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  #21  
Old 04-15-2014, 09:00 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,309
Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_town60608 View Post
I'm working on my design and have a couple of questions.

How do I get drip from one bed to another? For example, in the drawing, you can see the patio on the back of the house. There is a flower bed on both sides of the opening from the back patio to the back yard. That opening is concrete and roughly 6 feet wide. There is also a flower bed in the bottom left of the picture. I'd prefer to water these all in the same drip zone, but I've went through like 40 pages of posts and their subsequent posts, but can't find pictures or an explanation as to how to do this. The only way I have come up with doing it is to run an 1804 to each bed and then use the RB pop-up converter in each bed. I'm positive there have to be other ways of doing this which explains this post.

For the drip zone(s), do any of you have a preference on zone valve to use? Or, do you have a brand and/or model that you will NOT use again after experience?

Thanks again guys!

chi_town
What TXI said ... run a pvc main lateral and tee off that to drip header locations. Choice of valve matters not, as long as it can handle the (low) flow. If you have more than a couple of drip zones, it is cheaper and cleaner to install a filter for the entire valve group and/or system. Since you are coming off a well, you might consider (and I would recommend) running a single filter for the entire system.

Use something like Netafim Techline CV, which utilizes a pressure compensating dripper in the line. Look on their site for design specs. I highly recommend a grid when drip irrigating anything other than discrete plantings.
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2014, 03:34 PM
chi_town60608 chi_town60608 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 15
Can't get DU

Okay guys, I've sat down with my wife and we walked the back yard to decide what future landscaping she wants done. With that in mind, I've come up with a backyard design that is nearly impossible for me to get the sprinkler head placement in order. I have no problem getting it all wet, but I'm sure the DU is not close. I don't have any fancy software to find out, but I think I wanna leave this aspect to the experts. I REALLY want to install the system myself. But I want the layout to be done right. So, what would you guys suggest? I could always go for the RB design service, but it would include a bunch of stuff I can figure out myself and I also would like to use MP Rotators which obviously wouldn't be included in their design. If an HO came to you and asked you to do their sprinkler head layout, would any of you consider it? On that note, any volunteers to throw an estimate my way on what you'd charge to just do my sprinkler layout for me? I'm up for suggestions.

Below is the new layout. It's only the back yard. I will also need a layout design for my front yard. I've been working on this dang back yard and haven't even got the measurements to graph out the front yet.



The yellow boxes are structures, gray areas are non-watered, and brown is drip.

Thanks all!

chi_town
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  #23  
Old 04-23-2014, 03:37 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
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That looks like fun
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  #24  
Old 04-24-2014, 08:35 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Location: District 9 CA
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Lot of zones .... easily 12+ .... start with adding contour lines, north arrow, wind patterns/direction, environmental hydrozones, soil type for each hydrozone (including confining layers if present), estimated hydrozone exposure throughout the day, appropriate plant choices for the hydrozones.
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2014, 08:56 PM
chi_town60608 chi_town60608 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 15
Alright, here you go:

Average monthly wind speeds:

Jan - 12.5
Feb - 13.1
March - 14.3
April - 14.2
May - 12.5
June - 11.8
July - 10.8
August - 10.4
Sept - 10.8
October - 11.7
November - 12.3

The wind is almost always coming out of the south/southwest to the north/northeast.

All grass areas will receive full sunshine from about 9:30 AM until 6:00 PM.

Our soil is sandy throughout. I can do the detergent and water in a jar thing if you'd like, but I assure you, it is sandy.

I've roughly drawn the contour lines in on the property. It pretty much boils down to everything drains to the northwest corner. The northwest corner is obviously the lowest point, the south east corner is the highest.



If you have any other questions or need me to clarify anything, feel free.

Thanks!

chi_town
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  #26  
Old 05-02-2014, 10:41 AM
chi_town60608 chi_town60608 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 15
Front Yard

Here is the front yard. It is much more straight forward than the back yard. The yellow circles are large Crape Myrtles. They are thick and will stop any water from going through them. The light blue circle is a very large tree that will knock down any water stream over approx. 6 foot and higher. The trunk is about 2-2 1/2 feet in diameter. The edges of the circle marks the landscaping brick and will be drip inside it. The little rectangle at the South (bottom) end is our mailbox. It is brick and about 5 ft x 3 ft and 5 ft tall. Gray area is concrete and house (brick) and the brown is drip areas. The flower beds around the house are about 4 feet wide. Each square on the graph is approx. 2 ft.

The red horizontal line marks where the elevation begins to slope downward to the bottom of the property. It is probably about a 3 foot drop from that point to the entrance of the driveway.

Lastly, I'm not sure I've mentioned this, but there will be a mainline loop around the property. I can mark where the BFP, Master Valve and tee of the loop are planned if needed.



Thanks again!

chi_town
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  #27  
Old 05-03-2014, 10:53 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,309
If your low elevation is north-west, your contour lines are backwards. Check the USGS for a DEM for your location.

http://earthexplorer.usgs.gov/

Wind blowing across the slope .... any significant wind breaks (trees) that will impact wind characteristics in the lawn area? If not, you will want to adjust spacing to accommodate wind drift. You can run a test with your sprinkler choice to see how significantly the pattern will distort at your average wind speed, then adjust your pattern layout to accommodate. Don't over compensate! You will also want to consider how wind drift from lawn sprinklers will impact bordering beds and accommodate with both drip design and plant choices.
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