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Old 09-10-2000, 05:19 PM
steveair steveair is offline
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Ok, been pretty quiet here for the last days so figured I'd ask a simple question.

What are you using for mallets on your paver jobs?

I prefer deadheads over rubber mallets and steel mallets. Been buying estwings, as they seem to hold up the best. They have a wood handle version (think 2 lbs) and a plastic head/handle (one piece construction) that I use to use, but found the wood hand version holds up just as long and is half the price.

Also, anyone have the 'paver persuader' from probst. Been a few jobs where it would of come in handy, but I hate to see the price on the thing. Looks handy to use on both pavers, and also for walloping wall block down to level for cap. I saw a plastic 'deadhead', long handled 8 lb sledge the other day that looked like it would of done the same thing, and it was only 15 bucks. Should of bought it just to try it out I guess.

steveair
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Old 09-10-2000, 05:45 PM
Lanelle Lanelle is offline
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What type of pavers are we talking about here--interlocking concrete or clay/brick pavers? Not much mallet work for the interlocking concrete ones. In fact industry experts recommend not using mallet setting because it can create such a tight fit that the flexibility of the interlock is lost.
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Old 09-10-2000, 06:01 PM
steveair steveair is offline
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Lanelle, concrete pavers.

As for what the experts say, I'll say this.

Any paver job I do, there are always 1 or 2 pavers/spots that are a little high/low after compaction. Now, if you think I am going to pull one paver out and take sand out from under it, then reset it instead of just wacking it a few times to level it out, the experts are nuts.

Also, I guess the mallet is needed for spots that the compactor just doesn't get, like against walls/steps, or in areas that a compactor can't be used, like in stair treads and what not.

steveair

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Old 09-10-2000, 06:10 PM
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Stonehenge Stonehenge is offline
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If I have to tamp inidividual pavers, I use a 8"x8" hand tamper. I do have uses for mallets, and use the rubber headed ones. Not fond of the 'persuader' - if you watch the Probst video, you can see it leaving black scuff marks on the faces of the pavers. If you want to tap the sides of the brick, a steel toe works great!
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Old 09-10-2000, 07:01 PM
paul paul is offline
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We got rid of our rubber hammer a long time ago, we do use a steel spade to straighten out a line of brick every now and then but hammers no!
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:00 AM
cuttingedgeland cuttingedgeland is offline
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We use an 18" heavy duty Tire Hammer which you can find in Gemplers catalog. It has a replaceable rubber head on one end and metal on the other side which adds some weight to it.
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Old 06-01-2004, 05:55 AM
stoneseller stoneseller is offline
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Try rawhide mallets. They are heavier than rubber mallets, about 4 lbs IIRC, and the rawhide striking ends are replacable. All my big paver customers buy them like crazy.
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:37 PM
neighborguy neighborguy is offline
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I just saw something on DIY Network show called Cool Tools. They highlighted a set of rubber hammer head covers that essentially convert any standard hammer into a rubber mallet by use of a head that fits over the hammer head. The product is called MalletHead. It is relatively inexpensive for a set of three different hardnesses. Just curious if anyone has tried it or not. I have used my fair share of normal rubber mallets and like everyone else is scared of the Probst Persuader pricing.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:49 PM
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Critical Care Critical Care is offline
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Hmm... Anyone use the Halder Simplex mallets? I picked one up with red (hard) and black (medium hard) inserts but haven't had a chance to use it, or hit anyone with it.
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