Also check and verify the ground wire has a good solid, clean connection, check wiring and connectors for any looseness (and separate connectors, check the female terminal ends for fatigue - they can get loose but the connectors remain tight, adding to amps draw.) If you have a voltmeter, and the skill you can do a voltage drop test on the circuit (Ive explained voltage drop a few times in these forums..) which would prove or disprove the wiring - if there is a voltage drop in the system, replacing the clutch may only mask the real issue. Replacement of electric clutch should typically be a "last choice" option unless it is obviously bad.
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  #6  
Old 10-29-2013, 10:25 AM
Brantley Brantley is offline
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I'm guessing I have worn out my welcome. If someone has any advice on determining if wiring or clutch is my problem please let me know.
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  #7  
Old 10-29-2013, 12:10 PM
tigerepairdotcom tigerepairdotcom is offline
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You said the old switch worked intermittently right or did it completely stop?

The other thread with the message " Also check and verify the ground wire has a good solid, clean connection, check wiring and connectors for any looseness (and separate connectors, check the female terminal ends for fatigue -"

Did you read that thread... Read it please?

http://www.perr.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9800
http://www.arkansas-ope.com/CLUTCH_TROUBLESHOOTING.html
http://www.fixya.com/tags/test_electric_pto
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It is very important for you to post your results once the problem is solved so that people will be able to reference a solution to their problem down the road. YEARS may go by and someone has the same problem PLEASE POST YOUR "IT WAS FIXED WITH x SOLUTION.
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  #8  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:07 PM
Jeff in AL's Avatar
Jeff in AL Jeff in AL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantley View Post
I'm guessing I have worn out my welcome. If someone has any advice on determining if wiring or clutch is my problem please let me know.
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Brantley,

I'm still not sure how the "wires" would have become mixed up being that they are in a block and that block with wires pushes onto the switch... But...

Anyhoot, I have NO IDEA if this will be the same for your mower, but there is a fairly good chance it should be as most manufacturers stick to the same wire colors for their different harnesses.

Check it and see...
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File Type: pdf Scag Upper Harness.pdf (11.9 KB, 3 views)
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  #9  
Old 10-29-2013, 03:25 PM
Brantley Brantley is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 65
The block broke and the blue yellow and white are loose. My dad removed it and tried to replace it without me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in AL View Post
Brantley,

I'm still not sure how the "wires" would have become mixed up being that they are in a block and that block with wires pushes onto the switch... But...

Anyhoot, I have NO IDEA if this will be the same for your mower, but there is a fairly good chance it should be as most manufacturers stick to the same wire colors for their different harnesses.

Check it and see...
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  #10  
Old 10-29-2013, 04:00 PM
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Sharpcut 1 Sharpcut 1 is offline
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Location: Roseville, MI
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Do you have the toggle switch style or the round button style clutch switch??
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