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  #1  
Old 07-14-2014, 10:45 PM
wolfetone wolfetone is offline
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Newbie-Summer Fertilizer Suggestion & Irrigation Time?

Hi all,

I am a newbie, looking for a nice green thick lawn.
I just bought a home on a 0.4 acre lot. The lawn was patchy in places and didn't look good after the New England winter, patchy bald areas, hard soil, bumpy!

In April I did a core aeration, top dressing with fertile topsoil, and overseeded the bald areas. I applied Lesco starter fertilizer to initiate the new grass.

Recently, I wasn't watering much, as I say im a newbie and trying to figure this out, but with the weather over the last two weeks the bald spots have reappeared and the garden is almost as bad as it was. A lot of the bald areas never took to the new seed, probably because I seeded a bit too late and didnt water enough....

So my question is, what is the best fertilizer I can use to feed my lawn and get it thick and green????

Also, how much time per station should I set my sprinklers to?

I am also planning a 3 weekly Jerry Baker summer lawn feed, ie beer can, detergent, ammonia, and corn oil/molasses...

Any thoughts or advice????

I had a colleague suggest Sustane, he didnt mention which one, good??
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2014, 07:45 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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The view of soil fertility is what you may want to rethink... the money involved of multiple applications of fertilizer for instant reults have driven the lawn industry to look at grass as something that will respond to the correct 'application' of one thing or another which is why these Jerry Baker things are actually taken seriously...
Soil fertility doesn't fluctuate much at all and your starter fert is probably still dissolving in the soil since you haven't had enough rain to use it up... more fert is not what your grass needs if water is lacking... keep the soil moist but not compacted with excess water and overseed again next month as the Summer cools into Fall...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2014, 07:49 AM
wolfetone wolfetone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
The view of soil fertility is what you may want to rethink... the money involved of multiple applications of fertilizer for instant reults have driven the lawn industry to look at grass as something that will respond to the correct 'application' of one thing or another which is why these Jerry Baker things are actually taken seriously...
Soil fertility doesn't fluctuate much at all and your starter fert is probably still dissolving in the soil since you haven't had enough rain to use it up... more fert is not what your grass needs if water is lacking... keep the soil moist but not compacted with excess water and overseed again next month as the Summer cools into Fall...
Any suggestions as to how much to set the sprinkler times to for grass? ie 10/15/18/20 mins??? And I was going to use cyclic so it comes on every 3 days

Thinking that's enough??
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:20 AM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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Here is some good info from UMass:https://extension.umass.edu/turf/man...hoots-vs-roots

As for irrigation; it's best to water deeply and infrequently. The idea is to get the soil wet down to the root system and then allow it time to dry out before watering again. Usually an inch of water is recommended for each watering. Every irrigation system is different. Measure yours by putting empty tuna cans on you lawn and time how long it takes to fill it up. How often you irrigate depends on soil type, sandy soil requires more frequent than clay soils. And my pet peeve is seeing irrigation during rainy days.
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2014, 01:58 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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Good advice above. I suggest reseed about mid-August, where needed. Weather conditions are favorable--soil is warm for quick germination, new weeds minimum (once you have raked out the normal summer crabgrass and weeds). Aeration is not suitable as soil preparation for seeding--loosen the soil with a heavy rake.
I suggest Lesco 24-0-11 fertilizer with 50 percent slow release, (at a minimum 30 percent of the nitrogen should be slow-release nitrogen).
As for irrigation, depends on the rain, heat levels, and--the inches per hour your system delivers. Every three days is not much, only about twice per week. Its regional. Around here, we put a coffee mug out on the lawn and stack quarters in it. Use as many as it takes to buy a cup of coffee in your town. Run the sprinklers until the quarters are covered. Run them three times per week. If you are stating new seed--plan on irrigation every day--half as many quarters.

Use top-quality blue and rye mixture. Good luck and let us know how you do. Pictures if you can.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 07-15-2014 at 02:02 PM. Reason: ps
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2014, 02:11 PM
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GreenI.A. GreenI.A. is offline
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The average lawn up here is going to require roughly 45minutes per zone every other day. But this can vary greatly depending on your particular soil, and even more on your specific irrigation system. I can instal the same identical system at two houses only a mile apart, and the irrigation times can differ by 40% simply because of a difference in water pressure.
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  #7  
Old 07-19-2014, 12:47 PM
wolfetone wolfetone is offline
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Any idea what this is?
Is it a grass or weed?

Will weed-B-Gone eliminate this stuff or does it require hand pulling each one????
ie is it a grass variant
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  #8  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:37 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetone View Post
Any suggestions as to how much to set the sprinkler times to for grass? ie 10/15/18/20 mins??? And I was going to use cyclic so it comes on every 3 days

Thinking that's enough??
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Irrigation should normally come on and be completed near the time of sunrise... Going out into your lawn and checking the soil for moisture is the best way by far to figure out what your soil needs in relation to your system...
As noted by others,,, there is no way to imagine a 'time' setting on the system itself...

If the water is not going deep into the root zone then you'll see that,,, when you inspect the soil after the water has had a chance to soak in...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #9  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:10 AM
wolfetone wolfetone is offline
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Any idea what this is? Its all over my lawn in the past week!

Can it be killed by weed-N-feed or by Weed-B-Gone, or does it have to be removed by hand?

Please let me know

Thanks guys
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:13 AM
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TPendagast TPendagast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetone View Post
Any idea what this is? Its all over my lawn in the past week!

Can it be killed by weed-N-feed or by Weed-B-Gone, or does it have to be removed by hand?

Please let me know

Thanks guys
well you could use a product called acclaim, but… I'm not sure non licensed people can get it.
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