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  #21  
Old 06-06-2014, 11:27 AM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Billings, MT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
After seeding, apply Lesco 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer or Equivalent.

October 1st - Apply Lesco 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer or equivalent.

November 1st - Apply Lesco 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer or equivalent.

December 1st - Apply Lesco 21-0-21 "Winterizer" or equivalent.
What nutrient rates are you recommending to use with these fertilizer products?

In one of your previous posts, you say that the rule of thumb is 1 lb N/M. So, are you recommending that when seeding a cool season grass, 4 lbs N/M should be applied over 4 months, 4 lbs P2O5/M should be applied over 4 months, and 3 lbs K2O/M should be applied over 4 months?

Doesnít that sound a bit excessive?
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  #22  
Old 06-06-2014, 01:23 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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It's not excessive at all for new grass growth. It's a whole different ballgame when trying to grow grass from seed as the grass will go through the nutrients at a much faster rate when compared to an older, matured lawn.
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  #23  
Old 06-06-2014, 04:12 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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Those fertility rates are MUCH higher than any university recommendations I’ve seen. Most recs call for 0.5 to 1# N after emergence and 0.5 to 1# P (or to soil test) at planting or at emergence.

Using such a large amount of fert doesn’t make anything grow in better. It just delivers the same results and costs you more money.
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  #24  
Old 08-25-2014, 10:18 PM
macani macani is offline
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 12
Here are some pictures of my neighbors renovation this past week

1. We sprayed it with round up 3 weeks ago, killed everything
2. Used riding mower and dethatcher attachment to loosen some old grass/weed, then we raked/collected everything.
3. He decided to add 20 yards of topsoil
4. Seed/Starter Fert/ Water (pic of what seed we used)




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  #25  
Old 08-25-2014, 10:38 PM
macani macani is offline
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Join Date: May 2013
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Here are some pics of my overseeding

1) Have been cutting grass shorter recent weeks down to 1.5 inches
2) Rented Classen T 20
3) Went over my lawn 2 passes (diamond shape) (50 lbs of seed)
4) Starter Fert
5) Water


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  #26  
Old 08-25-2014, 11:19 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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It looks like you both are well on your way. Post pic's up every 10 days or so and try to take them from the same angles so that we'll have an easier time comparing the results. I'm liking that grass seed mixture that you are using. It's got a lot of Bluegrass, which is what most people want in their lawn. It takes a long time to fill in but the results will be worth it. You can expect that Ryegrass to come in within 7 to 10 days, the Creeping Red Fescue in about 14 to 21 days, and the Bluegrass to arrive in 21 to 28 days. Good luck!
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  #27  
Old 08-25-2014, 11:24 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macani View Post
Here are some close up pics of my grass. Is this some kind of a lawn disease or lack of watering ?

I haven't been on this site too much lately so I missed this post. In a lot of these pictures it appears like you may have been fighting Leaf Spot Fungus/Disease. I get it in my back yard and it melts out couple of areas every year (the same ones). I've applied Eagle fungicide to those areas and that helps but I may have to switch to a different fungicide such as Prophesy because it's mode of action is different. Look up some information on Leaf Spot, Dollar Spot, and Red Thread. All of these diseases are very common in manicured lawns. The telltale signs of Leaf spot include spotting on the grass blades (almost like polka dots of brown/black coloring). From there, it can melt out the blade, turning it yellow. It'll then decline until re-seeding is needed.
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  #28  
Old 08-26-2014, 08:11 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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http://www.columbiaseeds.com/images/Arc_2010.pdf
Arc is a big-seeded type of Kentucky bluegrass--which means it germinates quicker. A good advantage in overseeding and for landscaping use when conditions are not as ideal as on a sod farm.
But it says "Good" disease resistance--to me that is one step below "Excellent".
They claim "Nice density" so maybe it is not the best density of their varieties.

I like Palmer III, but like most ryegrasses, it is so vigorous, it may crowd out most of the slow starting bluegrass. Palmer V is a bit newer.
http://www.lacrosseseed.com/palmer-v...nial-ryegrass/

I am not saying it is bad seed--but--"Boreal" fine fescue is an inexpensive old-fashioned variety from the 70's.

Pardon me for being critical.

Keep in mind that dryness is a common problem in new seedings.
Keep in mind rust fungus is very common afflicting perennial ryegrass and some bluegrasses in the late summer and fall. Ryegrass from new seed is particularly susceptible to rust, in the fall.

http://buckeyeturf.osu.edu/index.php...ust&Itemid=170

Rust looks bad, but it is not serious, as it tends to disappear after frost in the fall.
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