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  #41  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:26 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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No yellowing. Especially if it is applied with chelated micronutrients and the 1/4 lb or less of N Syngenta tells you to use. I get 30 days out of it. Lawns do get really tight and thick on it. The green color is intensified as well. But I do only use it when needed. That thickening of the lawn is something I watch. Too thick and it is time for a dethatch.
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  #42  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:26 PM
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Florida Gardener Florida Gardener is offline
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I've thought long and hard about primo. In your experience do you get yellowing? And how long do you get growth suppression? I swear buy cuttless and atrimmec on ornamentals like sweet viburnum and buttonwood
I can tell you that I will exclusively be using cutless this year on every property I can.
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  #43  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:29 PM
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I can tell you that I will exclusively be using cutless this year on every property I can.
I liked cuttless a lot. Problem was I had a lot of beds watered with netafim (sp?) and cuttless granules need to be watered in. So I was either going to spread with my vortex during or just prior to rain storms or switch to a foliar. I switched and have had good results
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  #44  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:37 PM
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Florida Gardener Florida Gardener is offline
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Originally Posted by fl-landscapes View Post
I liked cuttless a lot. Problem was I had a lot of beds watered with netafim (sp?) and cuttless granules need to be watered in. So I was either going to spread with my vortex during or just prior to rain storms or switch to a foliar. I switched and have had good results
Yea I have a couple places with netafim.

I have a lot of ixora on properties that the cutless will be great for as this is always hand pruned and can get time consuming in the summer. In fact, most of my places have stuff that needs hand pruning. Stuff that I use the trimmer on is fine as I blow that stuff in the lawn and mulch it up. Plus, those hedges are too big for cutless.
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  #45  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:37 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Granular anything does not work with subsurface or surface drip. Drip was intended to have the fertilizers injected into the lines. Otherwise it is all high volume spray or foliars.
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  #46  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Florida Gardener View Post
Yea I have a couple places with netafim.

I have a lot of ixora on properties that the cutless will be great for as this is always hand pruned and can get time consuming in the summer. In fact, most of my places have stuff that needs hand pruning. Stuff that I use the trimmer on is fine as I blow that stuff in the lawn and mulch it up. Plus, those hedges are too big for cutless.
That's what I thought until I realized if the time saved is worth it on a small scale logic says it's worth it on any scale maybe even more so on large scale. I use the atrimmec on one property with literally thousand of feet of hedges. Most are not near grass but up against buildings so they do need to be raked and barreled out.
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  #47  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:45 PM
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Granular anything does not work with subsurface or surface drip. Drip was intended to have the fertilizers injected into the lines. Otherwise it is all high volume spray or foliars.
Not a big fan of drip. Can't water your inputs in and can't tell if there's a broken line or clogged holes until you see wilt or dying plants. I know it has benefits like less evaporation and less wet foliage to promote leaf spot but overall I like to see my heads pop up and spray.
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  #48  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:54 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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I like that too. I know of plant material that just does better with overhead irrigation. Leaf spot is not going to be increased if irrigation is set for morning. My suggestion is not to irrigate within 4 hours of sunset. That allows time to dry. It is humid enough here, that water during the day time is not lost.
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  #49  
Old 01-09-2014, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
I like that too. I know of plant material that just does better with overhead irrigation. Leaf spot is not going to be increased if irrigation is set for morning. My suggestion is not to irrigate within 4 hours of sunset. That allows time to dry. It is humid enough here, that water during the day time is not lost.
The other problem with drip is, especially in sandy soil where water tends to go straight down, you need to have the line run very close to the root ball of the plant when installed. Over time the roots grow and so does the plant often entangling and bending or tearing the netafim. Alright gents been a long day so I will catch you later.
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  #50  
Old 01-09-2014, 10:15 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Originally Posted by fl-landscapes View Post
That's what I thought until I realized if the time saved is worth it on a small scale logic says it's worth it on any scale maybe even more so on large scale. I use the atrimmec on one property with literally thousand of feet of hedges. Most are not near grass but up against buildings so they do need to be raked and barreled out.
Bigger plantings are very much worth growth regulation. In my town, landscape people pay to dispose of cuttings by weight. Smaller ones are still worth it because of the time savings. People do not see that their small lot with a bazillion shrubs takes time to trim.
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