Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 08-31-2014, 09:20 PM
Lawndered Lawndered is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Laidley Queensland
Posts: 2
Just adding so OP is sure.
Patriot is referring to the case as far as heating is concerned. Have read that 250f max on steel or heat can change monecula(?) composition. Pay to check alloys heating tolerances.

dieselss is spot on with freezing the part you are inserting, pretty sure a shop would use liquid nitrogen, but that may be for time constraint concerns.

This process is sometime used for putting bearing races (cups) into wheel hubs, where you freeze the race and heat the hub.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-31-2014, 09:23 PM
Lawndered Lawndered is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Laidley Queensland
Posts: 2
Sorry ...posting at the same time Dieselss!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-31-2014, 09:28 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Chesapeake beach
Posts: 5,420
I wouldn't heat aluminum
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-31-2014, 09:41 PM
PicturePerfectLawns PicturePerfectLawns is online now
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 1,402
I don't know what I was thinking. That's what the Kawasaki mechanic was telling me. He told me about the freezing the bushing and heading the housing. I'm going to check with the machine shop and see how much they want to press them in. If they want $50-$75+, I'm just going to try the freezing method. Now if they tell me $10-$20. then I'm going to have them press the bushings in there. I wish I would have known this freezing trick before-hand. Kicking myself in the butt for that one.
__________________
Trying Harder.....


John Deere 997 60" Diesel
Toro Grand-Stand 36"
Stihl Handhelds


Business: Solo Operated
Mechanic: Myself learning day by day.
Parts Supplier: ZeroTurnMan for everything.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-31-2014, 09:42 PM
dieselss dieselss is online now
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: highland in
Posts: 582
Heating aluminum to about 100-150 ain't bad
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 09-01-2014, 09:15 AM
Patriot Services's Avatar
Patriot Services Patriot Services is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tampa FL
Posts: 8,560
Make triple sure you have the right bushings and run a deburring scraper around the edge. Dress the bushing edge with cloth or stone as well. A microscopic burr can cause a hang up as well.
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-01-2014, 10:12 AM
larryinalabama larryinalabama is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ragland Al
Posts: 10,795
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiffyspark View Post
I wouldn't heat aluminum
Posted via Mobile Device
You could stick it under a hot water Fawcett for a few minutes, Ive done that with bunch of pistons.

As far as that bushing, take it to a machine shop and bring the crank. They usually charge me around 60 to install camshaft bearings on a V8 so expect to pay at least 30 to 40$.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 09-01-2014, 11:07 AM
Tcartwri Tcartwri is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 30
The oil in your crankcase runs at 200F...
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 09-01-2014, 11:13 AM
ricky86 ricky86 is offline
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monmouth Cty N.J.
Posts: 1,261
MolyLube will help after freezing. You replacing the crank also? There was a time period that KMC had a problems with the main journal finish. New bushings won't fix it. One word of caution, do not hammer them in. Use a press or make up a puller/pusher.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 09-01-2014, 11:42 AM
PicturePerfectLawns PicturePerfectLawns is online now
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 1,402
I appreciate all the feed back from you guys. Like I said, I'm going to try a machine shop down the road and see what they say. I'd rather have them just push them in with a press if they can do it the same day, I'm in a hurry now and need this machine up and going. If they want too much or can't do it the same day, I'll be trying the methods above. Ricky, I'm not going to change the crank. When I opened it up everything was close to spec, the crank didn't have much play in it at all despite the problems Kawasaki was having with the upper crank/block bushings in 05 when this one was built. All the bushings came in the kit, so I figure I might as well replace it all while it's apart. I'm not changing the crank or cam considering they were close. I'm replacing all of the following; case cover gasket, valve cover gasket, piston rings, block crank seal, block cover seal, intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, valve guide seals, flywheel key, governor shaft seal, breather gasket, carb. gasket, and crankshaft bushings. Also did the valves, cleaned the fuel tank and carb. before putting in the new gaskets, changing the air filter and fuel filter, will be breaking in with oil change at 10-30-50 hours and then switching to synthetic!
__________________
Trying Harder.....


John Deere 997 60" Diesel
Toro Grand-Stand 36"
Stihl Handhelds


Business: Solo Operated
Mechanic: Myself learning day by day.
Parts Supplier: ZeroTurnMan for everything.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:11 AM.

Page generated in 0.07581 seconds with 7 queries