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  #11  
Old 01-13-2005, 09:30 AM
Oldtimer Oldtimer is offline
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You can get a helper to adjust the carb while you are cutting and get max power. You should have a tachometer to do this right.

The other way is to gently turn the high speed adjustment in (cw) until it stops, then 1 1/4 turns (ccw) to richen until the rpms start to drop.

Everyone who uses gasoline powered equipment to make a living should own a good tachometer. My preference is the tach sold by Stihl & Echo because it has a clip-on lead and a large screen.
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  #12  
Old 01-13-2005, 11:05 AM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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Why would you want to drill out the muffler, probably a bad move. Second get the right plug as spec'd by the manufacturer, this is very important in tuning and longevity issues. Base setting for most carbs are one turn out, tune from there, with throttle wide open turn high speed screw ccw until rpm's drop and then go back towards lean JUST a little. When you reach max rpm you have gone to far. You want it too rich with no load, then when under load it will lean out for max power. Once you have top end set turn low speed screw counter clockwise[first] for best throttle response. Best throttle response should be very near one turn out. If you have to go more than a little over 1/4 turn with your screws to get the saw to run you have another problem or need to rebuild carb or at least clean all circuits of carb.
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  #13  
Old 01-16-2005, 09:34 PM
Guthrie&Co Guthrie&Co is offline
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get the right plug for the saw, and run the correct fuel mixture. its more common than you would think. i.e say the saw calls for 50:1 and you just look for a "mix" can and pick up the 24:1 can. i would make sure i had the right fuel then i would venture over to the fuel screw.
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2005, 09:20 AM
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D Felix D Felix is offline
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dishboy- Have you ever heard of the Banks system for diesel engines? The whole premise behind the system is that the engine is basically an air pump; the more efficient the engine is at taking the air in, and putting the air out, the more power it has. That's why the holes were drilled in the muffler. Stock, the muffler on the Poulans are VERY restrictive. I noticed a LOT more power from the saw after opening up the muffler. LOT is relative, of course, for the brand of saw.

scaby- I am running the correct mixture. I've paid attention to that since day one.

I'm not a complete idiot when it comes to these things. I'm just no good at carb adjustment. Which is why I sent the saw with Dad last night; he's going to have the mechanic at his shop adjust the carb for me. For the time being, I've borrowed one of Dad's Jonsred's.

Thanks everyone!


Dan
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2005, 12:55 PM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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[QUOTE=D Felix]dishboy- Have you ever heard of the Banks system for diesel engines? The whole premise behind the system is that the engine is basically an air pump; the more efficient the engine is at taking the air in, and putting the air out, the more power it has. That's why the holes were drilled in the muffler. Stock, the muffler on the Poulans are VERY restrictive. I noticed a LOT more power from the saw after opening up the muffler. LOT is relative, of course, for the brand of saw.

You can get more HP by leaning out the A/F ratio also.......for about five minutes.
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2005, 04:19 PM
Oldtimer Oldtimer is offline
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You heard a lot more noise. Noise ain't power.
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2005, 06:12 PM
Guthrie&Co Guthrie&Co is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Felix
dishboy- Have you ever heard of the Banks system for diesel engines? The whole premise behind the system is that the engine is basically an air pump; the more efficient the engine is at taking the air in, and putting the air out, the more power it has. That's why the holes were drilled in the muffler. Stock, the muffler on the Poulans are VERY restrictive. I noticed a LOT more power from the saw after opening up the muffler. LOT is relative, of course, for the brand of saw.

scaby- I am running the correct mixture. I've paid attention to that since day one.

I'm not a complete idiot when it comes to these things. I'm just no good at carb adjustment. Which is why I sent the saw with Dad last night; he's going to have the mechanic at his shop adjust the carb for me. For the time being, I've borrowed one of Dad's Jonsred's.

Thanks everyone!




Dan
if i came across like i thought you were an idiot, it wasnt the intention.
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  #18  
Old 01-18-2005, 12:09 AM
P&C Lawn Care P&C Lawn Care is offline
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Not a big fan of the CJ8,6 plugs. Have you tried using an NGK plug? I switched years ago and have much better service from them. Get the correct size.
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2005, 07:41 AM
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GreenMonster GreenMonster is offline
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Dan,

Don't you think that firewood sucks!?!?

Sorry, I don't have much to offer. I just give the saw to the old man too, and tell him to fix it
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2005, 11:26 AM
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D Felix D Felix is offline
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Yeah, firewood sucks. I've been splitting by hand here recently, thankfully it's mostly been walnut that's dry and straight grained. Splits easily, but it's still a PITA. Our nieghbors had their woods logged out about 2 years ago, I've been using the Allis WD to drag out tops... Ever try splitting semi-dry elm by hand? If you are ever in the mood for an a$$-kicking, give it a shot!

scaby- no, you didn't come across that way. I was simply trying to make a point.

Oh, FWIW, the Jons that I borrowed from Dad needed the carb adjusted on it too. Plus the recoil spring broke, so I only had about 3-4 inches at the end of the pull to start the saw. Nothing like trying to keep track of 18" of recoil rope with the left hand, and with your right try to operate the throttle and keep the choke out about halfway..... Finally gave up on cutting after a while and started splitting. At least until the handle on the maul broke... I ended up borrowing the saw from work..... And getting a new handle. Still have to get the wood up onto the front porch yet.

Yeah, firewood sucks!


Dan
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