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  #1  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:23 AM
greendave greendave is offline
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Kawasaki FH580V blows charge fuses

I've got a 2 year old Ferris with a 19 horse Kaw that has started blowing fuses in rapid order. Problem started about a month ago when both Key and Charge fuses blew at once while I was mowing. A few weeks went by and it did it again. Now, I can mow for about 10 minutes and they blow. Here's what I've discovered: It's engine temperature related, although I know the engine is not overheating. The Key fuse blows first, and of course everything shuts down. I can replace the Key fuse, and THEN the Charge fuse will blow. I have checked the harnesses; they are well protected and there is no chafing. If I disconnect the charge coil two wire connector from the rectifier, the fuse blowing stops. Naturally, my battery goes dead after a while and I have to charge it. I'm down to three thoughts: 1: The charge coil itself is shorting, 2: The charge coil harness is chafed (under the top cover somewhere) and shorting or 3: The rectifier is bad. Anyone else been here and done that? I called the place where I bought it and they seemed clueless as to what was going on. Trying to avoid taking this to the shop where I lose use of it for several days.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:23 PM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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Is the slide-on connector a snug fit on the regulator? Is the AC output OK?
Is the DC output OK? Did you check all the ground connections, including all the harness grounds?
Could be a bad Key switch also.
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:40 AM
greendave greendave is offline
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I did some more checking yesterday. The charge coil shows 27 volts AC at full throttle hot and cold, even when it is in fuse blowing mode. Ohmed the coil, it reads the same hot or cold. Also, there is no short to ground on the charge coil hot or cold. I've checked the grounds, coil connections at the rectifier and fuse holder connections as well, everything looks normal with no burn or hot spots. I'm thinking I've got a bad rectifier.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:48 AM
lildevil_66 lildevil_66 is offline
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Here's a chart to ohm out the rectifier/regulator and measurements for the stator. Be sure to check the keyswitch since the rectifier needs to see 12 volts from the battery through the key switch to work properly for charging.
On the small plug from stator to rectifier you should have approx.28VAC in order to get about 14VDC to charge the battery. You can unplug that connection and check the voltage without damage to the stator. If that is OK, slide the single connector back far enough to probe that contact for
14VDC or you can check it at the battery while at WOT. Sounds to me like the Keyswitch may be the problem since it is the only common component to both fuses. I think one fuse is 20A(run) and the other is 25A(charging). I just recently replaced my switch because the charging circuit was not working properly. Good luck. -CK
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:00 AM
greendave greendave is offline
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Thanks for the reply and diagrams Lildevil, they were very helpful. Not for nothing, I'm retired out of the automotive repair business (still have my Master Auto and Med Truck certs) so diagnosing electrical stuff isn't new to me. Went back and rechecked a few things. Charge coil output at full throttle was well over 28 volts ac. Again, no shorts to ground on the charge coil hot or cold. Unfortunately, the resistance checks on the rectifier weren't any good...... none of the values in the chart were valid. Even the new rectifier ohmed the same. (In fact, I've never seen a resistance chart for a rectifier that was valid, come to think of it)) Took the top cover off the motor and looked for chafing on the charge coil harness and found none. Took the switch panel off and checked the fuse connections and key switch connections by unplugging everything and visually inspecting... and found no burns or corroded connections. Btw, this mower NEVER gets used in the rain, and it is stored in an enclosed trailer. I DID see a slight discoloration in the connector on the wire from the rectifier on the key switch so I replaced that one female spade connector just in case. I doubt that it was an issue though. I finally bit the bullet and bought a new rectifier. After charging the battery I ran the mower for over a half hour with the blades running, at speed to be sure. No blown fuses. I'm going to call this thing fixed,,,,,,, tomorrow will be the real test as I'll be spending the day on the grass mowing. Thanks for all of you who responded, I appreciate it.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:01 AM
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LawnTamer LawnTamer is offline
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Just to bring up an old thread here. I had this exact same problem with my 19 hp Kawasaki. It also appears to the the regulator/rectifier. I just ordered one, but it appears that this fix worked for GreenDave, as there are no more posts.

So, if you are blowing fuses, I suggest checking out your regulator.
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  #7  
Old 06-18-2013, 05:46 AM
greendave greendave is offline
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My apologies for not updating this thread. The mower went a week and then started blowing fuses in rapid succession. Now that the issue was there consistently I was able to ohm out the charge coil and found it shorted out. I pulled the flywheel, and there, wedged in the windings was a bolt. On top of the block between the cylinders is a crankcase cover, held down by two bolts. Seems one had backed all the way out, got grabbed by the flywheel, flung around, and wedged in the coil, and caused an occasional short when vibration let the bolt move around. The other cover bolt was loose. THIS would also explain the ever growing oil leak the engine developed at the same time. I went to the hardware store, got an exact duplicate to replace the mangled bolt, cleaned it up, put it all together, and have not had a problem since.
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:21 PM
bicklebok bicklebok is offline
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Im going to revive this old thread because I read it several times when trying to troubleshoot my charging system. WHen I read this thread I thought, how lucky to find a loose bolt laying against the stator! I would never be so lucky. Well, after chasing wires looking for a short with no luck I was finally down to pulling the flywheel to look at the stator. I pulled the flywheel, and lucky me! There was a screw laying on top of the block laying against the stator.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:09 AM
greendave greendave is offline
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Was the bolt from the top cover, like mine?
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  #10  
Old 05-11-2014, 07:40 AM
bicklebok bicklebok is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendave View Post
Was the bolt from the top cover, like mine?
I really dont know where it came from. I didnt notice any screws missing when i pulled everything apart but the previous owner could have replaced the screw.

Runs great now! I see it is going to be very important to clean the cooling fins periodically. Mine were completely clogged with debris.
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