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  #11  
Old 01-09-2014, 11:50 PM
MRCo. MRCo. is offline
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Also, do not buy carbs from Redmax! Get them ordered direct from Walbro by your shop, saves you around $20 each!
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2014, 11:50 PM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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When I first noticed issues I talked to the dealer and he said that the carb wouldn't be covered? I haven't checked the exhaust port.
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2014, 11:56 PM
MRCo. MRCo. is offline
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Ex port can explain the lack of WOT. Chck the screen and ex port both. What the dealer said is kinda true...fuel related carb issues aren't covered, but since you look after the fuel you use from what you say, if you were my customer I would look harder. Maybe he isn't confident adjusting those carbs...it certainly isn't a party but welp, that's part of being the dealer! You're supposed to be on it.
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2014, 08:05 AM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exmarkking View Post
I haven't checked the exhaust port.
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So let me see If I understand what yer sayin'
In your thread on this very same subject dated 11-12-13, in the VERY FIRST REPLY, Landrus2 suggested you clean the exh. port etc., no?
Now, a couple months later, ya start whinin' about the same issues!
And yet.............." I haven't checked the exhaust port"
Attaboy!!
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2014, 08:13 AM
dboyd351 dboyd351 is online now
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If you know a particular unit that you have rebuilt the carb on, I'd try buying a new carb for that one to see if it fixes things. If possible, get an adjustable carb replacement, so in the future you can adjust it. If the new carb fixes it, but the rebuild didn't, you've learned something - your rebuild isn't working, but a new carb is.
I don't know how you are rebuilding carbs, but there are a couple of things that might make a difference:
1) spray out the passages with carb cleaner -this can clean out holes you can't get to
2) Buy an ultrasonic carb cleaner and run the disassembled carb thru that several times, with a few drops of dishwashing liquid, or a degreaser on the water. You might be surprised what comes out
3) Seal the welch plugs with fingernali polish or indian head shellac before putting the carb back together
4) Check the height of the needle valve and adjust if not correct.
5) Make sure you put the diaphragms/gaskets back in the correct order. Laying them out carefully or having an IPL in front of you during re-assembly will help with this.

Also, check muffler screens and exhaust ports for carbon build-up, check for soft or blocked fuel lines and fuel filters, dirty air filters or spark plugs. Tygon is good replacement fuel line that isn't affected by ethanol.

Loose screws on the intake, or a leaking gasket can cause it to bog, too, but this shouldn't be happening on all of them at once.

Look for a gas station that sells non-ethanol gas at "puregas.org".

I would take one machine and methodically go through all these things until you discover the problem, then apply that knowledge to all of them.

Sometimes you can get a replacement carb on fleaBay or a small engine supplier far cheaper than at your local dealer. I've bought a brand new carb for a Stihl MS250 for less than $20 that way. You may find out the new carb is cheaper than the cost of a rebuild kit, plus your time.

Would still be helpful to go thru a machine one step at a time to help you figure out what is wrong.
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2014, 08:22 AM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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Good advise. I may be stubborn but I haven't checked the exhaust port only because in my mind I don't see that being the problem because I remove the screens anytime we get a piece of equipment, and the equipment is always ran at full throttle, with good oil. I could definitely be wrong though.
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2014, 12:01 AM
MRCo. MRCo. is offline
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Screen or not, the ex port can still block. Idea, double check you got the exact correct plugs or them too.
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  #18  
Old 01-11-2014, 07:35 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exmarkking View Post
Good advise. I may be stubborn but I haven't checked the exhaust port only because in my mind I don't see that being the problem because I remove the screens anytime we get a piece of equipment, and the equipment is always ran at full throttle, with good oil. I could definitely be wrong though.
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My 2 strokes get clogged ports all the time, it is a maintenance item wih me. Screen always out before it goes to workers.
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  #19  
Old 01-11-2014, 07:51 PM
windflower windflower is online now
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I haven't had these issues since switching to pure gas. Expensive oil helps also. http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=GA Don't know where you are, maybe one of these stations is near you. Seafoam helps clean things up.
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2014, 03:05 PM
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jkilov jkilov is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy-lift guy View Post
You can thank The EPA and CG. Hand held Equipment I believe will never be the same again.
He is absolutely correct. Thank the EPA and the big endorsing company that made it happen and then split.

The problem with nearly all 2-strokes these days is they barely run. These engines are so on the edge, i.e. finely balanced that anything upsets their running.

A small air leak, dirty filter, slightly clogged carb, plugged exhaust and the engine doesn't run anymore. It's not that Walbro makes bad carbs, nor Redmax bad engines, but there's just no reserve when tuning them like with older equipment.

I'm positive if the original poster tunes up his engines all round, they will run again (for another year) after which it will be the same old story. I believe 2-strokes are way better for handheld equipment, but the 4-strokes I have bought are less fiddly and have a lot more "reserve" before going out of whack.
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