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  #11  
Old 06-16-2014, 12:12 AM
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Ditta&Sons Ditta&Sons is offline
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cant you just put some gravel in the bottom of the pots like everyone else? And i hope youre not using real earth in a pot, and instead, using potting soil
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  #12  
Old 06-16-2014, 10:11 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Potting mixes either have too much sand or allow water to pass through without much holding capacity... I use finished compost here at home for outdoor pots, but they don't hold water that well either...
I've started with compost and clay based kitty litter in some other pots and will see if that helps...

It is good to know that Turface was fired to prevent or slow degradation... Reminds me of Terra Preta...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #13  
Old 06-28-2014, 12:15 PM
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lilmarvin4064 lilmarvin4064 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipster View Post
So, again, I'll ask: What is the purpose of this application?

It sounds like you've been drinking from the sales rep's Kool-Aid and you've been wowed by what he had to say, whether it made sense or not. I'm hearing a lot about how this will improve your drainage, then a few sentences later you guys talk about how it holds water. So it gets rid of water at the same time it holds water?

Perhaps it has some CEC, but do the math on how much o it you would need to move the needle on the total CEC in your rootzone. Do you have the money and the ability to apply 100+ pallets (not bags -- whole pallets) per 1000 sq ft and incorporate it?

It's a great thing to use for skinned areas on baseball fields, but I wouldn't try to use it as a soil amendment in lawns.

Axe, you can usually find pre-mixed potting soils that will do what you're looking for. IF you want to try to make your own, you could combine things like peat moss, sand, perlite, and vermiculite (among lots of others -- take your pick). I don't think that processed clays are going to produce what you want.
well, I guess Duke University, Michigan State University, Mississippi State University, Purdue University, Ohio State University, University of Missouri Turf Research Center, Washington State University, Syngenta, and NASA are all drinking the same Kool-Aid.

Yes, the larger pellet sizes will hold water AND drain. Its not that complicated. It will permanently improve any soil type. It will increase the water holding capacity in sandy soils, and will improve drainage and pore space in clay soils. It won't decompose like peat moss or compost. It won't swell and photodegrade like co-polymer gel. Its heavier than perlite and vermiculite but much less expensive and can replace both products. It does not float.

The maximum recommended application rate per 1000 sqft of turf for complete renovation is 1.25 pallets, not 100. is this a lot? sure. A progressive aproach is more common - aeration, topdress, drag.
For small areas with heavy clay soils it makes sense. Commerical sites where people are constantly walking across turf, where there should be a sidewalk but there isn't (shorcuts). I have seen work well there, and also in exessively damp areas with poor drainage where re-encroaching moss is a problem.
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  #14  
Old 06-28-2014, 01:52 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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I've been on faculty a two of those schools you've listed and I've given invited guest lectures on turfgrass soils at all but one of the schools you mentioned (Duke doesn't have a turfgrass science program). Neither I nor any of the faculty at any of those fine programs recommend Turface for anything other than the narrow and very specific uses I described.

Sorry that the research data and reality of the product have hurt your feelings. It's just a product. don't get your blood pressure up over it.
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