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  #11  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:02 PM
sharperimagelawns sharperimagelawns is offline
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Whats everyones thoughts on tubing vs. angle iron side rails on trailers. I know some ppl who insist that it has to be tubing to be a "good" trailer, and others who couldn't care less.
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  #12  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:20 PM
JCLawn and more's Avatar
JCLawn and more JCLawn and more is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharperimagelawns View Post
Whats everyones thoughts on tubing vs. angle iron side rails on trailers. I know some ppl who insist that it has to be tubing to be a "good" trailer, and others who couldn't care less.
Mine is C channel. If its thick enough it doesn't matter
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  #13  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:26 PM
ducnut ducnut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLTurfmanagement View Post
I currently have a 16'' trailer and am considering purchasing a 20'. My plan is to have it built to my specs which are as followed: 20''x7-8'', double axel w/1 brake, 5 ft. back gate, 16'' on center cross-members underneath. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Also do you think 20'' is too big for an equipment trailer?
Quote:
Originally Posted by STLTurfmanagement View Post
That's the plan, right now I have a 16x6.5 and everything fits but it's really crammed in there and there's absolutely no room for anything else. I'd ideally like to fit my 52 walk, 36 walk, 61 ztr, and possibly a 21 on it
I don't see much issue with pulling a 20'. It won't be much different than what you already have and your vehicle won't even notice it.

My concern is if that's enough length. Are you OK with how you're currently loading things? Or, would you prefer the ease of just running everything straight on and not side loading anything? You've mentioned you don't like climbing over everything.

Are you doing away with your current side ramp?

I really like the high sides you have now. Are you reducing the height, to ease side loading stuff?

It'd be cool if you could just add a platform, over the tongue jack area, on the front of your current trailer for your 21". If you're going to keep your current load program, an extra 4' isn't going to be much help. I guess, you could run your 36" straight on and run the 21" in beside it. But, I don't see 4' being a huge difference over what you have.

An 8' width opens up more possibilities with loading. But, it's a huge difference on neighborhood streets. Also, you'll have to pay closer attention on the expressways, as it's much easier to stray out of your lane. That's part of the reason why I stuck with a 7' width.

Definitely, 16"OC for your crossmembers. That'll pay off with long-term durability of your deck and the overall trailer.

I'd even add a few extra supports to your gate. It'll better support the mesh, for the long-term. I'm guessing, you'll be adding a gate assist, since you're looking at a 5' length.

I'd get brakes on both axles. You'll be spreading the braking load over 4 drums. You can reduce the juice from your brake controller, which will load the brakes less, which extends their life. Plus, having more than enough braking capacity is much safer. When I-270 goes from 70mph to a dead-stop, you'll be glad for the extra braking ability.

Look into 225/75 tires. They're a bit taller than 205/75 and need a 6" rim, so the fenders may need to be positioned to accommodate them. 225s are available in higher load capacity than 205s (2830lbs vs 1810lbs). Maxxis make a 10-ply in a 225. They'll give you more safety margin and contribute to less blowouts. A heavier tire has less tendency to sway, because of their stiffer construction.

Don't forget about rack options, tool boxes, 2" coupler versus 2-5/16" coupler, etc. There are different lighting options that aren't so vulnerable as the basic trailer taillight, too.
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  #14  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:30 PM
ducnut ducnut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharperimagelawns View Post
Whats everyones thoughts on tubing vs. angle iron side rails on trailers. I know some ppl who insist that it has to be tubing to be a "good" trailer, and others who couldn't care less.
Depends. If the tube is completely welded shut, no air leaks, they can condensate and rust from the inside, out. That's why bicycles are constructed with "vent" holes in their tubes. C-channel is an issue of the manufacturer using heavy enough material, as tube is stronger.
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'13 Hustler X-ONE, 60", Kohler ECV749 EFI
'05 Hustler FasTrak, 42", Honda GXV530
'13 Toro Timemaster 30"
'02 Lawn Boy SilverPro 21"
Stihl BR600 blower
Stihl BG55 blower
Stihl FS55R trimmer
Stihl KM55R Kombi system
Stihl MS180C chain saw
Stihl HS45 hedge trimmer
RedMax Reciprocator
Echo SRM225 trimmer
Echo GT-2000 trimmer
Gravely WB edger
Husqvarna 580BTS blower
'06 Chevrolet Silverado
'13 Bravo Star, 7'X12', V-nose
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  #15  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:37 PM
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looperlawn looperlawn is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hills of Tennessee
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20' trailer

I have a 20' but a gooseneck can turn it in tighter places. I love it. I have two green ztrs with collection systems. Or can put two ztrs without collection and a wb no problems. It is tube frame, 5' gate with gorilla lift, mesh box, trimmer racks,alum.truck box,And a ele.winch on the front. It has 24" crosses,9000 lbs cap. Brakes all around six lug wheels. I got it ready for work around $3000
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  #16  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:54 PM
STLTurfmanagement STLTurfmanagement is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
I don't see much issue with pulling a 20'. It won't be much different than what you already have and your vehicle won't even notice it.

My concern is if that's enough length. Are you OK with how you're currently loading things? Or, would you prefer the ease of just running everything straight on and not side loading anything? You've mentioned you don't like climbing over everything.

Are you doing away with your current side ramp?

I really like the high sides you have now. Are you reducing the height, to ease side loading stuff?

