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  #1  
Old 06-03-2004, 01:15 PM
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EZTarget EZTarget is offline
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Location: Lake Arlington, Texas
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organic control of fireants

got a customer who has fireant mounds all over his front yard. every time i leave there after mowing i feel like i just walked through a fire. i mentioned it in passing and he is more concerned about the kids and chemicals. i understand that but gosh i sure hope one of his 2 kids never play in his front yard. they will get tore up.

i read grits on one post but i just thought i would see if there were any other ideas i can toss this guys way.

thanks
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2004, 06:14 PM
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Garden Panzer Garden Panzer is offline
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Maybe NEMATODES...
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  #3  
Old 06-06-2004, 08:46 AM
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Mikes Lawn Landscape Mikes Lawn Landscape is offline
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Look for a Product with Spinosad as the active ingredient. It a combination of two bacteria that interfere with the ants metabolism or nervous system (Dont remember which)
Tex A&M research shows it to be very effective. Use the Texas Two Step method of treating entire property and individual mounds
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Old 06-06-2004, 01:46 PM
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Green Dreams Green Dreams is offline
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bait, bait and more bait. Bait this place weekly alternating products as much as you can. Would love to hear how it turns out for you...Thank your sister and let her know she is appreciated and in our prayers.....Drew
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2004, 03:30 PM
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Tharrell Tharrell is offline
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Years ago when I lived in Tampa some fire ants got into my boat when it was in the backyard. I went to the lawn and garden store and was shocked at the prices of fire ant killer. The guy suggested grits AROUND the mound. It has to be reapplied if you have rain or morning dew. It seemed to work. If you dump it thick ON the mound, it will be perceived as a threat and they will pour out of there and move the queen. American Cyanimid used to have a product for them also.
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2004, 09:15 PM
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Ric Ric is offline
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Ok I know you tree hugger types don't like to discuss Pesticides how ever look at the alliterative. Use only the BAIT part of the Texas Two Step and you will not use enough Active Ingredient of Pesticide to make a small difference.


Here is a copy & paste of a post I made in an other forum.

Texas A & M developed a Fire Ant Program called the "Texas Two Step" I have found it to be very successful. Sorry I don't have there website URL but you may find via search engine.

STEP #1 Ant baits are applied over the entire property to be treated. If the weather is between 70-90 degrees worker ants carry the bait back to the nest and into the food chain. If the weather is not between 70-90 degrees then the colony will be inactive. Monogyne colonies (single Queen) (reddish color) will be easier to control than Pologyne colonies (20-60 Queens)(orangish-brown color) and may require more treatment. It is important to remember that after mating Queens can fly 12 miles and their nests do not become visible for up to 3-4 months. Baits are effective during this time. Baits containing Hydramethylnon work in 1-5 weeks and kill all members of the colony. Baits containing Fenoxycarb or Abamectin stop egg production and take 5-10 weeks to kill all members of the colony.

STEP#2a Spot treat all visible mounds 2-3 days after appling bait and keep customer happy

Step# 2b Apply general insecticide treatment to stop forging ants and keep customer happy


It costs about $15.00 to treat an acre with baits. Studies have shown that early summer application give control for up to a year on treated areas over an acre. The larger the area treated the longer the control. Once control is gained it can be maintained with bait treatments every three months on smaller properties\0



Here is a thread from the pesticide forum worth reading about Fire Ants.
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...0&pagenumber=1BAIT
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2004, 08:54 AM
HazyDavy HazyDavy is offline
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I used the bait on my 2-3 active mounds late last week. It has rained since then and I have not seen any activity. I think it may have done the trick.
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