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  #11  
Old 04-28-2014, 12:06 PM
Best Value LC Best Value LC is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Boone, NC
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I'll try the belt dressing. I still need to try and straighten up the front pulley. I think that gap in between them is what's causing the major problems, since the belt only rides on the bottom of the groove, doesn't touch the sides of the pulley like it should.
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2014, 08:36 PM
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GrassIsGreenerLawnCare GrassIsGreenerLawnCare is offline
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I had a Proline 32 for a while, and it did the same. Trans made a weird noise on take off sometimes. And like you, we would have to give it a little push from a stop, to get her going like around trees, up little hills/etc.... even with properly tightened/new tranny belt!!

Unrelated but I just personally didn't like the "Tbar" style controls on it for tight spaces....would have been happier with pistol grips on it lol To be honest, even with the little quirks that I disliked, I really wish I hung onto it now!
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  #13  
Old 04-29-2014, 12:03 AM
herler herler is online now
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It's a real trick to get the proper tension on it, neither too tight nor too loose.

Unfortunately all newer cars have the serpentine belt, but to give you an idea it needs to be about as tight as the old-style alternator belt.
If it's groaning it's likely a little too loose, unfortunately too tight isn't good either...
Too tight it will wear out prematurely but it also puts stress on the needle bearings where the shaft of the back pulley goes into the transmission, not to mention the idler pulley (which isn't cheap either but it's far easier to replace than the transmission).

I usually stick a BIG long-handle flat-head screwdriver down through the hole in the back frame right behind the engine and carefully put the flat end of the tip against the flat portion of the idler pulley.
I say you have to be DANG careful or you'll dent the edges of that pulley.
But either with that screwdriver, which is the way I've gotten used to doing it.

There's also a way of getting tension with a crowbar from up underneath, but I never could quite get this one down good.

Either way, have a socket wrench with a 14mm socket on the bolt and then start to apply pressure with either the screwdriver or the crowbar... Feel the tension with one's fingers on the long stretch of the belt, and once it's about right, hold it, and tighten the nut.
It doesn't take a ton of pressure on the screwdriver to set that belt tightish, more like a steady hold.
I normally use a cheater bar on the end of that socket wrench as well.
Once I got it down so good I can swap that stupid belt in under 5 minutes nowadays, proper tension and all, don't even remove the Velke.
But it takes practice.

Last edited by herler; 04-29-2014 at 12:08 AM.
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  #14  
Old 04-29-2014, 12:36 AM
Best Value LC Best Value LC is offline
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Location: Boone, NC
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See, I can't manually tension mine. The only thing putting tension on it is that spring. There's no way to lock it down with a bolt or nut. But, I swapped the automotive belt that was on it today for a genuine Toro belt ($26 bucks vs $12 dollar automotive belt) and it fixed the problem, sure enough.
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