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  #31  
Old 02-05-2014, 03:24 PM
Bob MacGregor Bob MacGregor is offline
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Location: Oakdale, CT
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Some Zama and Walbro carbs can be adjusted on the high speed side. All my own equipment both Stihl and Husqvarna have been adjusted to run better at high speed and under load.
Zama makes thousands of small engine carbs for most manufacturers. Sometimes they screw up, been there with some Zama carbs. Although made by Zama, the carbs on my Stihl equipment are more sensitive to stale fuel than my Husqvarna equipment, not sure why. Not much Red Max equipment around my area, never had any in for service.
I retired as an aircraft mech a few years ago and the company was fined by the Feds for selling AV Gas to non aviation folk. Big dollar fine and court appearance, not nice!!! No doubt AV Gas is more stable than Auto Gas, however the octane ratings are arrived at by two different formulas which results in 100 LL Av Gas having a higher than 100 octane when compared to Auto Gas octane ratings.
This carb thing on small engines just doesn't want to go away, not sure what the answer is, but for sure it will get worse if the Feds push up the ethanol to 15%!!! Auto Gas is already a "cracked" product from what it used to be years back. In other words it acts like gasoline for the most part, but it is no longer gasoline in the pure sense as refineries "stretch it" to increase profitability.
Bob MacGregor in CT
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  #32  
Old 02-05-2014, 04:12 PM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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I totally agree. I think my issue is a matter of fuel, carb and the EPA. They just don't run good anymore. It is the ethanol, and the way they tune the carbs from the factory. Also the fact. That they isn't hardly any adjustment on the carbs anymore. I think it's going to be a constant battle for us guys running small / stroke engines.
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  #33  
Old 02-05-2014, 07:00 PM
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rob7233 rob7233 is offline
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IMHO It's def. a fuel issue and that is the ethanol in the fuel related. Alcohol is a great cleaner and drying agent among other things. I don't think running them dry after alcohol/Ethanol is a wise practice anymore.

I use Marine Grade Stabil always and I don't care how long the fuel going to last.
You really think you're always buying up to 10% Ethanol content in your fuel??

One of the local shop owners here went around town with test kits and found the gas was anywhere from 8% up to 17% ethanol content !! I look at using the M/G Stabil like having a condom for my equipment ... never know when it might save your/it's life.

Best if you can try to get E-free gas. Go to PURE-GAS.org and look up your State and city for nearby locations.
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  #34  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:36 PM
Bob MacGregor Bob MacGregor is offline
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No doubt that the amount of ethanol in gasoline varies greatly, it isn't a whole lot different from the previous crap as it separates from the gasoline, attracts water and burns at a different rate and temp than the gasoline into which it is mixed. Several years ago I was hauling a trailer that weighed 9,400 LBs and fueled at a Sheets gas station in York, PA and I got the worst load of gasoline that I can remember. My V10 E350 Ford van started clattering to the point that I thought it was coming apart as I headed to Harrisburg. A 35 gallon tank with an anti-syphon valve installed was no easy task to empty out, but I got about half of it out, but I won't say where it went!!! I bought all the octane booster that a local auto parts store had, poured it in and topped off with 93 at the only gas station that I could get into with the trailer still connected. When I got home I called my cousin who was still working at a New Jersey refinery and he told me the sorry truth about the early blending methods that were used at the gasoline distribution centers.
Being a retired mech with engine experience dating back to the 50s, it is my opinion that running carbs dry is the better solution as I still do service work on power equipment and do limited commercial lawn care in season. I have opened some tiny carbs that had dried out and put kits into some and replaced others. Running them out and pumping the primer to clear out most of the remaining fuel from the tiny carbs works for me. I drain the carbs on my larger power equipment engines and I have drilled and tapped drain holes in several carb bowls. If the marine StaBil formula works for you that's OK. As MTBE and then ethanol was mixed into gasoline, the only StaBil available was the red stuff which didn't do the job. I've never used the marine formula as Star Tron, Sea Foam, and ValvTect Carbon Free is now my group of what I call "Dr. John"!!! Red StaBil does have a shelf life and when it goes bad it gets nasty, don't know about the marine formula.
Years back as a marine mech, I dealt with muscle boats and large gasoline engine powered power boats and poured in lots of StaBil as boats got stored with full fuel tanks, some with 400-500 gallon fuel systems. For a while we were able to get StaBil in one and five gallon containers, then the shipping rules were put into effect.By now bottled water is probably considered hazardous material!!!

