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  #11  
Old 01-23-2014, 03:44 PM
djagusch djagusch is offline
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Why do people take most likely a perfectly good engine without doing all the basic checks?
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2014, 04:14 PM
TheSandman TheSandman is offline
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Why do people take most likely a perfectly good engine without doing all the basic checks?
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I did all the basic checks. Spark fuel choke. Vavles weren't stuck either. Then Thought maybe the timing could be off so I checked that next.
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2014, 04:46 PM
djagusch djagusch is offline
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I did all the basic checks. Spark fuel choke. Vavles weren't stuck either. Then Thought maybe the timing could be off so I checked that next.
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Compression would the 3rd thing to check. Got spark? Yep. Spray ether does it fire? No. Check compression. reading the plugs would tell the tale also.
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2014, 10:52 PM
pugs pugs is offline
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Why are you even in the bottom end?

Basic checks would include Compression and Leakdown tests. Opening up a crankcase because an engine wont start is just a tad well more like a huge amount insane.
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  #15  
Old 01-25-2014, 02:51 PM
jb3199 jb3199 is offline
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Definitely check the compression. The one other check that was previously mentioned, but I strongly recommend, is to check the valve clearance. The FB460s were notorious for exhaust valve wear, and would fall out of tolerance. It is easy to check, and often the cause of hard/non starting issues.
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  #16  
Old 01-27-2014, 07:50 PM
herler herler is online now
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Sorry but I don't tear engines apart like that over minor issues, and if I have eliminated all the minor issues and it still isn't running I am still not tearing it apart unless I have really good reason to believe there is something horribly wrong with it... Because once we tear into it like that, there's no telling if that thing's ever going to run again.

Because it is a Kawasaki, even old ones are usually still worth their weight in gold.
Well, not quite, but almost!

Unfortunately the FB460v is a really good (and discontinued) engine, these are the kind of things I look into before tearing into it because the parts for that thing are becoming difficult to find... Just for example I can't say with certainty whether the gasket for that removed engine cover is in stock, and how much one costs if it is still available...

So, now if you can't get it back together you're looking at a sub-standard generic replacement?

There are some folks seem to be unloading these on ebay, you might find a decent used one for $300 ...

Last edited by herler; 01-27-2014 at 07:55 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-27-2014, 08:18 PM
TheSandman TheSandman is offline
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Fair enough I was pissed at the dam thing that day so I jumped the gun! Ordered a snap on compression tester. How do I go about checking the exhaust valve clearance?
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2014, 08:49 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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Fair enough I was pissed at the dam thing that day so I jumped the gun! Ordered a snap on compression tester. How do I go about checking the exhaust valve clearance?
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Try getting service manual on line. There is a little plate that can be removed and that is where you insert feeler gages.
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2014, 08:49 PM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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Look, man, you need to get ya a manual here:http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawa...epair-Manuals/
Study the dam thing, take two aspirin, and call somebody in the morning! ( not me!)
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  #20  
Old 01-28-2014, 03:13 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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Originally Posted by BigFish View Post
Look, man, you need to get ya a manual here:http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawa...epair-Manuals/
Study the dam thing, take two aspirin, and call somebody in the morning! ( not me!)
Thanks for providing a link
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Last year I was working on one where I had to remove the valves and grind the stem off to get clearance so valves closed. Once I got that fixed then I found that pressure in leak test was getting past the rings.
I boxed the unit for future fun.
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