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Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by RhettMan, Nov 2, 2012.
seems cheap to me, i would rather source the point of attachment on the pipe and cap off there.
i am afraid the lateral may be under the house, though it was reportedly re routed.
the drain tile supposedly wasnt re routed however....?
trying to keep an open mind on it, as sometimes the client is dead-on, sometimes way-off.
plastic pipe finder too expensive? yall are paying 10,000 for central controls.....how much is a plastic pipe finder?
betcha if those voodoo sticks were up your ass you'd know it ..... says dad.
Yes, indeed! I've been on a ton of re-models where an addition or a deck was built (with no crawl) and locator's were worthless, even voodoo sticks. I had one where the deck had a dweeb hatch built to supposedly "get to the valves". Only problem was, you could not reach them. I always wondered if you could hire out-of-work circus people and lower them in.
well hey, tell me something, if i closed the vans, and power on the system, with an assumed 100+psi is this bad for the system components?
The first few leaks I found on this zone were exploded 1/2 cut-off nipples under caps from previous repairs I suppose, all uncut/full length, flemsy as heck-i assume?....
I really hope this pipe isnt under the crib, and that these deck screws back out easy and strip free.
What should i do if the break is in the middle of this new driveway....
perhaps not seen from the view, to the "right" side of that new concrete is a 5 foot dropoff, the drive being in-itself also a retaining wall... aside a comminity canal? perhaps
the meter is in the topleft
valve to left of steping stone path
controller on bottom right corner of house
the heads on that zone are in the turf on the small strip to the right of the original concrete.
so basically, the water flow "horse-shoes" the house
.....for all its worth in mentioning...
That is your first problem ..... assume nothing. Second .... ya think 100 PSI is too much.
With luck, you'll have wires along with the main and can locate the run. With REAL good luck, it'll be in a sleeve. I've sure seen a lot of breaks thanks to no sleeves, class 200 and crummy driveway contractors and no as-built.
I used to use the 10/32 ft to 1/2" IPT adapters with a cap to cap off heads and find leaks. The last time I used those was on a job where an ex navy guy said there was a leak on one zone because it took 30 seconds longer to come on. There was a leak on a crappy glue joint but after that still the same complaint. I think I would find where the valve is where the line runs ut to the last head and then look in between. Air would be a good option.