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  #1  
Old 02-01-2014, 02:01 PM
teckjohn teckjohn is offline
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Kawasaki 23 25 HP FH680 FH721 Engine rebuild rebuilt

Just some pictures of a Kawasaki 23 25 HP FH680 FH721 Engine rebuild rebuilt













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  #2  
Old 02-01-2014, 05:34 PM
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Landrus2 Landrus2 is offline
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Looking good John
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2014, 07:09 PM
sjessen sjessen is online now
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John, What is a fair price for a complete rebuild on an engine of this type?

Thanks.
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:03 PM
teckjohn teckjohn is offline
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Thank you Landrus2. Depends on whether your rods are slung and block is still good. Depends on if your guides are still in the head. Heads are 200 each and my kit is 300 and then you have machine shop labor. So you might have to be bored @ 40 a hole, Block surfaced. could be anywhere from rering and gaskets to needing a 200 crank. Cam could be broke? Block alone with no side cover is $800. Could be anywhere from $500 to $1200
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:17 PM
sjessen sjessen is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teckjohn View Post
Thank you Landrus2. Depends on whether your rods are slung and block is still good. Depends on if your guides are still in the head. Heads are 200 each and my kit is 300 and then you have machine shop labor. So you might have to be bored @ 40 a hole, Block surfaced. could be anywhere from rering and gaskets to needing a 200 crank. Cam could be broke? Block alone with no side cover is $800. Could be anywhere from $500 to $1200
Reason for asking is I have a 23 hp Kawi with 5600 hours on the original engine. Its gonna go sometime just not sure when. Most likely the compression will get too low to start although the tech at my dealer said it is good for another season.
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2014, 09:20 PM
teckjohn teckjohn is offline
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Awesome job on getting over 5000 hours

you have taken very good care of your equipment! there are not many shops that rebuild engines. they have all become parts changers
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2014, 09:33 PM
twomancrew twomancrew is online now
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How do you go about getting the blast media out of the nooks and crannies like the seam where the valve guide meets the head? I ask because I grew up as a helper-boy at a hugh bike shop. I did a lot of blasting and the head mechanic was always pissy about that. Like I knew any better. As I got older and was the mechanic I too had a heck of a time with it. I spent needless hours over the years with a pick and a light and a loupe. It looks like you leave the valves in when you are blasting? I can see the studs are left in. As a kid I had to pull studs and dowels put in dummy bolts and all that as prep work before blasting.

Personally I would rather have a carbon trail down the ports than have to mess with the clean-up from blasting. What's it going to matter after 10 hours anyway? Do you know what I mean? We blasted with glass and soda most of the time.
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:40 PM
sjessen sjessen is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teckjohn View Post
you have taken very good care of your equipment! there are not many shops that rebuild engines. they have all become parts changers
Thanks. I've had better results with this engine than some others. Have not done anything special over the years other than change the oil at 25-35 hours, change air and fuel filters, keep the fins clean and at the first sign of an oil leak take it in to be repaired before more damage can occur.

The dealer I use does not do rebuilds. It may be a lack of expertise on their part. The 2 year warranty on a new engine is nice to have even though it does cost more.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:19 AM
teckjohn teckjohn is offline
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At twomancrew

that would be a question for the machine shop. I don't do the head work. When I get them back valves are already in the heads. and from my pics I find it hard to tell if studs were left in.

Last edited by teckjohn; 02-02-2014 at 09:23 AM.
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2014, 09:29 AM
teckjohn teckjohn is offline
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sjessen

pulling the tins off the heads and cleaning fins will definitely extend the life of your engine. because when the fins get clogged the cylinders cant cool and they overheat, seize a piston and sling a rod through the block. the flat non commercial air filter if famous for the stripping of the nut and allows sand under the air filter and eats the rings.
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