Last edited by Bob MacGregor; 02-05-2014 at 08:39 PM. Reason: more info
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  #35  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:46 PM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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I agree with what your saying but how often do you do this? I drain mine in the winter for a month or two at most because we still work thru the winter. I emptied the tank and pumped the primer until it was dry and cranked it up until it wouldn't run any longer. I did that about the firs week of dec and by the second week of jan I was working again. Down here in the south we don't get much cold weather.
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  #36  
Old 02-05-2014, 09:25 PM
Bob MacGregor Bob MacGregor is offline
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I'm usually done for the season by the end of November and don't get going until March, or April. This included two ZTRs, a wood chipper, generator, trimmers, blowers, hedge trimmers, chainsaws and trim push mowers. My GT stays fueled all year and it pushed lots of wet snow today.
I would use Star Tron enzyme fuel treatment year round and ValvTect carbon free in your mixed fuel machines. Three weeks ago I finally got around to do my small equipment to get it out of my trailer so I could use it for other purposes, so I drag my tail sometimes, but my big machines were drained and stored in Nov to include the fuel tanks.
I tore up my right shoulder again so I put off doing the pull start machines until I was up to it.
In season, my equipment is stored in a closed cargo trailer which gets hot inside in warmer weather. This high temp environment causes fuel to evaporate quicker which it now already does with ethanol in it. Untreated gasoline has gone bad in 4 weeks in my trailers one of which is dark blue and gets hotter inside than my white trailer does.
I would leave treated fuel in your machines year round, and use the manufacturers own 2 stroke oil. 89 octane is usually the minimum recommended by most manufacturers, but always consult the operators manual for specifics. Possibly your Red Max equipment may have a bad batch of carbs, I've had this problem with Zama carbs over the years, but not many Walbro carbs.
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  #37  
Old 02-05-2014, 09:45 PM
Bob MacGregor Bob MacGregor is offline
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You may want to try the marine formula of StaBil which has been commented on. I would use it at the operational use mixture, but I like Star Tron and was using it before the marine StaBil came out.
I have had more pickup trucks than I can remember, most of which were diesel Ford F350s and one F450 and used diesel fuel additives faithfully in addition to engine oil additives, so I am well disciplined to use additives.
Years back I owned a 1978 Peterbilt/triple sleeper with a 425 Cat, and I fired two drivers that were too lazy to get the additive out of the locker and put it in when refueling, this truck usually did coast to coast runs with two drivers. Different purpose for the diesel additives than storage.
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  #38  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:21 PM
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rob7233 rob7233 is offline
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StarTron is a good product also but the Marine Grade Stabil can be had at Lowe's for $8.97 and for the money will go farther than the StarTron.

The real long term answer for most, is avoid E-10 and try to find a pure gas source. For some that's easier said than done.

However, I do use some "old school" Shindaiwa trimmers and blowers (EB630,T260,T27,T270) and haven't had a single fuel/carb issue in seven years.
Yeah, it's out of the way to get pure gas but I save time, trouble and down time & shop charges. Again go to PURE-GAS.org and see whats near you.
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  #39  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:13 PM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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Do you think it's worth getting pure gas? I have a station that is a little further away that sales 89 octane pure gas?
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  #40  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:15 PM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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I should re word it. I know it's worth it but from a business stand point, the drive time and extra cost for our fuel. I think the station is about 7 miles up the road from where I usually fuel up
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