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Old 05-24-2004, 10:01 PM
gumby1 gumby1 is offline
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Location: Wisconsin
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Is one Hydro bad on my walker?

I have looked threw a bunch of postings about Walker Hydros. I have learned that I need to check my belt and pulleys and the tensioner spring. But I am not sure if this is going to help. My machine has trouble backing up a hill but one (the right one) wheel seems to be doing most of the work. The machine goes forward straight but turning left is harder than turning right. Another thing this problem only happens when the machine has been used for a bit and is warmed up. What do you think might be happening?
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:22 PM
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fixer67 fixer67 is offline
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I work in for a Walker dealer. First try changing the hydro-fluid. Remember to use only Mobil one 15w50 synthetic. I have a post on this site on how to do it.

http://lawnsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69075
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Last edited by fixer67; 05-24-2004 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:30 PM
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ksland ksland is offline
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I had the same problem. Take the hydro belt off and make sure the tensioner pulley without the spring attached moves with no resistance. Also there is a little heavier spring you can get. Mine did the same thing while mowing a pretty good hill and I thought I fried they pump but a new belt, disassembly of the tensioner (also drilled hole for zerk that older models didn't have) and a heavy spring and she was climbing again.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:32 PM
gumby1 gumby1 is offline
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Thanks for your help, I have already changed the fluid. did not help. My dealer says I need a new one. Big expence!!!! Can I get a rebuild kit and fix the one they take off for a spare? By the way this only a 2000 (year) model. I am going to search for your post on changing the hydro fluid maybe I am doing it wrong.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:33 PM
gumby1 gumby1 is offline
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KSLand, did yours have one wheel that pulled more than the other also? or did both hydros feel weak?
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:40 PM
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fixer67 fixer67 is offline
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Forget searching for it. Here is a copy


I work in a Walker Dealership. I do that on a regular bases. First thing there is no transmission as you know it. The drain plugs for the Hydro pumps is on the bottom. It is a 11/16 bolt looking thing. You must use Mobil One oil in the pumps. After you drain the pumps you will need to remove the cups on top of the pumps. Be real careful not to get any dirt in the pumps when you do so. You remove the cups bey unscrewing them from the pump. WARNING= the cups have left hand threads. At my shop we wash the cup assemblies is warm soapy water and let dry. When you refill the pumps do it with the cups off. After the pump are full replace the cups. DO NOT fill the cups up. If you look there is a fill line just a quarter inch from the bottom. This cup is really just an expansion tank. Now for the drive motors>the big cast iron thing the wheels are bolted to. That takes 90W gear oil and should be checked every 100 hours of use. There is a drain plug on some but we have never drain them. There is a fill plug just forward of the wheel. The plug is made for a 1/4" Allen wrench to remove it but when putting it back I always replace it with pipe plug. The Allen's have a bad habit of being too hard to get out as you may find out the hard way. The is an air bleed that if you open it it will make filling the drive motor a lot easier. The air bleed is on top of the drive motor. The one on the blower side is easy to see but the one on the right side is hidden under the circuit breaker. Now a Walker has more grease fittings than you want to thank about. It can take a full tube is it has not been greased lately. The PTO gear box needs checked as well, it takes 90W gear oil. The gear boxes on the deck need to be checked also>90W. Blade=Do not use a impact gun to put blades on with, Off-OK, On-NO. The blades must be set at 60 foot/pounds or the shear bolts will not do there job and you could be looking at rebuilding a deck. There is a good deal to these machines, more than I can tell you at one time. If you ask me
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:50 PM
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ksland ksland is offline
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One was weaker than the other, that is what made me think it was one bad hydro. If you search you can find my post here about it. I will look and post link.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:53 PM
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ksland ksland is offline
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My bad, sorry both were slipping not just one. Here is the thread. I always get the small details messed up.
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...r&pagenumber=2
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Old 06-06-2004, 06:23 PM
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shopbytch shopbytch is offline
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The Eaton 7 hydrostatic transmissions are very solid and should last as long as a diesel engine. We had a bad one fail from bad maintenance and when it goes you'll know it. Small engine shops are intimidated by these things and all we can do is replace the seals(only if you understand how clean hydraulics must be). Some hydraulic pump/motor rebuild places stock rebuilt ones at about half price, but you can take yours to a place that fixes fork lifts who can do it for under $300, if they've done one before it might take a week or upto two months.
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Old 06-06-2004, 06:33 PM
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shopbytch shopbytch is offline
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P.S. I forgot to mention- don't ever open one of these things unless you need some steel balls for your sling shot because even if you buy a new one it's worth rebuilding. Smart rebuilders can change the CW to a CCW for the other side.
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