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  #61  
Old 01-22-2014, 07:09 PM
SDLandscapes VT SDLandscapes VT is offline
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we ve had fewer issues in training from the walkbehind than the Z and certainly less damage/accidents
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  #62  
Old 01-22-2014, 07:18 PM
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Exmarkboy13 Exmarkboy13 is offline
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but how exactly do you teach them to use one?? and how long does it take them to grasp it usually???
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  #63  
Old 01-22-2014, 07:35 PM
SDLandscapes VT SDLandscapes VT is offline
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at the end of one day they have a strong operational knowledge--is the striping perfect, no--that usually takes about a week. Seriously teaching the mower is the easy part--it's teaching the blower and the trimmer that is tougher
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  #64  
Old 01-22-2014, 09:18 PM
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Exmarkboy13 Exmarkboy13 is offline
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ok, probally end up with afew scag swz's, just cause Ive heard the Exmark turf tracers cant take wet grass in a single pass
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  #65  
Old 01-22-2014, 09:28 PM
Church2224 Church2224 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exmarkboy13 View Post
ok, probally end up with afew scag swz's, just cause Ive heard the Exmark turf tracers cant take wet grass in a single pass
If it is really wet then yes it can clump. But from what I have seen in terms of prices Scag SWZs are the same price as Turf Tracers and the Turf Tracer has a Floating Deck and the ECS controls that will save your hands. There are also the Gravely and Toro Floating Deck Hydros I recommend.

Also if you are going over 48" you should get a floating deck hydro mower, it will help with scalping. Not to say the SWZ is a bad unit, it is a well built mower, but IMHO you have better options out there.
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  #66  
Old 01-22-2014, 11:14 PM
ddixon7 ddixon7 is offline
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............
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  #67  
Old 01-22-2014, 11:18 PM
ddixon7 ddixon7 is offline
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Originally Posted by Exmarkboy13 View Post
My only problem with the hydro walk behinds is teaching new helpers how to use them. It seems to be real hard to grasp for them, especially all the explaining "forward speed, neutral switches, what you can and cannot let go of, etc) Then you throw a sulky in there, and wow, it makes it awkward for them to turn and back up. How do you guys teach your new helpers/hires to mow with them. please respond on detail. what exactly do you do, and how do they catch on.
???
First I give them my little 36" since its small and I don't keep a velke on it. I take them behind my house (I live in the country and have a 9 acre field behind my house). I let them figure it out. At first, stopping the mower is a big problem. They try to muscle it. They don't realize that the mower is a heck of a lot stronger than they ever will be. Eventually they will catch on. Letting the triggers out smoothly as to not pop a wheelie is sometimes hard for them to grasp, as is reversing the turning wheel as not to dig with that tire. When I think they are good enough I let them use a mower with a velke. Some guys I just regulate to trimming as they will never be up to my standards...

I usually get guys that have experience though.
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  #68  
Old 01-22-2014, 11:21 PM
ddixon7 ddixon7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDLandscapes VT View Post
at the end of one day they have a strong operational knowledge--is the striping perfect, no--that usually takes about a week. Seriously teaching the mower is the easy part--it's teaching the blower and the trimmer that is tougher
Teaching blowing is the hardest!! I swear... It takes a long time for some people to grasp how to blow in the wind. It frustrates me to no end. Especially on large commercial properties. One would think the blower would be common sense, but no....... Trimming too. How to keep a pattern.
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  #69  
Old 01-23-2014, 01:08 AM
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TPendagast TPendagast is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDLandscapes VT View Post
sulkies probably won't be better. the biggest problem with the standers vs. walkbehinds is the weight--they weight more than the walkbehind and then you load on an operator--with the power still begin the same engines and hydraulics will wear far faster
Hydraulic pumps don't wear faster under weight. That's a misconception of how they work.

A 250 lb or lighter rider, the stander won't even notice the increase in weight.

Those hydro pumps have enough force to crush the entire frame of that mower into a box small enough to fit in the waste basket under your desk.

The tires of a stander are much wider than that of a sulky and therefor the transferred weight to the ground is much less than a rider on a sulky which has one or two small skinny tires and that rider directly on them.

The sulky will rut way more than the stander.

The versatility with a walk behind comes in doing things no stander or rider will ever do, the fact that you can go from velke to walking is good too.

Some standers you can walk behind, but you wont be as efficient walking as you would be with an actual WB.

The most versatile mower in our industry has always been the 36/48" walk behind mower.

But a velke/sulky will rut way more easily than a stand on unit.
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  #70  
Old 01-23-2014, 01:13 AM
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TPendagast TPendagast is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassmasterswilson View Post
Found this setup on Craigslist. What do you think its worth?

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/bfs/4296344034.html
2013 Toro 48 Walk Behinds ($4,000 each = $8000)
2013 Toro 21 Mower ($500)
2013 Echo Weed eaters(2) ($200 each = $400)
2013 Echo Stick edger ($150)
2013 Echo Articulating head pruners ($100)
2013 Echo Backpack blowers(2) ($300 each = $600)
2013 Echo Chainsaw ($250)
2013 Trailer with racks and box ($3800)
Back Pack Sprayers(+chemicals) ($400)
Misc. Items ($50)

Total $14,250.00

Plus or minus 10% depending on your market


I would recommend 48" toro Tbar belt drives to anyone.
I would buy those mowers any time.
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