It'd be cool if you could just add a platform, over the tongue jack area, on the front of your current trailer for your 21". If you're going to keep your current load program, an extra 4' isn't going to be much help. I guess, you could run your 36" straight on and run the 21" in beside it. But, I don't see 4' being a huge difference over what you have.

An 8' width opens up more possibilities with loading. But, it's a huge difference on neighborhood streets. Also, you'll have to pay closer attention on the expressways, as it's much easier to stray out of your lane. That's part of the reason why I stuck with a 7' width.

Definitely, 16"OC for your crossmembers. That'll pay off with long-term durability of your deck and the overall trailer.

I'd even add a few extra supports to your gate. It'll better support the mesh, for the long-term. I'm guessing, you'll be adding a gate assist, since you're looking at a 5' length.

I'd get brakes on both axles. You'll be spreading the braking load over 4 drums. You can reduce the juice from your brake controller, which will load the brakes less, which extends their life. Plus, having more than enough braking capacity is much safer. When I-270 goes from 70mph to a dead-stop, you'll be glad for the extra braking ability.

Look into 225/75 tires. They're a bit taller than 205/75 and need a 6" rim, so the fenders may need to be positioned to accommodate them. 225s are available in higher load capacity than 205s (2830lbs vs 1810lbs). Maxxis make a 10-ply in a 225. They'll give you more safety margin and contribute to less blowouts. A heavier tire has less tendency to sway, because of their stiffer construction.

Don't forget about rack options, tool boxes, 2" coupler versus 2-5/16" coupler, etc. There are different lighting options that aren't so vulnerable as the basic trailer taillight, too.
Most informative response so far. Thank you very much for your in-detail response, I plan on keeping my trailer for another crew to use as we expand, and I had the two foot mesh sides to use as a "multi-use" trailer because it's the only open one I have. However, with the additional trailer I plan on only using it for hauling equipment. Also the 2 ft sides make my trimmer racks, bp racks, and cooler rack sit an additional foot up in the air making it harder to reach everything when you're a 5'10'' guy. and it's easier to back units up on the trailer or park them sideways when you don't have two foot to work around. As for my other responses I decided to go with the 16'' cross members ($80 difference than going 36'' on center) As for the side gate I decided to not do that on this one because honestly I don't use it enough. I used it in the past to pull my 21'' and 32'' off the side but now they're in a separate trailer so all the bigger units can be dedicated to the 20', I'll look into the tires as well last year we went through 2 sets which sounds crazy but then again I was pulling this trailer through alleys, and all over downtown STL which was hell on the tires (another reason why I bought the smaller enclosed).
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  #17  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:54 PM
twomancrew twomancrew is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharperimagelawns View Post
Whats everyones thoughts on tubing vs. angle iron side rails on trailers. I know some ppl who insist that it has to be tubing to be a "good" trailer, and others who couldn't care less.
Pound fer pound tubing is much stronger than angle. You can build a much stronger trailer from tube than you can angle when the material weight is the same. Tube is more expensive. Thin tubing is strong but difficult to weld properly to keep the strength in the corners and seems. Not impossible but not for hobbyist. Tubing really should be engineered and not homebuilt.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Young's_modulus
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  #18  
Old 01-31-2014, 01:01 PM
STLTurfmanagement STLTurfmanagement is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Imperial, MO
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as for towing capability of the truck..it's a 7.3, It won't cause any additional wear and tear on the truck I'm pretty sure I'm rated at over 15,000 lbs of towing capacity if not even more.
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  #19  
Old 01-31-2014, 01:05 PM
ducnut ducnut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLTurfmanagement View Post
Most informative response so far. Thank you very much for your in-detail response, I plan on keeping my trailer for another crew to use as we expand, and I had the two foot mesh sides to use as a "multi-use" trailer because it's the only open one I have. However, with the additional trailer I plan on only using it for hauling equipment. Also the 2 ft sides make my trimmer racks, bp racks, and cooler rack sit an additional foot up in the air making it harder to reach everything when you're a 5'10'' guy. and it's easier to back units up on the trailer or park them sideways when you don't have two foot to work around. As for my other responses I decided to go with the 16'' cross members ($80 difference than going 36'' on center) As for the side gate I decided to not do that on this one because honestly I don't use it enough. I used it in the past to pull my 21'' and 32'' off the side but now they're in a separate trailer so all the bigger units can be dedicated to the 20', I'll look into the tires as well last year we went through 2 sets which sounds crazy but then again I was pulling this trailer through alleys, and all over downtown STL which was hell on the tires (another reason why I bought the smaller enclosed).
Sounds like you're on the up-and-up. Good for you!
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1st Class Lawn Service

'13 Hustler X-ONE, 60", Kohler ECV749 EFI
'05 Hustler FasTrak, 42", Honda GXV530
'13 Toro Timemaster 30"
'02 Lawn Boy SilverPro 21"
Stihl BR600 blower
Stihl BG55 blower
Stihl FS55R trimmer
Stihl KM55R Kombi system
Stihl MS180C chain saw
Stihl HS45 hedge trimmer
RedMax Reciprocator
Echo SRM225 trimmer
Echo GT-2000 trimmer
Gravely WB edger
Husqvarna 580BTS blower
'06 Chevrolet Silverado
'13 Bravo Star, 7'X12', V-nose
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  #20  
Old 01-31-2014, 01:10 PM
STLTurfmanagement STLTurfmanagement is offline
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I'm trying to be, once it warms up I'd like to start a thread and show some pictures of the work we do, our equipment, etc. Once I get this new trailer I'll post it to the thread
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